Recovery points

[dirtdevil]

Those ones are front recovery points, I've got a set here. They bolt into pre-existing threaded holes in the chassis on the D22.

We've been talking about rear recovery points though...

I need both rear and forward (thought I had the front covered with the factory ones but apparently not). Where are these holes on the chassis exactly? I have a 2012 str if that makes any difference.

 

[Dungee]

I'll be fitting these tomorrow, will post photo's and details.

 

[dirtdevil]

I'll be fitting these tomorrow, will post photo's and details.

Cheers mate, much appreciated.

 

[pointblank5]

Actually I think they do change the vector direction force is applied even if they don't change the amount of the force.

With a tow hitch the force to the pin is applied only to 2 points of the pin at the edges of the pin across the thickness of the tow bar mount plus the thickness of the inserted recovery block and that force is 'metal under compression' (which is less damaging).

Without a tow hitch and slipping the pin from the tow bar through the snatch strap (not using the tow ball that's dangerous) there are is force at on the pin at the edges as above but with a thinner contact point (higher force over a smaller area which is potentially more damaging) but more importantly there is also force in the middle of the pin where the snatch strap is attached and that is a bending force (which is more damaging).

I have seen pins bent doing recoveries using just the pin to the point where the pin is difficult to remove although I've yet to see on give way catastrophically like tow balls can.

If I've made it too complicated to understand above think of a plank standing on 2 ladders, the strongest point is above each ladder and the weakest point is in the middle... then hang a weight from the plank in the middle. That weight is your snatch strap in this scenario.

The block OTOH adds a brace to the ladder system increasing rigidity and strength.

Now you might argue that using the pin isn't going to kill someone (and it ain't)... but I don't want a bent pin coz I can't use my tow hitch with it later!

Just cut a piece of thick walled pipe, 50mm long so it fits inside the tow receiver and the pin slides through it. have the snatch strap over this piece of pipe...
evens out the load distribution and takes advantage of the pins shear strength (what its designed for)

ive given myself an idea lol gonna have to do this

James

 

[dirtdevil]

I'll be fitting these tomorrow, will post photo's and details.

I jumped under the car and found the threaded holes. What size high tensile bolts do you use? looks about 12mm diameter, how about length? Do you need to use a washer?

 

[nakedape]

I jumped under the car and found the threaded holes. What size high tensile bolts do you use? looks about 12mm diameter, how about length? Do you need to use a washer?

From memory M12 x 1.25. As for length, well that's where memory fails.

Use one flat & one spring washer with each bolt!

 

[scottybobcat]

Have you looked at the sliders and bars thread. The rear bar we do has 2 recovery points incorperated into bar irons and front recovery points we should have done in a couple of weeks as well

 

[tommy222220_0]

Re-inforce factory tie down points. 75x75x10 angle does the trick (2x M12x1.25x40mm long to captive nut in bottom chassis)

 

[dirtdevil]

Have you looked at the sliders and bars thread. The rear bar we do has 2 recovery points incorperated into bar irons and front recovery points we should have done in a couple of weeks as well

Thanks for pointing that thread out. What are you charging for the front points?

 

[Old.Tony]

Just cut a piece of thick walled pipe, 50mm long so it fits inside the tow receiver and the pin slides through it. have the snatch strap over this piece of pipe...
evens out the load distribution and takes advantage of the pins shear strength (what its designed for)

ive given myself an idea lol gonna have to do this

James

I'd be worried about the pipe bending around the pin. There's a substantial force being applied to it. Let us know how this goes!

 

[pointblank5]

well youd probly wanna use 5mm wall pipe or thicker if u can get it in that small OD.

so u mean like squashing vertically? cos i dont think it could bend any other way without the pin bending also.

the pipe would actually just give the effect of having a thicker pin, except for where it goes thru the hitch at either end...

 

[joshman]

well youd probly wanna use 5mm wall pipe or thicker if u can get it in that small OD.

so u mean like squashing vertically? cos i dont think it could bend any other way without the pin bending also.

the pipe would actually just give the effect of having a thicker pin, except for where it goes thru the hitch at either end...

i think he means that the pipe will squash, making it super difficult to get the pin out after an event.

ditch the pipe and just use the pin...

or buy a proper hitch reciever block.

 

[pointblank5]

yeah i usually just use the pin... just thinking out loud with the pipe idea...
i dont think the pipe would squash ay, most of the force will be transferred horizontally... some of the force will be transfered vertically to try and close the eye of the strap (squashing the pipe) but this portion would not be great IMO...

 

[dirtdevil]

OK Guys,
Just ordered these
http://www.fnb4wd.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1289
Theyre like the ones a few of you recommended. When they arrive I will get the High tensile bolts and washers and should be right to go??? Is that correct?

 

[tweak'e]

just be aware that any shackle (and the load point itself) will be a bullet if it rips out of the chassis. one of the reasons i prefer hooks. you can hook a strap straight on. also tommys one is quiet good as it reinforces the connection.
with light chassis like this you should use a load spreader and backing plate.

 

[nakedape]

OK Guys,
Just ordered these
http://www.fnb4wd.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1289
Theyre like the ones a few of you recommended. When they arrive I will get the High tensile bolts and washers and should be right to go??? Is that correct?

Yep, mount them up & you'll be right. That is after you've gone off and learnt, from a professional or experienced and trustworthy friend, how to perform recoveries safely. Till then, view them as fashion accessories!

 

[dirtdevil]

Rightio, so it turns out it is hard to find a M12 bolt with a 1.25 pitch to fit the captive nuts. Anyone who has found these please tell me where you got them.

 

[Old.Tony]

I bought the special HT bolts (8.8) for my winch from a local bolt supply place (Specialised Wholesale & Plastics (02) 4952 4544). If you don't have any place like that nearby you could give these guys a call and see if they deliver.

 

[Dungee]

OK, heres the bits you need to do the front recovery points, 4 x 30mm long M12 x 1.25 high tensile bolts and spring washers, some grease to make sure you can get them back off at a later date and a 12 x 1.25 tap (optional) there was a fair bit of gumpf in the threads and this car was two weeks old. You could run a small hack saw cut down the end of the bolt, that will help clean out the thread if you don't have the tap.

 

[Dungee]

My new Jap built 2012 Navara has this brace in the chassis that gets in the way of the recovery point - arrow in the pick points to it.

Rather than grind the chassis off I ground a notch in the recovery point, the left one needed more grinding. Theres plenty of metal there and I don't think it will weaken the recovery point enough to worry about.