newby first post

[Piglet]

ladies and Gentlemen,
I have a 2012 build, 2014 complianced STX-550 that i bought from the local dealer in December 2014.
the ute had been the sales managers car and had 2500km on it when I bought it. it also had a locally built steel tray in place of the tub, ARB bar, front and sides, with steps 18"alloys and IPF driving lights on it when I bought it. Oh, and a Nissan Tow Bar. Other than that, it is stock.
I am on my third intercooler having the first replaced at 40,000 km and the second at 80,000km, recently had the 120,000 service and my intercooler is OK. touch wood. I put about 1200km on it over the last week with 2, 500km drives. Today, it decided to do the limp home mode on 2 occasions abut half an hour apart. Both times there were no dash lights to give me any hints and So I have joined "on the Bot" to see if I can figure out what the hell is going on.
I am a bit annoyed that I cant buy a genuine workshop manual for my Ute from Nissan, or anyone else, as I had one for my old Patrol and It paid for itself dozens of times over.
From having a look at some of the posts here, I am beginning to think the Exhaust pressure sensor is on the way out or cooked completely.
I have had the last 2 services done away from the dealer and have been told by the mechanic that it looks like there is a DPF in the exhaust but that it is an empty box with nothing in the way of connections. Is this Just mine or is it a thing with this model.
Looking forward to learning a lot and contributing where and when I can.

 

[Old.Tony]

If it has a DPF that's been hollowed out, you'll know when those sensors fail - your ute will start blowing clouds of white(ish) smoke. Easy fix for that is to get replacement sensors from auggie (a user here).

As for the exact symptoms described, it's not a bad idea to see if the ECU is storing any codes that might give us a hint. Odd limp modes are often the result of an SCV that's got a little tarnish and may be resolved by simply using some injector cleaner.

Can you check for codes? Bluetooth OBD adapters allow you to do that with your phone and an app like "Torque".

 

[Piglet]

Thanks for the info Old Tony, I have bought an OBD2 machine, device, whatever it's called but working nights has stopped me from firing it up yet. I have noticed also though that the cruise control can be switched on but will not set at any speed. Maybe connected, maybe coincidence.
hope to get a look at the ECU tomorrow.
The DPF has apparently got places for sensors but no sensors, also, there have never been any lights come up on the dash on start up that relate to the DPF. I don't know if this is just mine or if other STX 550s are the same.

 

[KevinE]

Like Tony said, I'd check for codes with your OBD2 reader. I'd add to also check that all fuses & the brake light globes are good.

 

[Old.Tony]

Thanks for the info Old Tony, I have bought an OBD2 machine, device, whatever it's called but working nights has stopped me from firing it up yet. I have noticed also though that the cruise control can be switched on but will not set at any speed. Maybe connected, maybe coincidence.
hope to get a look at the ECU tomorrow.
The DPF has apparently got places for sensors but no sensors, also, there have never been any lights come up on the dash on start up that relate to the DPF. I don't know if this is just mine or if other STX 550s are the same.

That cruise control might be due to a number of things.

* Auto cars have TWO brake switches (manuals might too). One is for the brake lights, one is for the cruise. I was having trouble with mine, so I disassembled the switch (yes you can) and cleaned the contacts and won a meat tray when I reassembled and yelled "bingo".

* Manual cars have a clutch switch which must function properly for cruise to engage

* Auto cars can engage cruise in gears other than 'D'rive so that's NOT it

* Car can't be in neutral so a faulty NPS will probably nix the cruise too - last resort, this one.

* All cars have clock springs in the steering wheel which are dodgy as. I replaced mine several times (including using a cheap one from a left-hand-drive vehicle - no, don't do it) until my wife found a source for the actual ribbon cable, so I disassembled mine, replaced the spring and it's been going for donkeys' years now.

There are other conditions for cruise as well (minimum 25 mph - yes they're programmed in mph and the + and - buttons increment and decrement speed by 1.6km/h each press). I'm told the max cruise speed is 130km/h but I've never tried that. On the Stuart Hwy north of Kulgera we once got it to 125km/h and noticed that no matter how hard you press the pedal you can't unlock the auto gearbox, but that was once, and only once (and the speed limit there was 130km/h).

Tips for replacing the ribbon in the clock spring:

* BEFORE you start: park the car with the steering wheel level and the front wheels straight. If you don't, you run the risk of breaking the ribbon at full lock - there's about a quarter turn of extra freedom in the ribbon, not a whole turn. You'll feel it as it breaks. Yep, personal experience.

