Hello, I have a 05 navara D22 and when starting it I have to let the glow plug light turn off, turn the key back one click, turn the key again to let the glow plug light turn off again before starting it else the trucks engine management light comes on and it’s stuck in limp mode. Been like this for a few years now and no one has been able to get to the bottom of it. Any suggestions?
Glow plug light
- Thread starter Mia1904
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have you check for error codes? if engine light stays on then there should be a code stored.
have you checked the glow plugs?
also i see your in the UK so i guess you have the early yd25 engine.
have you checked the glow plugs?
also i see your in the UK so i guess you have the early yd25 engine.
Yes it says fuel pump module fault, but after speaking to someone who repairs them he said it wouldn’t just come and go if it was that. 99% sure. So it could be something related or throws up the same fault code.
No to glow plugs as yet need to get them checked.
I think it is a yd25
an 2005 d22 should be zd30 diesel. edit: your uk so it should be early yd25 with the same pump as the zd30.
need the exact fault code. the pumps ecu module can come and go when it heats up and cools down.
but it pays to make sure its that because a pump rebuild is not cheap.
need the exact fault code. the pumps ecu module can come and go when it heats up and cools down.
but it pays to make sure its that because a pump rebuild is not cheap.
If it is a pump module issue, why does turning the key twice whether the vehicle is hot or cold prevent the engine management light come on?
not sure. start with the actual code. you can pull that up yourself which can be better as many code reader don't work correctly on theses (as its nissan consult not obd2)
the key thing, could be a bad connection on the ecu board (known issue) and it warming up a bit makes it connect, ditto with the mosfet that typical fails.
or it could be something like a bad earth or power connection and the glows drop the voltage to much.
the key thing, could be a bad connection on the ecu board (known issue) and it warming up a bit makes it connect, ditto with the mosfet that typical fails.
or it could be something like a bad earth or power connection and the glows drop the voltage to much.
The thing with the key i have it to from time to time especially when engine is cold. I check glow plugs i have 1,3 ohm measure mounted on engine which is ok. if you take them out will be round about 1 ohm or less (according with technical book, new has aprox 0,8 ohm). I change ignition switch but still problems. I start measure when i have this problem and in did there is a drop of voltage. Starting engine is rotating slow then usually and you don t have rpm to start.
Now i have to open the start engine to clean it in case there is graphite dust on collector and engine start in shortcut or brushes are ware out.
last theory is that fuel pump pressure escape when car is not on use...... i have friends who mount one way valve on fuel pump.
I will let you know the result after i have time to extract end open the start engine.
i have to mention that i don t have the engine light on. is only starting on second key from time to time or sometime is not doing nothing on first key. May be you have two problems.
Hello,
The problem with the key is resolved; it was the positive wire between the electrical start switch key and the starter engine. There was a bad contact between this wire and the starter engine.
Now, I don't have rotate the key two or more times to start the engine.
Other issue with the dropping voltage at the start was indeed the starter engine brushes; two of the four were worn out.
I cleaned and changed the brushes and the starter engine bearings, and all symptoms completely disappeared.
I have included pictures of the brush support and the pin where the wire was not properly connected (the wire connector had wear).
If you look at the attached documentation, on page 14 you will find the start sequence, and on the last pages, you will find the wires and connectors, their positions, and numbers.
I have measured and studied for one week, and in one day, I fixed the problems.
The problem with the key is resolved; it was the positive wire between the electrical start switch key and the starter engine. There was a bad contact between this wire and the starter engine.
Now, I don't have rotate the key two or more times to start the engine.
Other issue with the dropping voltage at the start was indeed the starter engine brushes; two of the four were worn out.
I cleaned and changed the brushes and the starter engine bearings, and all symptoms completely disappeared.
I have included pictures of the brush support and the pin where the wire was not properly connected (the wire connector had wear).
If you look at the attached documentation, on page 14 you will find the start sequence, and on the last pages, you will find the wires and connectors, their positions, and numbers.
I have measured and studied for one week, and in one day, I fixed the problems.
