bods
Member
I reckon it would have to be auto otherwise the manual shifter would be in the back seat hahaha. At least you can make linkages work with an auto shifter. Good luck with your problem, hopefully it is just the chip...
Losing Power and High EGT’s
- Thread starter Supersonic
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Been a while
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Auto is far easier
A nav would be fun but a pootrol would be an easier conversion ehOk, progress report... I've been totally useless for the last week, parked her up and couldn't even look at her .. yup, had the sad's on good...
With the bugger of a time I had in N.S.W Narrandera with a motel owner and the local police there -I've been a wreck.. Ruined a short 2 for 1 break and I couldn't even look at the ute since I've been back..
Anyways that's another story..Sorry about that dump, but better out than in as they say..
With the Ute, I finally HAD to move it so I did a little work on her, pulled chip aaand no good..
Same problem just at lower temps, so yes in a way it did work but it just a mask, there is something else going on here ..
Another thing I noticed today was the oil pressure is way up ?? The gauge responds as fast as the revs ??? It once sat on 8 to 10 psi on idle but now higher and on the road it would sit 40 to 60psi but now 60psi plus and it goes from 60 to 100psi like the taco lol
Got me tossed..
I'll try cleaning what sensors she has and pull the plumbing from the turbo, I.cooler etc and check for leaks -but I'm thinking injector maybe..
I'll wack it on ecutalk first....
No smoke that I can see in the rear cam, no soot on rear tow bar, camper etc after 1000ks, idles like it's new, no eng light..
Still, with out chip it dies in 5th, fine down low from take off and through to 4, but get to 85 95 and she struggles to get to 110 and up go the temps.. It still gains more heat than it used to coming up through the gears.. was thinking crack in piston ??
I guess injectors out for clean and test, maybe compression test first before I pull injectors and see if I can get a cam down the injector or glowplug port.. don't know - a little stumped at the moment...
If it's absolutely fine in gears 1-4, you would have to suspect some electrical control influenced by 5th gear and that's almost always going to be the NPS. I can't see in the thread where you might have disconnected that to test - so it might be worth trying.
I am always suspicious when two unrelated sensors start behaving in tandem. The thing in common is the instrument cluster and the engine earth (which also means battery negative). Since everything else seems to be working reasonably, I'd say battery positive is ok, but give the negative terminal a clean.
Then pop the NPS off the gearbox and see what happens.
And to address an earlier point you raised - your injectors have done 90,000km and might be too old - mine have just past 325,000km and they've never been removed from the engine. I've run the occasional Liqui Moly Fuel System Treatment through her, and once did a diesel purge. But they're the originals, still going nicely, so I think yours at 90,000km are not that old at all!
I am always suspicious when two unrelated sensors start behaving in tandem. The thing in common is the instrument cluster and the engine earth (which also means battery negative). Since everything else seems to be working reasonably, I'd say battery positive is ok, but give the negative terminal a clean.
Then pop the NPS off the gearbox and see what happens.
And to address an earlier point you raised - your injectors have done 90,000km and might be too old - mine have just past 325,000km and they've never been removed from the engine. I've run the occasional Liqui Moly Fuel System Treatment through her, and once did a diesel purge. But they're the originals, still going nicely, so I think yours at 90,000km are not that old at all!
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Ahhh ok nps, I know where that is- replaced once before in a fault finding mission... I'll disconnect and try.. thanks
But your thinking was where I was going- I was thinking ECU ??? But it would throw a engine light i thought...?
I'm sure I'm not imagining the oil pressure gauge...
Terminals are spotless but I'll check ... did them when I did the alternator...
Well, thanks for your input ..have a good weekend...
Oh, when I say fine 1st to 4th it pulls a little to well even with out the chip.. You'd think it's running fine but the temps are still sitting higher and wont come down when you float the throttle.. usually when she comes up to speed the temps will drop when you sit it on 3000rps or so and coasting along.. it will come down but not like it once did...
I'll try the nps now on a trip to town... brb
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For what it's worth, my thoughts are;
1. Best outcome - once you removed the chip, did you do an ECU re-set? The chip may have caused an issue that's easily rectified with a re-boot!
2. Worst case scenario - I'd compression test the engine. I hate to say it, but it does sound like a worn out motor. Entirely possible if you've been running that chip & using the extra horses it provides.
Good luck with it. I hope that it's a simple/cheap fix.
1. Best outcome - once you removed the chip, did you do an ECU re-set? The chip may have caused an issue that's easily rectified with a re-boot!
