my D22 getting SAS

[joshy]

eh the pieces i cut off had dents in them from the rear step pushing up into them so no big deal. Going to lift the tow bar and then make a rear bar to suit.

 

[joshy]

Pic from a bit further away..

 

[navman_brent]

this will look awesome when its done. departure angle will improve sht loads. would be good to do the custom steel tray set up.. but everyone does that so you should make this real neat, it'll be somethin different.

 

[Dave]

Looking good Josh. This thing just keep getting better and better.

Dave.

 

[joshy]

Thanks guys, Yea departure angle will be much better once the tow bar is lifted and the rear bar will sit where that bit of metal in the corner sticking down is. I hope to put a steel comp tray on eventualy....which is why it didnt bother me to much cutting into the tub, Just a bonus that it doesnt look too bad.

 

[joshy]

The mudflaps i made up for now

 

[Shonky]

Looks pretty good Josh, once that towbar is sorted you'll know you will be able to get the back out of anywhere you got the front into in the first place. :4:

 

[joshy]

haha well hopefully with the locker i dont have to back track. Its lookin a bit boxy at the rear...but i gota get some rubber to go around the edge i cut and once the rear bar is on it should look a bit more respectable.

 

[navman_brent]

oh what why didnt you put on mack mud flaps... or CAT or Kenworth... im disappointed. oh and a rum pig sticker to go with it .. or hundreds of stickers...
okay iv vented my frustration, its the heat thats gettin to me...
is it legal requirement to have mudflaps?

 

[joshy]

haha not a big fan of stickers. Yeah legaly you gota have mudflaps and i figure its something simple i could do to make it that bit more legal.

 

[D22 King]

hey joshy, whats the nav like to run with the 35s on road? it would be thirsty as wouldnt it?

 

[joshy]

Nah i prefer it on the 35's, better economy especialy if its hwy kms. if bias tyres didnt wear so fast on the road and 35s were cheap id use them as dailys.

 

[joshy]

started on the rear bar...weldings a bit ordinary but should work.

 

[navman_brent]

when do you think you will be finished? those welds will come up good after a bit of grinding and paint.

 

[Dave]

Should look Josh, keep the pics coming .

Dave.

 

[joshy]

when do you think you will be finished? those welds will come up good after a bit of grinding and paint.

The aim is to have it done for LCMP, fingers crossed.

Should look Josh, keep the pics coming .

Dave.

Cheers Dave.

 

[joshy]

Almost had the stub all finished up and the fuse tripped, unplugged everything and now anythin i plug in, even a phone charger trips the fuse again.
frustrating.

anyway gota decide on the rear arm design, the 35's are f***n heavy so i dont know which will be strongest, using 40x40 4mm wall which should be enough?

dodgy designs on paint..

type a

type b

Thoughts

 

[tanz]

Type B would centre the weight on the arm and reduce rattles maybe.

 

[joshy]

Yeah think ill be going with b but with another post in the middle.

 

[Shonky]

40x40x4mm should be heaps Joshy, I'd doubt the Kaymar bars are any heavier than 3mm so 4mm should be heaps.

I'd go with option B provided your catch in the centre is going to have some sort of slide plate to carry half of the load, if it is going to be catch only, go with option A as the bar and wheel stub will carry 10x the weight of the wheel anyway without a problem.