What oil's are you using ?

[Krankin]

I think you will find that grade is all full syn...some may be semi-syn...but they posses the right spec for your '22.

Shell, Penrite, Castrol, Mobil....take your pick.....i will recommend full syn tho.


give this a go.. http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/engine-oils/hpr/hpr_5_full_synthetic

 

[gazza414]

Folks just be mindful of the facts that are often missed when the term synthetic oil is used..here is a reasonably good overview of Synthetic oils from Wikipedia

hint--check pour point temp in the tech specs

Synthetic Base Stocks
Synthetic motor oils are man made oils from the following classes of lubricants:
Polyalphaolefin (PAO) = American Petroleum Institute (API) Group IV base oil
Synthetic esters, etc. = API Group V base oils (non-PAO synthetics, including diesters, polyolesters, alklylated napthlenes, alkyklated benzenes, etc.)
Hydrocracked/Hydroisomerized = API Group III base oils. Chevron, Shell, and other petrochemical companies developed processes involving catalytic conversion of feed stocks under pressure in the presence of hydrogen into high-quality mineral lubricating oil. In 2005, production of GTL (gas-to-liquid) Group III base stocks began, the best of which perform much like polyalphaolefin. Group III-base stocks are widely permitted to be marketed as synthetic motor oil with few exceptions where they are not allowed to be marketed as "synthetic" (for example, Germany).
[edit]Semi-synthetic oil
Semi-synthetic oils (also called 'synthetic blends') are blends of mineral oil with no more than 30% synthetic oil. Designed to have many of the benefits of synthetic oil without matching the cost of pure synthetic oil. Motul introduced the first semi-synthetic motor oil in 1966.[14]
Lubricants that have synthetic base stocks even lower 30%, high-performance additive packs consisting of esters can also be considered synthetic lubricants. In general, ratio of the synthetic base stock is used to define commodity codes among the customs declarations of tax purposes.
[edit]Other base stocks help semi-synthetic lubricants
Group II- and Group III-type base stocks help to formulate more economic-type semi-synthetic lubricants. Group I-, II-, II+-, and III-type mineral-base oil stocks are widely used in combination with additive packages, performance packages, and ester and/or Group IV polyalphaolefins in order to formulate semi-synthetic-based lubricants. Group III base oils are sometimes considered synthetic, but they are still classified as highest-top-level mineral-base stocks. A Synthetic or Synthesized material is one that is produced by combining or building individual units into a unified entry. Synthetic base stocks as described above are man-made and tailored to have a controlled molecular structure with predictable properties, unlike mineral base oils, which are complex mixtures of naturally occurring hydrocarbons.[15][16]

 

[Krankin]

and what about "Full Synthetic" oil?????

I still recommend full syn to be the top shelf choice for your eng...

remember one thing...the reliability of the info in Wiki.

 

[gazza414]

That's the comfort that people have from Wiki in knowing the info is vetted.. and does not come from broadbrush statements in forums.
the history and marketing of synthetic oils is interesting to say the least

 

[Krankin]

That's the comfort that people have from Wiki in knowing the info is vetted.. and does not come from broadbrush statements in forums.
the history and marketing of synthetic oils is interesting to say the least

yeah...as with every product shoved down our throats i spose.

 

[big.col]

anyone know the specs for oil for the 2.5ltr in d22. The owners manual only has a sae rating unless im blind... doesn't specify mineral synthetic any other quality's it should have

I used a 5W-30. Is this also acceptable?

 

[Krankin]

I used a 5W-30. Is this also acceptable?

it is....

personally i use and would recommend the 5W-40 in a full syn for your 2.5crtd

the 5W-30 is for the D40 with DPF.

 

[tweak'e]

it is....

personally i use and would recommend the 5W-40 in a full syn for your 2.5crtd

the 5W-30 is for the D40 with DPF.

just to correct that...

5w-30 or 5w-40 has nothing to do with DPF. its all about how hot the oil gets.
if your in a hotter state/country use the 40 and cooler places use the 30.
if your a lead foot driver you might want to go a thicker oil. if it gets really cold at night you may want to go thinner W ie to a 0w-30.
DPF fitted vehicles use DPF friendly oil regardless of viscosity.

 

[Krankin]

unless it just changed.... 5W-40 oil is not to suit a DPF on a D40 navara...maybe only that 'enviro' stuff not sure...
yes i fully understand the temp issues and its not about that that i refer to...

show me for exampl a Shell 5W-40 oil suited for DPF D40's...


yes even penrite......"automatic models are fitted with a DPF and must use ENVIRO+ 5W-40".

 

[Krankin]

just to correct that...

5w-30 or 5w-40 has nothing to do with DPF. its all about how hot the oil gets.
if your in a hotter state/country use the 40 and cooler places use the 30.
if your a lead foot driver you might want to go a thicker oil. if it gets really cold at night you may want to go thinner W ie to a 0w-30.
DPF fitted vehicles use DPF friendly oil regardless of viscosity.

and as in the D22 manual..... doesnt recommend a 0W......
for below -20 DegC temps..a 5W-30 is stated,
tho i still use the 5W-40 full syn as my min grade as we dont get those temps

 

[tweak'e]

a 0w oil wouldn't hurt it. its just unnecessary unless its cold enough. after a few minutes of driving the engine is warm enough that the W spec becomes meaning less.

most diesel engine oil here is 15w-40. i've been using 5w-40 in my other 4x4 and it goes so much better on cold mornings.

