If you'd like, we can hook up the adapter and have a look at your rail pressures again, I don't have a problem with that at all. Just let me know when you have some time.
unexplained loss of power
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Beergutz
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No worries Tony, i will give you a call when ive got time to scratch myself. Congrats on the Admin too mate, well deserved.
maulbeagle
Member
Similar issues here
I bought a brand new Navara a few months ago, 2.5 TD manual, after about 3000 ks on the clock it started pulsing (engine revs dropping to almost stalling, then recovering). It was doing this both while idling and under load. After 3 days of troubleshooting the Nissan dealer replaced the SCV, told me I was lucky to get it under warranty and sent me on my way.
Now on the weekend (around 7000 kms on the clock now) it went into limp mode (or whatever it's called). No fault lights, but wouldn't rev above about 2500 rpm and had no power. Eventually I turned it off and back on then it seemed OK. Haven't driven it since.
Are the dealers able to do anything about this, or is there some kind of law for returning 'lemons' ? I want to be rid of this car before the warranty expires !
Thanks very much.
I bought a brand new Navara a few months ago, 2.5 TD manual, after about 3000 ks on the clock it started pulsing (engine revs dropping to almost stalling, then recovering). It was doing this both while idling and under load. After 3 days of troubleshooting the Nissan dealer replaced the SCV, told me I was lucky to get it under warranty and sent me on my way.
Now on the weekend (around 7000 kms on the clock now) it went into limp mode (or whatever it's called). No fault lights, but wouldn't rev above about 2500 rpm and had no power. Eventually I turned it off and back on then it seemed OK. Haven't driven it since.
Are the dealers able to do anything about this, or is there some kind of law for returning 'lemons' ? I want to be rid of this car before the warranty expires !
Thanks very much.
Surely the SCV hasn't gone again? Try loosening the fuel cap and see if it repeats the problem.
Likely to be, yep. Rail pressures are a wee bit higher than with petrol. That changes the ball game. Also, since the fuels have different qualities (diesel is oily) the pumps are different.
maulbeagle
Member
What does the SCV actually do ? Is it right that dealer's claim they aren't covered under warranty ?
Chris C
Member
Update on my POS D40:
I gave Nissan a spray on their facebook page regarding this issue, I was called on my mobile 2 days later to talk about it.
Bloke on phone from Nissan customer service was understanding, but just kept telling me to take my car to my local dealer and allow them to "have a look" at it, even though there is nothing to look at, he suggested maybe I was not used to how a diesel felt to drive, I told him I have done about 2 million km in all types of Diesel powered vehicles and am a diesel mechanic with over 25 years in the trade, OK, maybe you do know how a diesel drives.
I told him it was a work car, how it does about 1000km per week and I cannot take it off the road for a few days for dealer to play with as it is my toolbox, local dealers dont open service or spares on the weekend, mmmmm, no answer.
It is to the point where I only drive to and from work, I dont use it over the weekend, which is a real pain as I bought it (replaced single cab cruiser) so I could take wife and sons bike riding etc on weekend, we bought a bike rack and use the Prado now.
So I have a $43,000. ute which I wont let my son or wife drive, dont use over the weekends, really dont enjoy driving anymore as I am tired of not being sure when it is going to tr and kill me next, and Nissan offer no solution.
My nephew has the exact same car, under 5000km, bought brand new, doing the same thing, has been to dealer several times with no joy, he is going to run his through the Auctions and get out of it before it kills him, it goes into limp and nearly every drive.
I have a Michelle tray and ARB bullbar sitting in my shed, I could not be bothered to fit as I dont want to keep it, drove a new Ranger, was nice, but the less than useless salesman never called back, I think I will buy a 200 series tojo and chop into a twin cab, only 15k for chop job, and toyota reliability for free.
Mine does it regardless of fuel level, though more often when low, have tried leaving fuel cap loose, just makes a mess, I doubt the EPA would be keen if they new nissan were telling people to drive wit a fuel cap loose, as the customer service guy told me to do.