2. Worst case scenario - I'd compression test the engine. I hate to say it, but it does sound like a worn out motor. Entirely possible if you've been running that chip & using the extra horses it provides.
Good luck with it. I hope that it's a simple/cheap fix.
Let's look at another influence on temperatures - the radiator fan. Mine has been a PITA, but I have a fix now.
Note: I do know you're measuring EGT and not coolant temperature, and higher EGTs are usually the result of a fuel/air mix issue, but there's no harm in making sure this is right and the info might help someone else.
I have TWO viscous hubs. One is solid - as in I removed the oil and screwed the plates together so there's no fluid drive. It just goes. Makes a lot of noise (as if the hub is locked, not like there's a problem), but as a replacement that I can whack in on the side of the road to get me home it's perfect.
The other is my rebuildable one. I went to Toyota service department and for $18 I bought a little bottle of silicone oil. I suspect I could buy this **** elsewhere, but this is how I did it. I crack open the centre of the viscous hub, pour another bottle in and close it up again. Then I test it, it's usually fine.
Testing it is easy, obviously easier with two people.
Get the car to a nice hot temperature (10 minutes of normal driving will do, usually) and pull over where it's safe.
ONE person: pop the bonnet, turn off the engine then race around and open the bonnet and try to turn the radiator fan over. It should be very stiff. If it's easy to turn, your viscous hub is stuffed and not drawing air through like expected.
TWO people: pop the bonnet, leave the engine running, have the other person exit the vehicle and stand on your side, YOU exit the vehicle and open the bonnet and watch the fan. Have the other person turn the engine off. If the fan stops straight away, with the engine, the viscous hub is fine.
Now it's probably not the cooling system, but if you're generating high EGTs, the cooling system is something you want working well so it's worth checking.
Does your turbo have a wastegate, and is it working?
Note: I do know you're measuring EGT and not coolant temperature, and higher EGTs are usually the result of a fuel/air mix issue, but there's no harm in making sure this is right and the info might help someone else.
I have TWO viscous hubs. One is solid - as in I removed the oil and screwed the plates together so there's no fluid drive. It just goes. Makes a lot of noise (as if the hub is locked, not like there's a problem), but as a replacement that I can whack in on the side of the road to get me home it's perfect.
The other is my rebuildable one. I went to Toyota service department and for $18 I bought a little bottle of silicone oil. I suspect I could buy this **** elsewhere, but this is how I did it. I crack open the centre of the viscous hub, pour another bottle in and close it up again. Then I test it, it's usually fine.
Testing it is easy, obviously easier with two people.
Get the car to a nice hot temperature (10 minutes of normal driving will do, usually) and pull over where it's safe.
ONE person: pop the bonnet, turn off the engine then race around and open the bonnet and try to turn the radiator fan over. It should be very stiff. If it's easy to turn, your viscous hub is stuffed and not drawing air through like expected.
TWO people: pop the bonnet, leave the engine running, have the other person exit the vehicle and stand on your side, YOU exit the vehicle and open the bonnet and watch the fan. Have the other person turn the engine off. If the fan stops straight away, with the engine, the viscous hub is fine.
Now it's probably not the cooling system, but if you're generating high EGTs, the cooling system is something you want working well so it's worth checking.
Does your turbo have a wastegate, and is it working?
It's worth checking the viscous hub for sure!
My wife's car had a problem on our outback trip last year, but her's is a petrol. It was doing some very weird things! I could drive it all day on the flat, even in 40+C ambient temps & the temp gauge showed all good. But if I stopped the car & turned the engine off (toilet stops etc), the temp gauge would be fine when I re-started the car, but would go up significantly after about 200-300 metres of driving (???) Then, I'd sit on the side of the road idling for a few minutes & the temp came back down.
It drove me nuts! No excessive coolant overflow, no bubbles in the coolant, no colour in the coolant that shouldn't be there! Nice pink AT fluid on the dip stick.
It started doing it between Windorah & Betoota, so it was a tad concerning lol. It wasn't causing any other issues (no power loss). So, we just continued on our way.
Idling it after every time we stopped worked, but got old very quickly! We were on holiday & so stopping to look at stuff along the way. It was even doing it while we weren't towing when we were in Alice Springs on our way home, which was awkward!
Got home & it never did it again!
I've had it to various mechanics & a radiator place & had the trans pan dropped & flushed, just in case. But god knows what it was!