* Have a set of jeweler's screwdrivers handy (because they're small). These are used to hold the latching clips inside the clock spring so you can get it apart.

* After you've put the clock spring back together, do NOT reinstall it immediately. Turn it ALL the way to the left (gently, of course). Now count the turns to the right, you should get close to 6 turns. Now come back about 3 turns, this should be centre. Check it (gently) - 3 turns to the left should bring it to a stop, and return to 'centre'. Now go to the right - you should get almost 3 turns. Bring it back to centre and don't let it move. Reinstall it.

* Don't panic about the airbag. Everyone rabbits on with doom and gloom about the airbag going off in your face if you fart while holding a beer in your left hand. No, it won't. Slide the black clip away from the top of the yellow plug to release the lock then simply pull the plug out. The bag's disarmed (don't turn on the ignition or the diagnostic module will start having epileptic seizures). Just place it gently somewhere to the side and keep working. I have done this several times and, yes, I farted alright and no, I don't remember eating that, glad I had the door open.

* Mark the steering wheel and the splined shaft so you can line them up exactly the same way again.

Tools needed:
- Torx bits for removing the plastic covers (under the steering column). I don't remember the size, sorry.
- Flat screwdriver 5 to 6mm to undo the spring in the airbag assembly. This is a PITA (that's Pain In The Ass, not PETA which is People Eating Tasty Animals). The spring is released by putting the blade into the hole under the steering wheel against the wire you see in there, and pushing directly towards the steering column shaft. It's exceedingly annoying until you get the knack or you break it. Or you stab your hand. I've successfully done 2 of those 3 myself (hint: I have a scar on my hand).
- Phillips bits for undoing the clock spring
- FBS (really big socket) to undo the steering nut. It'd be prudent to make an alignment mark on this too, to make reassembly easier
- Less than 7 full-strength beers, so you aren't trying to fix two clock springs at the same time
- The previously mentioned jeweller's screwdrivers. It only needs to be small strong pieces of thin metal, to be honest, just to hold the locking tabs out so you can pop the thing in half.

There ya go, way more info than I thought I'd write, but hey when you're trying to type on two keyboards at the same time with 4 hands, something fun's gonna happen.

 

[Pathfinder Benno]

That cruise control might be due to a number of things.

* Auto cars have TWO brake switches (manuals might too). One is for the brake lights, one is for the cruise. I was having trouble with mine, so I disassembled the switch (yes you can) and cleaned the contacts and won a meat tray when I reassembled and yelled "bingo".

* Manual cars have a clutch switch which must function properly for cruise to engage

* Auto cars can engage cruise in gears other than 'D'rive so that's NOT it

* Car can't be in neutral so a faulty NPS will probably nix the cruise too - last resort, this one.

* All cars have clock springs in the steering wheel which are dodgy as. I replaced mine several times (including using a cheap one from a left-hand-drive vehicle - no, don't do it) until my wife found a source for the actual ribbon cable, so I disassembled mine, replaced the spring and it's been going for donkeys' years now.

There are other conditions for cruise as well (minimum 25 mph - yes they're programmed in mph and the + and - buttons increment and decrement speed by 1.6km/h each press). I'm told the max cruise speed is 130km/h but I've never tried that. On the Stuart Hwy north of Kulgera we once got it to 125km/h and noticed that no matter how hard you press the pedal you can't unlock the auto gearbox, but that was once, and only once (and the speed limit there was 130km/h).

Tips for replacing the ribbon in the clock spring:

* BEFORE you start: park the car with the steering wheel level and the front wheels straight. If you don't, you run the risk of breaking the ribbon at full lock - there's about a quarter turn of extra freedom in the ribbon, not a whole turn. You'll feel it as it breaks. Yep, personal experience.

* Have a set of jeweler's screwdrivers handy (because they're small). These are used to hold the latching clips inside the clock spring so you can get it apart.

* After you've put the clock spring back together, do NOT reinstall it immediately. Turn it ALL the way to the left (gently, of course). Now count the turns to the right, you should get close to 6 turns. Now come back about 3 turns, this should be centre. Check it (gently) - 3 turns to the left should bring it to a stop, and return to 'centre'. Now go to the right - you should get almost 3 turns. Bring it back to centre and don't let it move. Reinstall it.