I just dont like this thing any more, I was in love when I first got it, so smooth, comfortable, good on fuel, but now I HATE driving it. wish I had bought the F250 I was going to buy.
They seem to sell ok on carsales, I bought mine for under $43k, claimed the GST back (about $3600) so it owes me about $38500. happy to drop a few K, after Christmas I think I will try a local auction house and see how I go.
I will buy an old Hilux or rodeo until I find a low K 200 GXL or F250. budget is about $95K.
Will be my LAST EVER NISSAN, of any kind, EVER.
I gave Nissan a spray on their facebook page regarding this issue, I was called on my mobile 2 days later to talk about it.
Bloke on phone from Nissan customer service was understanding, but just kept telling me to take my car to my local dealer and allow them to "have a look" at it, even though there is nothing to look at, he suggested maybe I was not used to how a diesel felt to drive, I told him I have done about 2 million km in all types of Diesel powered vehicles and am a diesel mechanic with over 25 years in the trade, OK, maybe you do know how a diesel drives.
I told him it was a work car, how it does about 1000km per week and I cannot take it off the road for a few days for dealer to play with as it is my toolbox, local dealers dont open service or spares on the weekend, mmmmm, no answer.
It is to the point where I only drive to and from work, I dont use it over the weekend, which is a real pain as I bought it (replaced single cab cruiser) so I could take wife and sons bike riding etc on weekend, we bought a bike rack and use the Prado now.
So I have a $43,000. ute which I wont let my son or wife drive, dont use over the weekends, really dont enjoy driving anymore as I am tired of not being sure when it is going to tr and kill me next, and Nissan offer no solution.
My nephew has the exact same car, under 5000km, bought brand new, doing the same thing, has been to dealer several times with no joy, he is going to run his through the Auctions and get out of it before it kills him, it goes into limp and nearly every drive.
I have a Michelle tray and ARB bullbar sitting in my shed, I could not be bothered to fit as I dont want to keep it, drove a new Ranger, was nice, but the less than useless salesman never called back, I think I will buy a 200 series tojo and chop into a twin cab, only 15k for chop job, and toyota reliability for free.
Mine does it regardless of fuel level, though more often when low, have tried leaving fuel cap loose, just makes a mess, I doubt the EPA would be keen if they new nissan were telling people to drive wit a fuel cap loose, as the customer service guy told me to do.
I just dont like this thing any more, I was in love when I first got it, so smooth, comfortable, good on fuel, but now I HATE driving it. wish I had bought the F250 I was going to buy.
They seem to sell ok on carsales, I bought mine for under $43k, claimed the GST back (about $3600) so it owes me about $38500. happy to drop a few K, after Christmas I think I will try a local auction house and see how I go.
I will buy an old Hilux or rodeo until I find a low K 200 GXL or F250. budget is about $95K.
Will be my LAST EVER NISSAN, of any kind, EVER.
Bvandermaat
Member
It is sad that with so many D40s having this issue that Nissan still have not worked it out.
You would think this would have been a major recall point that they would have addressed.
You would think this would have been a major recall point that they would have addressed.
Some people have had their SCV - Suction Control Valve - replaced and this has fixed the problem.
If it's happening to you, try loosening your fuel cap and see if that stops it from happening. I'm not sure if it is the solution, and I'm not sure if the fuel cap is related to the SCV but it certainly looks that way and eventually we'll know.
If it's happening to you, try loosening your fuel cap and see if that stops it from happening. I'm not sure if it is the solution, and I'm not sure if the fuel cap is related to the SCV but it certainly looks that way and eventually we'll know.
Yeah tried the fuel cap fix, and there was no pressure release.. will see 2moro if it makes a difference.. but i doubt it somehow. Only happened once and waited two minutes before re-starting it was fine, for now.
Going to the Stealer wednesday and with the info from this thread hopefully get something fixed.
Cheers...
Going to the Stealer wednesday and with the info from this thread hopefully get something fixed.
Cheers...