 

[Krankin]

a 0w oil wouldn't hurt it. its just unnecessary unless its cold enough. after a few minutes of driving the engine is warm enough that the W spec becomes meaning less.

most diesel engine oil here is 15w-40. i've been using 5w-40 in my other 4x4 and it goes so much better on cold mornings.

...



yeah....... Ilike the castrol RX Super ..full of zinc, and a good all round grade

but i think with these small td euro engines, they need the the higher spec/$ low vis grades.

 

[gazza414]

yeah...as with every product shoved down our throats i spose.

Wiki, is not shoving anything down anyone's throat--its simply providing the facts and data for people to make an informed decision.

It is the companies marginalising the facts....its very difficult when you see at times "synthetic" oil for as low as high $30 to nearly $100 for 4litres

you've gotta ask why ?

 

[Krankin]

Wiki, is not shoving anything down anyone's throat--its simply providing the facts and data for people to make an informed decision.

It is the companies marginalising the facts....its very difficult when you see at times "synthetic" oil for as low as high $30 to nearly $100 for 4litres

you've gotta ask why ?

that comment was about companies shoving **** down our throats....not wiki.


yes agree about the price diff's...just have to wade through the ***** and not get fooled.

 

[gazza414]

spot on Krankin

 

[big.col]

As far as I can make out through a ton research- 5w-30 is fine for newer diesel engines and cold mornings. If your cargo increases or you decide to drive across a desert or put your vehicle under higher stress, then a higher viscosity oil would be the go, maybe a 10w-40 or 15w-50? Its all really confusing, I dont think any of these oils would be necessarily "incorrect" though. Picking the most appropriate oil just depends on the climate and driving conditions. Correct me if im wrong.

 

[tweak'e]

........ Picking the most appropriate oil just depends on the climate and driving conditions.

exactly that.

5w-30 is fine for newer diesel engines and cold mornings. If your cargo increases or you decide to drive across a desert or put your vehicle under higher stress, then a higher viscosity oil would be the go, maybe a 10w-40 or 15w-50?

correct. tho i just want to make one point clear. a thicker oil than 5w-30 could be 5w-40 or (if they make it) 5w-50. its the hot temp rating that changes depending on driving condition's.

 

[dezzdash]

Guys i just changed to caltex havoline delo 400 15w 40-multigrade.

This oil seems to be most highly rated/ best reviews for the td d40 within this sticky as well as most picked oil to use. (in my opinion).

After much discussion and research i found out that my d40 manual didnt have a dpf but my mechanic was running caltex fully synthetic c3 which is 5w 30 oil and specifically for tds with dpf! Also c3 is less thicker meaning more wear on engine if exposed to wrong elements/conditions or decisions (lead foots disease )
Generally 5w 30 is for more modern, faster running engines/ newer technology e.g. New higher powered stx 550 or 140kw ST.


Since its last service 9,000ks ago the c3 oil had turned really black and engine was sounding very rough at mid range.

I took alot of time picking this next oil as i had changed for myself for the first time ever and wanted to get the oil choice right.

Since putting in the delo 400 i have noticed a very smooth engine (will now change every 5,00-7500), no joke a STACK more power (smooth controlled power through the mid to top end) my engine sounds louder but purring nice and again, smoothly. Also i noticed my clutch a bit smoother as well as transmission. Curious to see how economy goes )
This oil has made a huge difference to my drive!

I picked up a 20l drum from caltex on mamre rd in sydney near st marys heading out to elizabeth dr for $120. Pretty happy as i can use in my bikes aswell but have heard it being $90 in some places. Have asked for a quote on 60l drum.

All in all very very happy with my first oil change! Given its a thicker oil i can give the ute a little more of a workout but will remember to ease into driving on cold starts. And of course the turbo cooling down after a drive.

Hope this has helped people with their choice on oil! Now time to focus on the 3x common filters and few other oil replacements there after.

Dezz

 

[user 10312]

The Oil Dilemma

Done the first oil change at 5000K's as I was not happy about going 10,000 with the original oil. Used Nulon diesel formula 5~30 full synthetic, a C3 CF oil, low saps...

When I had the first book service done, it was not at a Nissan dealer. I brought a genuine filter and 10liters of Penrite HPR 5, this is a Semi synthetic 5~30/40 it says "Extra 10" on the container and so called full zinc. This is a C-I rated oil. The mechanic doing service who has had a lot of experience did use it but said it was probably not the best idea and said I really should be using a full synthetic oil.

Now it was my understanding that a full synthetic oil would provide better protection but also my understanding the higher the letter the better the grade of oil was. Interesting that of the oils I have checked out the full synthetics are only CF oils and semi synthetic CI oils.

I have noticed the engine is slightly quieter with the Penrite HPR5 but there is no difference in driving, if anything the fuel consumption was slightly better with the Nulon. It is a manual with no DPF.

Any thoughts?

 

[dezzdash]

Nulon fully synthetic 10w 40 was my 2nd choice. May try that after this 20l drum has finished to compare the 2.

Personally i dont think the c3 5w 30 oils suit the non dpf vehicles. If its got a dpf, stick 5w 30 fully synthetic. If it doesnt have dpf go for a thicker oil maybe 10w 50 in a nulon/caltex brand, stilly fully synthetic.

And obvioustly do your own research for your own situation. Im in city/ highway drives most of time not much 4x4 but i do load her up often. Someone in country victoria will need a different oul/filter/ suspension, a whole different navara really.

But i do rate the delo very high like most in this thread!

Dezz