* Don't panic about the airbag. Everyone rabbits on with doom and gloom about the airbag going off in your face if you fart while holding a beer in your left hand. No, it won't. Slide the black clip away from the top of the yellow plug to release the lock then simply pull the plug out. The bag's disarmed (don't turn on the ignition or the diagnostic module will start having epileptic seizures). Just place it gently somewhere to the side and keep working. I have done this several times and, yes, I farted alright and no, I don't remember eating that, glad I had the door open.

* Mark the steering wheel and the splined shaft so you can line them up exactly the same way again.

Tools needed:
- Torx bits for removing the plastic covers (under the steering column). I don't remember the size, sorry.
- Flat screwdriver 5 to 6mm to undo the spring in the airbag assembly. This is a PITA (that's Pain In The Ass, not PETA which is People Eating Tasty Animals). The spring is released by putting the blade into the hole under the steering wheel against the wire you see in there, and pushing directly towards the steering column shaft. It's exceedingly annoying until you get the knack or you break it. Or you stab your hand. I've successfully done 2 of those 3 myself (hint: I have a scar on my hand).
- Phillips bits for undoing the clock spring
- FBS (really big socket) to undo the steering nut. It'd be prudent to make an alignment mark on this too, to make reassembly easier
- Less than 7 full-strength beers, so you aren't trying to fix two clock springs at the same time
- The previously mentioned jeweller's screwdrivers. It only needs to be small strong pieces of thin metal, to be honest, just to hold the locking tabs out so you can pop the thing in half.

There ya go, way more info than I thought I'd write, but hey when you're trying to type on two keyboards at the same time with 4 hands, something fun's gonna happen.

 

[Pathfinder Benno]

I have the same engine, Australian vehicles had a DPF unit fitted but not connected, no fuel lines etc. Don't know why but good!!!
When you "arm" cruise control are you seeing flashing dash lines where the set speed is displayed?

 

[Old.Tony]

I have the same engine, Australian vehicles had a DPF unit fitted but not connected, no fuel lines etc. Don't know why but good!!!
When you "arm" cruise control are you seeing flashing dash lines where the set speed is displayed?

No, the only change is the "CRUISE" light comes on. The display is otherwise normal. Sounds like you've got either a faulty instrument cluster, or perhaps a bad earth. Try this: connect a jumper lead from the chassis of the stereo to one of the main dashboard mounting bolts.

 

[Piglet]

That cruise control might be due to a number of things.

* Auto cars have TWO brake switches (manuals might too). One is for the brake lights, one is for the cruise. I was having trouble with mine, so I disassembled the switch (yes you can) and cleaned the contacts and won a meat tray when I reassembled and yelled "bingo".

* Manual cars have a clutch switch which must function properly for cruise to engage

* Auto cars can engage cruise in gears other than 'D'rive so that's NOT it

* Car can't be in neutral so a faulty NPS will probably nix the cruise too - last resort, this one.

* All cars have clock springs in the steering wheel which are dodgy as. I replaced mine several times (including using a cheap one from a left-hand-drive vehicle - no, don't do it) until my wife found a source for the actual ribbon cable, so I disassembled mine, replaced the spring and it's been going for donkeys' years now.

There are other conditions for cruise as well (minimum 25 mph - yes they're programmed in mph and the + and - buttons increment and decrement speed by 1.6km/h each press). I'm told the max cruise speed is 130km/h but I've never tried that. On the Stuart Hwy north of Kulgera we once got it to 125km/h and noticed that no matter how hard you press the pedal you can't unlock the auto gearbox, but that was once, and only once (and the speed limit there was 130km/h).

Tips for replacing the ribbon in the clock spring:

* BEFORE you start: park the car with the steering wheel level and the front wheels straight. If you don't, you run the risk of breaking the ribbon at full lock - there's about a quarter turn of extra freedom in the ribbon, not a whole turn. You'll feel it as it breaks. Yep, personal experience.

* Have a set of jeweler's screwdrivers handy (because they're small). These are used to hold the latching clips inside the clock spring so you can get it apart.

* After you've put the clock spring back together, do NOT reinstall it immediately. Turn it ALL the way to the left (gently, of course). Now count the turns to the right, you should get close to 6 turns. Now come back about 3 turns, this should be centre. Check it (gently) - 3 turns to the left should bring it to a stop, and return to 'centre'. Now go to the right - you should get almost 3 turns. Bring it back to centre and don't let it move. Reinstall it.