There's not supposed to be a pressure release, there wasn't with Mark's ute but driving around with the cap undone relieved the symptoms.
oj0213
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hi , i have the same problem but upon reading by the consult the error TCboost sensor/circ appeared , dealer said it will take time for them to trace all wiring since the error shows circuit,I have replaced the boost solenoid to no effect, i will also request checking of the vacuum pump and hoses it feels like the turbo is not spooling and it takes so much time to shift gears(A/T) but the reading on the boost gauge is spiking to 1.5-1.8 bar at 3k rpm but with no pulling power
serge has adviced me to also check the grounding points of the truck but all seems in order
this problem started when i had a fuel leak issue, under warranty they replaced the spill tube of injector #4 and oil seal also the Pcv, this solved the leak but now it has not regained its power like before, truck is very sluggish but not having any smoke black or white
any advice ?
thanks
serge has adviced me to also check the grounding points of the truck but all seems in order
this problem started when i had a fuel leak issue, under warranty they replaced the spill tube of injector #4 and oil seal also the Pcv, this solved the leak but now it has not regained its power like before, truck is very sluggish but not having any smoke black or white
any advice ?
thanks
Do you have a separate boost gauge? There is a boost sensor on the intercooler, and if it's faulty the ECU won't see the boost rise and will undoubtedly assume that something is wrong with the turbocharger, since the boost sensor is its only means of determining that it IS working.
I am not sure if the boost sensor is affected by oil (from blow-by) but that's where I'd go looking, before looking at much more expensive or extensive solutions. While you're into working on the sensors, get some electrical contact cleaner and spritz your MAFS too. The Mass Air Flow Sensor (in the pipe just outside the air filter box) measures air flow in grams/sec and air temperature. It uses this and the boost pressure sensor data to work out how much air is available for the combustion chamber, so it can work out the best amount of fuel to inject by varying the fuel rail pressure.
Have you blocked your EGR?
I am not sure if the boost sensor is affected by oil (from blow-by) but that's where I'd go looking, before looking at much more expensive or extensive solutions. While you're into working on the sensors, get some electrical contact cleaner and spritz your MAFS too. The Mass Air Flow Sensor (in the pipe just outside the air filter box) measures air flow in grams/sec and air temperature. It uses this and the boost pressure sensor data to work out how much air is available for the combustion chamber, so it can work out the best amount of fuel to inject by varying the fuel rail pressure.
Have you blocked your EGR?
oj0213
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thanks for the inputs , yes i have a separate boost gauge , i have sprayed all contact points of much all sensor terminals i have, i have replaced the boost solenoid from a donor still no response, the next step will be replacing the MAF sensor on the intercooler, upon test driving last week end the boost is now not rising it can't even reach .05 bar now running at 3k rpm, its very noticable that the turbo is not spooling coz i can't hear it now but still no white smoke coming out, only mod left on my hood is the the K&N apollo CIS intake, all harness from the chip and aluminum pipes and SS pipes for the intake were removed
also i have noticed my fuel consumption have gone up
i have also blocked my EGR
also i have noticed my fuel consumption have gone up
i have also blocked my EGR
Non-spooling or reluctant spooling of the turbo could be the actuator in a newer model or the vacuum lines in an older model.
The stock MAFS is just outside your air filter and has to be on the uncharged side of the turbocharger. The sensor on your intercooler is the boost sensor, which as far as I am aware only measures pressure not temperature, so the temperature is figured by reference since it'll be fairly linear to the MAFS temp reading and the amount of boost. You have to remove the MAFS and spray electrical contact cleaner inside it, to clean the sensor itself. Sadly it does attract some dirt and that affects its ability to read both flow and temperature which it needs to with at least some degree of accuracy.
Just musing here ... if the MAFS was placed on the charged side of the turbo, it would be reading similar flow rate to before, but the temperature will be 150C or more above what it should be since it expects the MAFS to be pre-boost. It may then calculate that the charge air temp is somewhere in excess of 400C which is stupidly high and stop the boost.
Can you confirm where your MAFS actually is?
We should expect that our fuel consumption will rise with no boost from the turbo, since it'll run like a poorly tuned NA engine. It should be completely gutless, in fact.
