Recovery points

[dirtdevil]

Hi guys,

Is the only option for a rear recovery point on a 2012 STR to install a towbar?

For forwards recovery, there appear to be 2 tow points at the front of the chassis straight out of the factory. Is it safe to use those for snatching? I can take some photos tomorrow if you dont know what Im talking about.

What are some good towbars? what sort of money would I be looking at?

Thanks

 

[Old.Tony]

I'd like to see photos, but would want some idea of scale. Generally the front hooks on the cars are used to make sure they don't slide off the raft while they're being shipped to Australia. They are not suitable for snatching from but if you don't like the guy that's doing the snatching feel free to use them because they make GREAT missiles.

As for the rear, I don't know - we had a tow hitch installed on ours which took care of rear recovery points, as long as you have one of these in your recovery kit...

 

[scooba_285]

the front points your talking about look pretty damn solid, havent tried it as i have a bullbar which has the bracket bolt on thise points, snatching off the bullbar points is ok when using an equaliser strap so my guess would be its ok to do with a equaliser strap also

 

[d22dave]

Mate have a look at the TJM rear step towbar, it will give your tub some protection aswell, there's a few blokes on here with them

 

[scubasteve]

I dont think tjm make the rear step bar for the new navs because they have a longer tub. I looked at one for my 2011 and they told me they only make the rear bar for up to 2008. Apprently its in development. Arb make a rear bar thats similar but i personally arent a fan

 

[dirtdevil]

Photos

OK so here are some photos of the factory points. Safe or Not?

Also what do I have to look out for when getting a towbar?

 

[nakedape]

OK so here are some photos of the factory points. Safe or Not?

Also what do I have to look out for when getting a towbar?

No - they're those missiles Old.Tony is talking about!

There are real recovery points available that bolt directly to the chasis (~$100 pair). There is also plenty of chatter on here about what's best etc - the search engine is your friend.

 

[nakedape]

... as long as you have one of these in your recovery kit...

I know your a fan of these Tony - but I just don't get why they are necessary. To be specific, I don't understand how they change the loading of the pin in the hitch receiver. The usual argument is that they spread the load more evenly - but carefully set up snatch straps should do the same thing? And regardless, the real load bearing is done on the same two points where pin contacts HR?

Over to you...

 

[dirtdevil]

No - they're those missiles Old.Tony is talking about!

There are real recovery points available that bolt directly to the chasis (~$100 pair). There is also plenty of chatter on here about what's best etc - the search engine is your friend.

Are there holes in the chassis to fit these recovery points? Can you recommend where to get them from?

 

[tweak'e]

OK so here are some photos of the factory points. Safe or Not?

thats not a tow point. its a tiedown point ie for when your on a boat or trailer.
you can be towed from that, preferably using a bridle.
for snatching you really want to use a hook.

depending on club rules in different areas, many will not allow you to use them. you must have rated hooks.

 

[terryc]

Are there holes in the chassis to fit these recovery points? Can you recommend where to get them from?

Yes, and no.

The search engine is a marvellous thing up there on the right hand side of the forum. Use Advanced search and select either general or your model(otherwise you'll get too much stuff) and search for answers first.
Seriously there are a number of threads on recovery hooks and one in particular about mounting recovery hooks to the front chassis holes. It is complete with many pictures to show you different treatments.
Here tis ;

http://www.navara.asia/showthread.php?t=8606

There is also this thread
http://www.navara.asia/showthread.php?t=9452

There is also this thread as to why tie down points are not recovery points.
http://www.navara.asia/showthread.php?t=4906

 

[scooba_285]

I know your a fan of these Tony - but I just don't get why they are necessary. To be specific, I don't understand how they change the loading of the pin in the hitch receiver. The usual argument is that they spread the load more evenly - but carefully set up snatch straps should do the same thing? And regardless, the real load bearing is done on the same two points where pin contacts HR?

Over to you...

they dont change the load at all, their not meant to, its there to be used instead of the towball which will be a missile

 

[nakedape]

Are there holes in the chassis to fit these recovery points? Can you recommend where to get them from?

http://www.quicksales.com.au/ad/outback-recovery-tow-points-nissan-navara-d22/2033303

These bolt straight up. Some don't like 'em, preferring hooks. I got a set & they're fine.