We'd towed a caravan up through the centre with it before that trip, including pulling the van up out of Redbank gorge, so I don't believe that towing is an issue. We towed the camper with my D22 when we went to the Flinders Ranges in March, so I haven't had a chance to see if it'll happen to my wife's car again while towing.
We're off on another trip in Spring; Googs Track & the Old Eyre Hwy, so I'm wondering which car to take. I'm also trying to get my wife to agree to doing the Old Andado Track after Googs, but not having much luck as yet
We've actually worked out that we can tow - even up hills - with the viscous hub busted, but we just have to do it slower. On some of the steeper grades (example - Thunderbolts Way) we have to open the car windows, turn the air conditioning off, turn the temp to full heat and the fan to 4 - it dramatically drops the coolant temp, but it gets real nasty inside when it's 40+ outside!
That is starting to sound a bit too familiar Tony lol! Maybe the viscous hub on my wife's car is busted. I can't get my head around why it hasn't played up since though. Especially considering the hot summer that we just had.
bods
Member
Not sure what car it is, but if it supports one of the many OBD2 scantools out there, I'd be trying that first. Even with the torque app on your phone, just to check coolant temperature. It could have been the gauge playing silly buggers, but the torque app will show you exactly what the ecu is seeing from the sensors on the motor. Mine has never moved out of the normal range on my D22, unfortunately "normal" is about from 40c to over 94c (that's the hottest I've seen the temp on torque) without the gauge moving.It's worth checking the viscous hub for sure!
My wife's car had a problem on our outback trip last year, but her's is a petrol. It was doing some very weird things! I could drive it all day on the flat, even in 40+C ambient temps & the temp gauge showed all good. But if I stopped the car & turned the engine off (toilet stops etc), the temp gauge would be fine when I re-started the car, but would go up significantly after about 200-300 metres of driving (???) Then, I'd sit on the side of the road idling for a few minutes & the temp came back down.
It drove me nuts! No excessive coolant overflow, no bubbles in the coolant, no colour in the coolant that shouldn't be there! Nice pink AT fluid on the dip stick.
It started doing it between Windorah & Betoota, so it was a tad concerning lol. It wasn't causing any other issues (no power loss). So, we just continued on our way.
Idling it after every time we stopped worked, but got old very quickly! We were on holiday & so stopping to look at stuff along the way. It was even doing it while we weren't towing when we were in Alice Springs on our way home, which was awkward!
Got home & it never did it again!
I've had it to various mechanics & a radiator place & had the trans pan dropped & flushed, just in case. But god knows what it was!
We'd towed a caravan up through the centre with it before that trip, including pulling the van up out of Redbank gorge, so I don't believe that towing is an issue. We towed the camper with my D22 when we went to the Flinders Ranges in March, so I haven't had a chance to see if it'll happen to my wife's car again while towing.
We're off on another trip in Spring; Googs Track & the Old Eyre Hwy, so I'm wondering which car to take. I'm also trying to get my wife to agree to doing the Old Andado Track after Googs, but not having much luck as yet
That's another good suggestion. It is a wastegated turbo and I asked about boost before and all that seems normal. Without excessive smoke it is hard to believe an injector is leaking, but the zd30 motor without OBD2 support is a pain to check engine data without a consult tool or scangauge... I vaguely recall some people having a bit of success with Nissan data scan but not sure if you can even get an adaptor to suit them anymore...
Here's another left field suggestion. Your thermocouple (temp probe for the egt gauge) hasn't been moved at all has it? It needs to be in the middle 2/3rds of the exhaust stream to get an accurate reading.
Also earth's, are they all in good condition? I had an ea falcon years ago that the oil pressure gauge would read max all the time and it turned out that the wire had come off the sending unit. Plugged it back in and all good. I'd be double checking your motor to body and battery to body earth connections just to make sure nothing has come loose anywhere. It also wouldn't hurt to add an extra earth lead between the body and the motor somewhere, especially onto one of the earth points that the battery uses either on the body or motor.
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Hi bods, I carry an OBD2 scanner/code clearer when we go away with the car - sadly, it didn't throw any codes when the temp gauge went up.