If your separate boost gauge reads something, what value for boost does the ECU have at that same time? Eg if the boost gauge is reading 1 bar (14.7psi), what does the ECU say? If there's a difference here, it points straight at a faulty boost sensor which is on the intercooler.
The stock MAFS is just outside your air filter and has to be on the uncharged side of the turbocharger. The sensor on your intercooler is the boost sensor, which as far as I am aware only measures pressure not temperature, so the temperature is figured by reference since it'll be fairly linear to the MAFS temp reading and the amount of boost. You have to remove the MAFS and spray electrical contact cleaner inside it, to clean the sensor itself. Sadly it does attract some dirt and that affects its ability to read both flow and temperature which it needs to with at least some degree of accuracy.
Just musing here ... if the MAFS was placed on the charged side of the turbo, it would be reading similar flow rate to before, but the temperature will be 150C or more above what it should be since it expects the MAFS to be pre-boost. It may then calculate that the charge air temp is somewhere in excess of 400C which is stupidly high and stop the boost.
Can you confirm where your MAFS actually is?
We should expect that our fuel consumption will rise with no boost from the turbo, since it'll run like a poorly tuned NA engine. It should be completely gutless, in fact.
If your separate boost gauge reads something, what value for boost does the ECU have at that same time? Eg if the boost gauge is reading 1 bar (14.7psi), what does the ECU say? If there's a difference here, it points straight at a faulty boost sensor which is on the intercooler.
oj0213
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yes already did spraying on the MAFS, it is the one attached to the PVC pipe just after my air intake, right? ( just double checking
) previously the boost is spiking up to 2 bars which is high but drops back easily because of the boost controller from my chip but its very difficult to reach 100kph on rolling i also have have a separate EGT gauge a digital one that comes with the CHIP IT, this problem started when i had a fuel leak, the dealer has replaced the spilltube on injector # 4 as well as the gaskets and also replaced my PCV which i have shimmed, leak has been resolved but the power loss still there, upon consult error code was PO238, TC boost sensor/circ dealer is telling there might be a signal circuit shorted from the MAF to power or damaged PCM ?? does this make sense mate? a lad from Uk suggested that somehow if this error code appear that I have a faulty turbomy truck is still under warranty so i hope everything that will be replaced would be at no cost so now I need for them to check everything and replace any parts needed, thanks for the info mate, all i need now is some list of items for me to have check out
thanks, much appreciated
Ok let's look at that error code. P1141/1340 of EC.pdf in the D40 manual gives us this:
This error you're getting could just be that boost sensor. Use a multimeter with the black lead connected to the body or battery negative (not the ECM). Get to the ECM , start the car and at idle touch the red lead of the multimeter to pin 52. You should get between 2.1V and 2.4V. Error 0238 indicates an excessively high input to the ECM (I'd guess over 5V). The power supply to the sensor is pin 64 on the ECM, which should read 5.3V.
If pin 64 reads HIGHER than 5.3V it might be the ECM that's at fault. If pin 64 is correct, and you're seeing over 2.4V on pin 53 at idle, the sensor itself is faulty or the harness has shorted.
It could be a faulty MAFS but if it were, you'd have trouble like our friend BossHog whose MAFS died on a trip from Adelaide to Sydney. Limp mode engaged, the Check Engine Light on full-time and there was little he could do except limp to a Nissan dealer and fork $400.
This error you're getting could just be that boost sensor. Use a multimeter with the black lead connected to the body or battery negative (not the ECM). Get to the ECM , start the car and at idle touch the red lead of the multimeter to pin 52. You should get between 2.1V and 2.4V. Error 0238 indicates an excessively high input to the ECM (I'd guess over 5V). The power supply to the sensor is pin 64 on the ECM, which should read 5.3V.
If pin 64 reads HIGHER than 5.3V it might be the ECM that's at fault. If pin 64 is correct, and you're seeing over 2.4V on pin 53 at idle, the sensor itself is faulty or the harness has shorted.