BUT BE CAREFUL - snatching is a bit of a dark art whereby the dangers/ risks rise exponentially with the degree of stuckness (an actual measurement).

 

[Geoff3DMN]

they dont change the load at all, their not meant to, its there to be used instead of the towball which will be a missile

Actually I think they do change the vector direction force is applied even if they don't change the amount of the force.

With a tow hitch the force to the pin is applied only to 2 points of the pin at the edges of the pin across the thickness of the tow bar mount plus the thickness of the inserted recovery block and that force is 'metal under compression' (which is less damaging).

Without a tow hitch and slipping the pin from the tow bar through the snatch strap (not using the tow ball that's dangerous) there are is force at on the pin at the edges as above but with a thinner contact point (higher force over a smaller area which is potentially more damaging) but more importantly there is also force in the middle of the pin where the snatch strap is attached and that is a bending force (which is more damaging).

I have seen pins bent doing recoveries using just the pin to the point where the pin is difficult to remove although I've yet to see on give way catastrophically like tow balls can.

If I've made it too complicated to understand above think of a plank standing on 2 ladders, the strongest point is above each ladder and the weakest point is in the middle... then hang a weight from the plank in the middle. That weight is your snatch strap in this scenario.

The block OTOH adds a brace to the ladder system increasing rigidity and strength.

Now you might argue that using the pin isn't going to kill someone (and it ain't)... but I don't want a bent pin coz I can't use my tow hitch with it later!

 

[Old.Tony]

I know your a fan of these Tony - but I just don't get why they are necessary. To be specific, I don't understand how they change the loading of the pin in the hitch receiver. The usual argument is that they spread the load more evenly - but carefully set up snatch straps should do the same thing? And regardless, the real load bearing is done on the same two points where pin contacts HR?

Over to you...

The difference is that the pins are strong under shear forces but not under bending forces.

A snatch strap with the pin placed through it in the hitch receiver will produce most of the force on the centre of the pin. This is exacerbated by the flexible nature of the material being used.

The hitch receiver doesn't flex. It's not so much that the force is spread across the hitch receiver pictured above - it's the force applied on the pin at the gap between the receiver and the wall that the pin passes through.

The difference becomes a choice: risk that the shear forces involved can actually SHEAR that pin - which is very, very unlikely - or have the pin bend in the channel, which is not only highly likely but has happened to my pin from using a weight distribution hitch! Mine has not reached the point where I can't extract it, but it could foreseeably bend more and be stuck in the frame, or bend and snap under high loads, releasing the strap.

For $40 I'd take the safer and more convenient path.

 

[luke91]

I went 4x4in on the weekend and also with a hitch receiver you can keep the snatch on and put in in the tub. Saves ya from gettin a wet arse.

 

[Dungee]

I got some recovery points from these guy's last week - http://www.fnb4wd.com.au/index.htm service was stellar, email responses straight away, goods shipped same day etc. Couldn't rate them higher. No I don't work there....
See the pic here -

 

[nakedape]

Thanks for the explanation,
But...

The difference becomes a choice: risk that the shear forces involved can actually SHEAR that pin - which is very, very unlikely -

This was my thinking - it looks like it has potential to shear. Unlikely, as you say, to shear completely, but it may deform and be a bigger pain to extract.

... or have the pin bend in the channel,

At which point I would have to reconsider the snatch itself - trying to do too much/ poor technique (not saying your technique is poor, just saying). And I'd have thought that would be a good indicator to back off a bit.

Also, the same forces that bend the pins have to go somewhere when using the insert (conservation of energy, second law of thermodynamics and all...).

Someone should do some maths for us - any engineers out there with some spare time? I'm prepared to change my opinion given reason to!

 

[dirtdevil]

I got some recovery points from these guy's last week - http://www.fnb4wd.com.au/index.htm service was stellar, email responses straight away, goods shipped same day etc. Couldn't rate them higher. No I don't work there....
See the pic here -

They look good. How are you going to install them?

 

[Geoff3DMN]

They look good. How are you going to install them?

Those ones are front recovery points, I've got a set here. They bolt into pre-existing threaded holes in the chassis on the D22.

We've been talking about rear recovery points though...