When we were in Birdsville, I was chatting (whinging) about it in the camp kitchen to the only other bloke in there at brekky time. Next thing I knew, we had his son & nephew at the car trying to work their magic (they were mechanics) Those blokes went above & beyond - they were doing it because they could, not because we asked (they really were fantastic guys!). But they couldn't work it out. I got it to happen real easy for them - I just started the car, drove from the CP to the pub & back, stopped it, started it again & the issue was there straight away. Their gear showed the coolant temp at 28C when the gauge went up through the roof. Faulty gauge? Maybe! But like I said above, it hasn't ever happened in the 10 months since we got home. The radiator guy said the gauge was likely the culprit, but I'm not convinced.
bods
Member
What model car is it? It could be a communication issue between the ecu and the gauge. Was that 28c the temp the ecu was seeing it did they have a thermometer on the radiator or hoses? Could have been a sticky thermostat and the temp in the motor where the sending unit is was reading higher than the actual temp. Would have been interesting to see what the ecu was seeing as far as temp goes. Could have been just having a moment, but you never know and can't really risk it...
Sent from my moto g(6) plus using Tapatalk
Sent from my moto g(6) plus using Tapatalk
It's a V6 petrol Pajero.
The 28C was from the OBD2 port, so the ECU. I could leave my hand on the top tank, or the hoses without burning myself when the issue was happening.
I've discounted a sticky thermostat - 1. it was easy to get the gauge back down by idling (using the heater on full blast didn't work) 2. it's never happened since.
I think your assessment of it just having a moment is spot on! But, like you say, the risk is too great to ignore it.
As soon as we got home, the problem stopped! Good as gold ever since (insert confused look!)
The 28C was from the OBD2 port, so the ECU. I could leave my hand on the top tank, or the hoses without burning myself when the issue was happening.
I've discounted a sticky thermostat - 1. it was easy to get the gauge back down by idling (using the heater on full blast didn't work) 2. it's never happened since.
I think your assessment of it just having a moment is spot on! But, like you say, the risk is too great to ignore it.
As soon as we got home, the problem stopped! Good as gold ever since (insert confused look!)
bods
Member
Maybe it decided it didn't want to be on holiday anymore so it threw a tantrum haha. Oh well hopefully that's that...
In saying all that, if the ecu was seeing 28c then I'd say it's an issue with the gauge. I don't know whether those use canbus for comms between the ecu and the dash, but it could be wiring or a dodgy connection somewhere as Tony mentioned below...
In saying all that, if the ecu was seeing 28c then I'd say it's an issue with the gauge. I don't know whether those use canbus for comms between the ecu and the dash, but it could be wiring or a dodgy connection somewhere as Tony mentioned below...
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It's entirely possible that it was (and may still be) an electrical fault. I don't know much about Pajeros, but in the Navara, the in-dash stereo and the instrument cluster both share an earth. You fix instrument cluster problems by earthing the stereo.
Sounds daft, but it's happened, the fix has worked and away it goes.
It's entirely possible that your car's problem is just with the gauge, or the sender. It might be a small amount of conductor on both of the wires going into the sensor are exposed and had touched, and now there'd be a small amount of oxidisation causing it to be insulated again. Pressure-wash the engine bay and the problem may return!
Sounds daft, but it's happened, the fix has worked and away it goes.
It's entirely possible that your car's problem is just with the gauge, or the sender. It might be a small amount of conductor on both of the wires going into the sensor are exposed and had touched, and now there'd be a small amount of oxidisation causing it to be insulated again. Pressure-wash the engine bay and the problem may return!
bods
Member
So how's things going with this? Any more updates yet or did you burn it to the ground? Lol.Ahhh ok nps, I know where that is- replaced once before in a fault finding mission... I'll disconnect and try.. thanks
But your thinking was where I was going- I was thinking ECU ??? But it would throw a engine light i thought...?
I'm sure I'm not imagining the oil pressure gauge...
Terminals are spotless but I'll check ... did them when I did the alternator...
Well, thanks for your input ..have a good weekend...
Oh, when I say fine 1st to 4th it pulls a little to well even with out the chip.. You'd think it's running fine but the temps are still sitting higher and wont come down when you float the throttle.. usually when she comes up to speed the temps will drop when you sit it on 3000rps or so and coasting along.. it will come down but not like it once did...
I'll try the nps now on a trip to town... brb
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Yes mate, did the ECU reset after each thing was done - vac lines, air filter, chip out etc
And your dead right, the poor 'ol girl did 60'000+ on a 220'000k motor towing a camper, bike, generators etc she's now on 320'000...
Comp test -Yes, it has to be done- to me it's got a little more blow by than normal - more oil in catch cans lately... Rings maybe..
I'd say with over 300'000ks on her, the valves would need to be set and shimed . I had the gaps checked 70'000 ago and they where "just" with in tolerances then soooooo, maybe a head job... You can shim valves with the head on and cams in, you just need Nissan'$ $pecial $him tool kit - when I was looking into doing this years ago these tools whernt cheap..