* Don't panic about the airbag. Everyone rabbits on with doom and gloom about the airbag going off in your face if you fart while holding a beer in your left hand. No, it won't. Slide the black clip away from the top of the yellow plug to release the lock then simply pull the plug out. The bag's disarmed (don't turn on the ignition or the diagnostic module will start having epileptic seizures). Just place it gently somewhere to the side and keep working. I have done this several times and, yes, I farted alright and no, I don't remember eating that, glad I had the door open.

* Mark the steering wheel and the splined shaft so you can line them up exactly the same way again.

Tools needed:
- Torx bits for removing the plastic covers (under the steering column). I don't remember the size, sorry.
- Flat screwdriver 5 to 6mm to undo the spring in the airbag assembly. This is a PITA (that's Pain In The Ass, not PETA which is People Eating Tasty Animals). The spring is released by putting the blade into the hole under the steering wheel against the wire you see in there, and pushing directly towards the steering column shaft. It's exceedingly annoying until you get the knack or you break it. Or you stab your hand. I've successfully done 2 of those 3 myself (hint: I have a scar on my hand).
- Phillips bits for undoing the clock spring
- FBS (really big socket) to undo the steering nut. It'd be prudent to make an alignment mark on this too, to make reassembly easier
- Less than 7 full-strength beers, so you aren't trying to fix two clock springs at the same time
- The previously mentioned jeweller's screwdrivers. It only needs to be small strong pieces of thin metal, to be honest, just to hold the locking tabs out so you can pop the thing in half.

There ya go, way more info than I thought I'd write, but hey when you're trying to type on two keyboards at the same time with 4 hands, something fun's gonna happen.

Thanks again Tony, Your information is very good,
I managed to get my car plugged into a snap on OBD this morning and got a pile of codes.
Engine - Codes - Codes: 7
P0560 Battery Voltage
P0571 Brake pedal position switch "A" circuit (maybe my cruise control issue)
P0606 Engine Control Module - Processor error
P012B Turbocharger Inlet Pressure Sensor ( I am on my third intercooler, the previous 2 only lasted 40,000 so perhaps I am due)
P1525 Automatic Speed Control Device Function
P2293 Fuel Rail Pressure Regulator 2 Control Circuit Performa............(i missed the end with my photo)
P2600 Turbo Charger Cooling Pump Circuit

Transmission Codes: 3
P0725 Engine Rotation - History Code
P1815 Manual Mode switch - History Code
P1585 G Sensor History Code

clearing the codes seemed to help for a short while, about 10km, switched on the cruise at 103kph and set it. it lasted about 15 seconds before disengaging.
I will have crack at cleaning the brake pedal sensor on your previous advice and check all my earths, fuses etc. and wack the battery on the charger and see if that helps.
I have booked in with my mechanic next week and see what we can sort out.
thank you again,

 

[Old.Tony]

Thanks again Tony, Your information is very good,
I managed to get my car plugged into a snap on OBD this morning and got a pile of codes.
Engine - Codes - Codes: 7
P0560 Battery Voltage
P0571 Brake pedal position switch "A" circuit (maybe my cruise control issue)
P0606 Engine Control Module - Processor error
P012B Turbocharger Inlet Pressure Sensor ( I am on my third intercooler, the previous 2 only lasted 40,000 so perhaps I am due)
P1525 Automatic Speed Control Device Function
P2293 Fuel Rail Pressure Regulator 2 Control Circuit Performa............(i missed the end with my photo)
P2600 Turbo Charger Cooling Pump Circuit

Transmission Codes: 3
P0725 Engine Rotation - History Code
P1815 Manual Mode switch - History Code
P1585 G Sensor History Code

clearing the codes seemed to help for a short while, about 10km, switched on the cruise at 103kph and set it. it lasted about 15 seconds before disengaging.
I will have crack at cleaning the brake pedal sensor on your previous advice and check all my earths, fuses etc. and wack the battery on the charger and see if that helps.
I have booked in with my mechanic next week and see what we can sort out.
thank you again,

With a list of codes like that, I'd suggest that either there's an electrical connection problem (like the battery terminals aren't very clean) or there's an electrical connection problem (like the car's been hit by lightning).

It costs nothing to do: remove the battery terminals, give it all a good clean and reassemble.