my D22 getting SAS

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wouldnt have a clue...just a thing that trips and then you gota flick it back up at the box.

Cut up the pieces for the swing away..
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does it have a little button on the switch that when pressed trips it? and is it wider then the other circuit breakers in there?
 
Being a fairly new house it would be a RCD.

All GPO circuit's are meant't to be on RCD's. Not that it matter's.

Anyways on topic, Your gonna need to make it strong. I imagine those 35's would be heavy. My 32's aren't fun to change and remove.

What do you do for a job by the way, I do remember seeing what you do but I cant remember.

Dave.
 
Power is all fixed now. I duno what it was,i wasnt home when the sparky came.
Yeah i will struggle lifting the 35 up onto the carrier myself...and im not a small guy..
Im a fitter, still an apprentice tho:rolleyes:
 
Thanks dave, this is only the 2nd fab work ive done tho, sliders was first...im not to happy with my welding (dont do any at work) but should fix that soon.
 
Your welding will get better with more practice Joshy, after a while you get a feel for things, you'll be able to look at a weld and say that was too cold, or too hot, just takes a lot of practice, there's little cues that you learn only with experience like the sound of the weld, how it pools and flows etc.

My welding these days is great, but I do it every day, welding aluminium with both MIG and TIG and it's just 2nd nature to me now, but I sucked when I started out as everyone does, welding is an art all to it's own. I also weld steel maybe once or twice a month, and it takes me a weld or two to get my eye back in with the steel just because it pools and flows differently to aluminium.

Just keep practicing mate, and if you aren't happy with the weld, just grind it off and have another crack.

With regards to welding that stub axle into the tube, the welder you are using probably just doesn't have enough grunt for the job, I'd expect you would need maybe 160+ amps (on a MIG, maybe less on stick) to get a good looking weld on there just because of the amount of heat the axle stub will suck away.
 
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mate im not sure if i can make it to cruiser park next weekend, the nav goes into nissan tomorrow to get my clutch checked out.. hopefully its fixed by next weekend, or ill be the first person to do camp road in a barina.
 
bummer mate...hopefully it gets sorted in time, Looks like everyone is pulling out, mate i was spose to go up with isnt going anymore either.
 
Your welding will get better with more practice Joshy, after a while you get a feel for things, you'll be able to look at a weld and say that was too cold, or too hot, just takes a lot of practice, there's little cues that you learn only with experience like the sound of the weld, how it pools and flows etc.

My welding these days is great, but I do it every day, welding aluminium with both MIG and TIG and it's just 2nd nature to me now, but I sucked when I started out as everyone does, welding is an art all to it's own. I also weld steel maybe once or twice a month, and it takes me a weld or two to get my eye back in with the steel just because it pools and flows differently to aluminium.

Just keep practicing mate, and if you aren't happy with the weld, just grind it off and have another crack.

With regards to welding that stub axle into the tube, the welder you are using probably just doesn't have enough grunt for the job, I'd expect you would need maybe 160+ amps (on a MIG, maybe less on stick) to get a good looking weld on there just because of the amount of heat the axle stub will suck away.


Thanks for the encouragement shonky, I took some stuff to weld at work today and your right about the amps i think im just not getting enough at home, welds looked a lot better.
 
Rough placement of the rear bar
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Not sure what to do about the towbar...flipped i will need massive spaces so i can still open the tail gate, only option is to cut and modify. you can see the length of bolt id need in the 2nd pic.
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The towbar is a tough one Josh, not sure what to do about it, it's a fair bit of work to change it by the looks, and you will want your welding up to scratch before attempting to modify it, you don't want any dodgy welds on the towbar.

The easiest thing to do would be to cut the centre bar out and flip the end mounts to put the bar back up the correct way but the brackets upside down, then you wouldn't need as big a spacers.
 
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And for mounting to the chassis rails, im thinkng 75x75x6 angle, bolted bottom and side into chassis and then welded onto rear bar.

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the pieces are 455mm long but over hang extending from the chassis to rear bar is only about 150mm. if i gusset and decently weld them to the rear bar will it be enough?
 
The towbar is a tough one Josh, not sure what to do about it, it's a fair bit of work to change it by the looks, and you will want your welding up to scratch before attempting to modify it, you don't want any dodgy welds on the towbar.

The easiest thing to do would be to cut the centre bar out and flip the end mounts to put the bar back up the correct way but the brackets upside down, then you wouldn't need as big a spacers.

Yeah i wont be touching the tow bar myself....im not keen on it going through someone elses windscreen. haha.
 
brace it

hello Josh, just an idiea but i would look at a gusset from the horizontal bar that the tyre will be mounted on back down to the vertical one, if that makes any sense. you will have a lot of weight there and it looks like it will stick out a long way with those big wheels, that is where your pivot point will be and also all your welds so it will be the first place it will crack up. when the wheels are on you won't see it.
its going to look pretty flash when you finish it
 
Yea i understand i think, ive left that tyre mount piece long as i dont know how far i need for the tyre yet, i was going to brace it once i know how much clearance i have around the rim so the gusset can extend along the arm as far as possible...if that makes sense.
 

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