Relacing zd injector pump looking for a second opinion

[Been a while]

They go to this yellow part..

 

[Been a while]

Has anyone else seen this? Is this the heat cycling issue they have?

 

[tweak'e]

Has anyone else seen this? Is this the heat cycling issue they have?

its not an issue i've seen before.
those wires i think are for the timing valve on the side of the pump.

the heat cycling issue they have is actually inside the ecu on top of the pump.

 

[Been a while]

Does anyone know what i have done here? See how the teeth are not aligning!

 

[Been a while]

its not an issue i've seen before.
those wires i think are for the timing valve on the side of the pump.

the heat cycling issue they have is actually inside the ecu on top of the pump.

The insulation just falls apart ! The ecu, Ever seen one replaced?

 

[tweak'e]

Does anyone know what i have done here? See how the teeth are not aligning!

nothing you can do about it.
hopefully you locked it with the bolt. what your looking at is the sizzor gear. its basically has a spring loaded gear to take up the slack and cushion the blow when the injection pump fires.

i would just leave it be.

 

[tweak'e]

The insulation just falls apart ! The ecu, Ever seen one replaced?

not in person. seen plenty of photos including guys who do DIY repairs on them.
when one of ours was done they replaced the ecu at the same time. the injection guys have a rebuild kit.

looks like you will need a new timing solenoid. injection guys will sort all that.

 

[Been a while]

nothing you can do about it.
hopefully you locked it with the bolt. what your looking at is the sizzor gear. its basically has a spring loaded gear to take up the slack and cushion the blow when the injection pump fires.

i would just leave it be.

Yup bolts in! So the gear that came off the pump will slide back in between that gap ... ha i was just re thinking pulling the gear cover, i just need her back on the road..

 

[Been a while]

not in person. seen plenty of photos including guys who do DIY repairs on them.
when one of ours was done they replaced the ecu at the same time. the injection guys have a rebuild kit.

looks like you will need a new timing solenoid. injection guys will sort all that.

So get this one rubuilt you think? Not a change over?

 

[tweak'e]

So get this one rubuilt you think? Not a change over?

speak with the injection guys.

 

[Rumpig]

The lower outside wire is where you tap in aftermarket chips (dp Tunit),and controls the spill valve for more fuel. The other pair are for the timing solenoid.

Google PSG16 repair, there are some Euro companies that can fix them. I have seen complete spill valves on ebay but don't know about compatability for different vp44s

 

[Been a while]

speak with the injection guys.

Posted it off today! Waiting for quote now.....

 

[Been a while]

The lower outside wire is where you tap in aftermarket chips (dp Tunit),and controls the spill valve for more fuel. The other pair are for the timing solenoid.

Google PSG16 repair, there are some Euro companies that can fix them. I have seen complete spill valves on ebay but don't know about compatability for different vp44s

Ahh ok, thanks for that.. ever seen one do that before?

 

[tweak'e]

the cables that are damaged are not the spill valve, its the timing solenoid.
the spill valve is on the center of the injector lines and the timing is the yellow solenoid.

 

[Been a while]

the cables that are damaged are not the spill valve, its the timing solenoid.
the spill valve is on the center of the injector lines and the timing is the yellow solenoid.

I hope it's the reason it kept throwing the crank sensor code...

 

[tweak'e]

I hope it's the reason it kept throwing the crank sensor code...

possibly. the crank sensor is checked against the pump timing sensor. also if its was shorting it could make enough interference to upset the crank signal.

 

[Been a while]

possibly. the crank sensor is checked against the pump timing sensor. also if its was shorting it could make enough interference to upset the crank signal.

I'll lose it if it's not... I've spent many hours on this rig...

 

[Boogieboots]

Without meaning to sound selfish, it will be a great lesson for everyone else mate hehe. I know you have been at this for a while now and many thanks for the comprehensive outline of your repair. That is the idea of these forums as you have mentioned before ����

 

[Been a while]

Without meaning to sound selfish, it will be a great lesson for everyone else mate hehe. I know you have been at this for a while now and many thanks for the comprehensive outline of your repair. That is the idea of these forums as you have mentioned before ����

Ha bugger everyone else lol i want my ute back lol it's killing me.. no your right, if it makes the next blokes job easier, then I'm all in... the time off the road has been good for all thise little things i wasn't getting to do..
Put a fuel cooler in, new bigger flow pick up pump and mounts, re positioned fuel rank filler "finally", rust treated and painted the chassis, fixed front diff oil weep, replaced starter motor and alternator, cleaned earths, replaced ecm under dash, new crank sensor, body deadner under gaurds, rust treat and coloured radiator support panel, changed all fluids and did a compete brake overhaul just a days before she stopped grrr.. just waiting on parts and the pump to come back now... still fiddling with things too lol it never stops!

 

[Been a while]

Fuel cooler and filler fabrication, farm fabrication that is lol back to the ol' pop rivet !