Ive had a issue occur with my car, i already have a dpf delete pipe installed and i purchased a 3” straight through pipe. Long story short i installed the new 3” exhaust to replace my old system. I had unplugged all the sensors and hoses feeding the old delete pipe went to take the car for a ride for a test (whilst the sensors and hoses going to old delete pipe were unplugged and just hanging) and noticed that something was not right. I was told to take out the new system Because if i were to run the car long enough without those sensors plugged in i would run into codes or issues. So i installed my old system with delete pipe back in and all of a sudden now my car is not running the same it was before i started all this work and it seems that the turbo is failing and not doing its job as before. Havnt been able to drive the car for 3 days now as i dont want to do any damage, i thought that by putting my old system back in the way it was befor my car would go back to how it was before, but no. I seem to believe that the issue lies between when i decided to take the car for a drive with the new exhaust while the dpf sensors and hoses were just hanging out doing nothing. Does anyone have any suggestions on how i can fix this issue as im pulling my hair out at the moment!
Turbo failing after replacing exhaust, HELP!
- Thread starter Joesh
- Start date
Help Support Nissan Navara Forum:
Okay Joesh, first things first.
Calm down, it's going to be ok.
Now, let's go over a few things. Changing the exhaust from the back of the CAT/dump pipe is not going to destroy your turbocharger unless you clanged the turbo with a 5kg mallet to loosen a bolt. It's entirely possible that you've triggered the car's limp mode (protecting itself) or the turbocharger control system has a fault. Both are highly possible, the turbo control system in the D40 is excellent when it's working but it's fragile. Shit me to tears so much I've removed mine, I use a Tilix valve to control the turbo. But that might not work for you if you have a later model that uses an electronic actuator.
So we do need to know what kind of D40 (year model) you have. If you're not sure, just look at the top of the turbocharger - is there a black rubber hose going to a round thing attached to the turbo? If so, it's vacuum controlled and the BCS or the vac hose may have failed. Neither issue is terminal, if it's just the vac hose, it'll cost you $15 for 3 metres of 3mm hose at Supercheap Auto (maybe the price is a little higher since I did that two-ish years ago). If it's the BCS, you have a choice: new BCS or Tilix/Dawes valve. Both valves remove a bit of the response rate of the turbo but neither will fail as often.
You still need to fix the DPF issue. Unless you can get the ECU reprogrammed to remove the DPF routine (and reset the DPF while they're at it), the sensors that you have may still be causing the system to throw an error (with or without a DPF light or a Check Engine Light). You'll find yourself limited to about 2,000rpm and about 80km/h top speed except on really steep hills. Takeoff will be really slow, Shopriders will do the quarter mile better. Been there!
How I fixed mine: I wrote to auggie on this forum (send him a PM). For $500 he sent me two sensors to place in the DPF which fixed the problem in a couple of minutes' of driving and I've never had a problem since. That was some time ago - I don't know if he's had to put his prices up since then, but write to him and ask. He is the man to talk to about DPFs.
Calm down, it's going to be ok.
Now, let's go over a few things. Changing the exhaust from the back of the CAT/dump pipe is not going to destroy your turbocharger unless you clanged the turbo with a 5kg mallet to loosen a bolt. It's entirely possible that you've triggered the car's limp mode (protecting itself) or the turbocharger control system has a fault. Both are highly possible, the turbo control system in the D40 is excellent when it's working but it's fragile. Shit me to tears so much I've removed mine, I use a Tilix valve to control the turbo. But that might not work for you if you have a later model that uses an electronic actuator.
So we do need to know what kind of D40 (year model) you have. If you're not sure, just look at the top of the turbocharger - is there a black rubber hose going to a round thing attached to the turbo? If so, it's vacuum controlled and the BCS or the vac hose may have failed. Neither issue is terminal, if it's just the vac hose, it'll cost you $15 for 3 metres of 3mm hose at Supercheap Auto (maybe the price is a little higher since I did that two-ish years ago). If it's the BCS, you have a choice: new BCS or Tilix/Dawes valve. Both valves remove a bit of the response rate of the turbo but neither will fail as often.
You still need to fix the DPF issue. Unless you can get the ECU reprogrammed to remove the DPF routine (and reset the DPF while they're at it), the sensors that you have may still be causing the system to throw an error (with or without a DPF light or a Check Engine Light). You'll find yourself limited to about 2,000rpm and about 80km/h top speed except on really steep hills. Takeoff will be really slow, Shopriders will do the quarter mile better. Been there!
How I fixed mine: I wrote to auggie on this forum (send him a PM). For $500 he sent me two sensors to place in the DPF which fixed the problem in a couple of minutes' of driving and I've never had a problem since. That was some time ago - I don't know if he's had to put his prices up since then, but write to him and ask. He is the man to talk to about DPFs.