They are made of a high grade hardened steel and once you see them and "understand how they work" you'll know why they're made that way..
The cheaper tools kits won't stand up, the fine edge on the tool will burr over and wear then slip off as you try to depress the valve to add and remove shims..
I'll find the part number and see if I can get a price...
To do the shims by yourself you need this tool - BUT lol if you have a mate and you both know what's going on you can do it with " dare I say it - a couple of fine blade screwdrivers" it's ugly but it can be done...
If it needs rings it's basically a re-build with these motors.. If the rings are down you would have to say the balance shaft bushes would be getting close.. soooo with b.s bushes, rings "be stupid not to pistons, small and big end crank bearings maybe a crank grind" etc , shim the valves it's an "out And rebuild" job ...
Would I,,,,,, hmmm maybe,,,,, I've got a brand new oil pump and oil cover plate sitting here
orrrrI'd like to look into putting the pootrol zd into her, find a low k pootrol motor with cracked pistons or head and rebuild that...?.?..
Or just re build my block, bore to max, port, heavier pistons - what can you do to the nav zd regarding getting them going better and stronger ..??
I have no idea when it comes to diesels, i dont think cams etc will help- i think the trick is to build them as strong as you can and add boost and fuel ..
Anyway I'll keep you posted... if she has good'ish comps' I'll do the shims and see how much I can get out of her..
I
Been a while
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It's worth checking the viscous hub for sure!
My wife's car had a problem on our outback trip last year, but her's is a petrol. It was doing some very weird things! I could drive it all day on the flat, even in 40+C ambient temps & the temp gauge showed all good. But if I stopped the car & turned the engine off (toilet stops etc), the temp gauge would be fine when I re-started the car, but would go up significantly after about 200-300 metres of driving (???) Then, I'd sit on the side of the road idling for a few minutes & the temp came back down.
It drove me nuts! No excessive coolant overflow, no bubbles in the coolant, no colour in the coolant that shouldn't be there! Nice pink AT fluid on the dip stick.
It started doing it between Windorah & Betoota, so it was a tad concerning lol. It wasn't causing any other issues (no power loss). So, we just continued on our way.
Idling it after every time we stopped worked, but got old very quickly! We were on holiday & so stopping to look at stuff along the way. It was even doing it while we weren't towing when we were in Alice Springs on our way home, which was awkward!
Got home & it never did it again!
I've had it to various mechanics & a radiator place & had the trans pan dropped & flushed, just in case. But god knows what it was!
We'd towed a caravan up through the centre with it before that trip, including pulling the van up out of Redbank gorge, so I don't believe that towing is an issue. We towed the camper with my D22 when we went to the Flinders Ranges in March, so I haven't had a chance to see if it'll happen to my wife's car again while towing.
We're off on another trip in Spring; Googs Track & the Old Eyre Hwy, so I'm wondering which car to take. I'm also trying to get my wife to agree to doing the Old Andado Track after Googs, but not having much luck as yet
If you look up the meaning of Nissan in the dictiinary I'm sure it reads - the ability to drive a sane man f'n nuts....
You've done some nice trips bloke... well done.
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Lol, you know it lol nooooo, I'm using restraint and know when to walk away thank you..
Ok , yes sorry- had a tantrum and couldn't look at her all week.. no $#@*, put her in the shed and closed the door.... sad eh
But we do have a winner "me thinks", N.P.S for the win gents... Thank you all very much for your input..
Just disconnected it and a vast improvement... Did a quick block'y and now going to do another ecu re-set and go do a good run with the etalk going - ill get back to with temps etc
Took the switch out "and I had replaced it at one stage- genuine too ", the movement was "knotchy" and the multi meter was going nuts so i disconnected it ..
I'll just cut and remove the pins from connector box and connect the connector box back up..
I used a long socket to get to the switch, I removed the wires from connector box then folded them up to fit inside the socket- a little fiddly and having a body lift certainly helps..
If you know your not going to need the switch you would just cut and remove but you would still need to remove the connector box to install a new one.. the plug is made for disassembly..
Ok, so if I don't have another "hissy fit" in the next few hours - I'll get back to you today with some more info
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Well I refrained from having a hissy fit but couldn't get the ecutalk to work ... The laptop that I use for the Ute was cleaned and the ecutalk program was removed... Downloaded the program again and can't get it to connect to the Ute???
I'm sure its the com3 port but it won't connect?.
I'm sure its the com3 port but it won't connect?.
