zd30 stalling randomly

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yeah, lift pump seems like a much better idea, at least you’d see a fuel leak

i’ll check the bottom o-ring and tank breather and if neither fix it i guess changing all the rubber fuel lines isn’t a bad idea.

with the clear lines though, i had only reallyyyy tiny bubbles on the inlet side and then a foamy stream on the outlet side, so i’m taking it that suggests a problem at the filter housing yeah?
o-ring or the actual water sensor
filter is the correct part nb, new ryco filter too. maybe the new primer housing is dodgy

the foamy stream is a massive air leak. it could simply be the housing is not machined flat and the filter seal isn't sealing. or the hose fittings, or the primer itself.
 
yeah, lift pump seems like a much better idea, at least you’d see a fuel leak

i’ll check the bottom o-ring and tank breather and if neither fix it i guess changing all the rubber fuel lines isn’t a bad idea.

with the clear lines though, i had only reallyyyy tiny bubbles on the inlet side and then a foamy stream on the outlet side, so i’m taking it that suggests a problem at the filter housing yeah?
o-ring or the actual water sensor
filter is the correct part nb, new ryco filter too. maybe the new primer housing is dodgy
More than one person in this thread in another forum saying non-genuine fuel filters caused problems similar to yours.
I avoid dealers whenever I can, have done my own vehicle servicing and repairs for the last 35 years and have always gone with Ryco, but am considering a move to Mann.
 
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so jumped under it today to suss this fuel tank breather and can’t for the life of me find the bloody thing. do you have to drop the tank to see it? or am i just being a bit special today? pretty frustrated so that might not be helping
(someone pls draw me an arrow on one of the pics?)

opened the fuel cap and it definitely sounds pressurised, which i thought was normal tbh but maybe not

been trying to buy another primer, second hand but genuine, with the water separator so hopefully one of these fixes the issue
 

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so jumped under it today to suss this fuel tank breather and can’t for the life of me find the bloody thing. do you have to drop the tank to see it? or am i just being a bit special today? pretty frustrated so that might not be helping
(someone pls draw me an arrow on one of the pics?)
Go to partsouq.com and type in your VIN number.
The parts diagrams will show you everything.
 
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the breather is one of the three pipes on top of the fuel tank. it runs into the engine bay on the firewall. drivers side if i recall correctly.
 
that website is great, will definitely be saving that for future reference, thank you

right, i was looking at the chassis rail directly next to the tank, makes a lot of sense to have the breather come up higher. will suss tomorrow.

latest update.
bought a second hand filter assembly, installed it and the primer is cooked, pumps forever and never gets solid. sweet.
and the water sensor has the wrong plug and also didn’t help anything with the clear lines. so that was a pointless activity

however! the aftermarket primer i bought had an o ring on the inside lip of the filter as well as the outside (both at the primer side) genuine doesn’t as far as i’m aware. i took that out and left just the outside one and reinstalled it and it seems less foamy.
then, i lifted up the filter and held it at 90deg and the air in the line disappeared
i’m so confused.

also, to check if it was a blocked breather (not sure if this would even work, but i think so) i had it running and opened the fuel cap, but that changed nothing. outlet side of primer was still foamy

vid won’t upload so pics attached of holding filter up, bit hard to see the foamy fuel in the first pic
 

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that website is great, will definitely be saving that for future reference, thank you

right, i was looking at the chassis rail directly next to the tank, makes a lot of sense to have the breather come up higher. will suss tomorrow.

latest update.
bought a second hand filter assembly, installed it and the primer is cooked, pumps forever and never gets solid. sweet.
and the water sensor has the wrong plug and also didn’t help anything with the clear lines. so that was a pointless activity

however! the aftermarket primer i bought had an o ring on the inside lip of the filter as well as the outside (both at the primer side) genuine doesn’t as far as i’m aware. i took that out and left just the outside one and reinstalled it and it seems less foamy.
then, i lifted up the filter and held it at 90deg and the air in the line disappeared
i’m so confused.

also, to check if it was a blocked breather (not sure if this would even work, but i think so) i had it running and opened the fuel cap, but that changed nothing. outlet side of primer was still foamy

vid won’t upload so pics attached of holding filter up, bit hard to see the foamy fuel in the first pic
Mate just buy a genuine Nissan primer filter assembly thing, pretty sure nizzbits.com.au stock them ([email protected]). Think my old one lasted to almost 400,000Km. Also for the pressurizing tank , carefully drill some tiny holes on the filler cap, that's what i did. Since all that no dramas. Also make sure your battery is healthy/strong these diesels do not start well on a sub par battery. Of course all that said still need solid fuel in lines no air so if you have to replace some hoses and clamps so be it. I doubt very much its your injector pump.
 
well, been busy with work and haven’t had time to do anything until today.
it’s been sitting for over a week, went to start it today and it wouldn’t start, but the clear hose was letting air in, fair enough. threw on some actual fuel hose and primed and it wouldn’t start but the battery was a bit slow. got my caddy in and jumped it and she fired up. good

had the second hand primer welded shut, bought a primer bulb and new fuel hose, drove to dads and changed everything over.
had clear hose with clamps on the outlet side and still getting bubbles, little bit better but they’re still there. took it off and tried to find the leak everywhere, put thread tape around the water sensor, put another o ring in the little tap, the entries into the filter assembly are that tight i can’t even get them off to put thread tape on so i’m gonna have to leave them. still got air in the line. but i’ve got it to a point now where there are only small bubbles that sit on the top of the hose, no major bubbles that would cause an airlock, i don’t think

anyway, an hour into doing all these little changes with little result, it’s there idling while we scratch our heads, and stalls.
cranks but doesn’t start. sweet.
checked codes again, 0701, ip cam sensor.
cleared the codes, let it sit for 10mins and it started again. idled for ages with no problems.

it’s sitting on almost empty so i drove to the servo, it stalled at the lights but started straight away. stopped, put $50 in and it wouldn’t start again. let it sit for a few mins, started and drove 10 mins home. turned off, it started straight back up, tried that 3 times all good. then it stalled. started again, and let it idle for about 20 mins with no hiccups.

started driving home and it stalled after 5 mins or so. wouldn’t start again. checked and no fault codes. 10mins to cool down and started again. drove around my suburb for 20 mins and didn’t skip a beat.

so now it’s back in the garage until i have time to diagnose it again.

i’m going to buy another fuel filter, maybeeeeee i have a bad one, not confident it will fix it but never know.
also been reading and think i’ve found a way to check the can bus communication between ecm and ip module, so gotta suss that, check all the grounds (they look fine, and all tight etc) and then if the problem is still there im stuck

my biggest issues. i bypassed the filter housing, so i had solid fuel line to the boat primer bulb, then clear hose back to solid fuel line, and it was solid fuel, no bubbles whatsoever. so obviously has something to do with the filter or housing. but bubbles are tiny and don’t look like they’d cause an air lock.

secondly. 0701 has not come back up since i cleared it. so not sure if that was just computers being silly, mixed with a battery on the flat side, so it’s on charge now to eliminate that.

just can’t justify a new ip, don’t have the time to even do it myself, nor do i
 

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