Lift and tyre combo

[scottie]

Hi everyone i have just bought a brand new 2012 ST Nav and looking to get abit more clearance and tyres. Now i would love to go the 2 inch body and 2 suspension lift but at this stage i can only justify the one. I am trying to figure out which is needed more at this stage suspension or body lift with the tyres. At this stage the Nav will be mainly used for daily driving and flat beach work until i put on some decent amount of kms on it but i will be looking at camping in the barrington tops and watigains around Newcastle in the near future.

My main concern with the 2 inch suspension lift is the front cv shaft angles and uni joints with premature failure due to the changed angles. I wont be giving it to hard of time but i will be 4wding with it. I would like peoples experiences and opions here. Also how much extra clearance would i get on the drive line here and chassis. As the body lift will not provide any extra clearance here other than the slight tyre difference.

The body lift is a far cheaper option at this stage and i can't see a reason to steer away from the way of getting abit more body clearance at this stage without affecting warrenty and causing exta wear and tear at this stage.

Atm the i am looking at getting a set of bf goodridge km2 on a steel rim for 4wding and use the standard rims and tyres for daily driving and i have looked at different posts i am lead to believe that a 265/75/16 will fit without scrubbing or rubbing with a 0 or - offset rim could someone please clarify this please as i really dont want to waste money here.

I am from a import sports car back ground and haven't had any experience in modifying 4wd vehicles and looking to get things right the first time with minimal expense in saying that i am not the one to buy ebay shit.




thanks scottie

 

[Old.Tony]

Welcome to the forum, Scottie.

The main trails in the Watagans and Barringtons can be done in a 2WD (we've done both in a Suzuki Cino).

The side trails won't need a body lift - you'll need to get your chassis higher to improve the ramp-over. The body lift will give you clearance from your wheels, but a suspension lift will go a long way towards that too - and the suspension lift gets you onto the tracks.

Body lift will require a re-mount of your bullbar and possibly radiator/intercooler/aircon as well.

I've got 265/70R16 BFG ATs on mine - I have seen 265/75s numerous times, it's a popular tyre size. I think it's the 285/75s that require manipulation of the inner guards with a heat gun - the 265s should fit.

Click here to see a garage using that tyre size on standard suspension. Click here to see one with those tyres and a 2" Tough Dog suspension lift. There are plenty more, browse through some garages - you might see some other things you'll want to do to your car too!

I would recommend that you at least fit recovery points to the front and rear on both chassis rails. If you have a 3T hitch at the rear, just get a hitch receiver block for the rear. Take your own straps, bow shackles and dampeners if you are going off-road and if someone's rescuing you, use YOUR gear. At least you can trust your stuff to not break and create problems (like smashing windscreens or causing injuries!).

 

[morticus]

Scottie, you will find there are a few of us on here from Newcastle, keep an eye on the Newcastle thread. I have not had a single issue going to 265/75/16 with mud tyres, and with absoloutely no lift whatsoever. So i guess it will depend almost entirely on the offset steel wheels that you get. I have chosen to just use the factory wheels, as they have given me no problems. Im sure the general consensus regarding suspension vs body lift will definately come out with suspension on top. It actually increases the off road ability, instead of just lifting the body to clear the wheels/tyres that it will most likely have no issues clearing anyway. You shouldnt have an issue with cv angles on a 2" lift, i think you will encounter problems once going past 2" as the coil hat starts to foul on the upper control arms. Im also pretty sure that the ST model has the camber adjustment bolts installed from factory, so you shouldnt have any issues getting your wheel alignment back in check after the lift either. Give us a shout when you heading out somewhere, someone is usually always keen for a drive somewhere, and without all the recovery gear like winch, high lift jack etc, you are better off going with another vehicle. Welcome to the forums, Its an awesome site full of good people.

 

[scottie]

thanks for the reply's guys and yeah i will be buying all new recovery gear, recovery points and under body protection before i go out and i never head out with one vehicle as well. I will look up the Newcastle thread and try to meet up with some of you guys for a day trip. The winch is a pretty big thing on my list but as you know everything that is worth having doesn't come cheap. I haven't had much time to price up the 2inch lift kits but i was looking at old man emu kit for about $1700 supplied and i am yet to price the tough dog kit. As far as fitting the stuff i can do that myself no worries and i was abit worried with the body lift as it seems to me that alot of stuff has to be remounted. With the suspension lift how does the standard brake lines hold up or would it best to upgrade to longer items.

thanks scott

 

[morticus]

You should be fine with 2" suspension and 2" body lift on top. Any higher and i think i would be looking at extended lines. If you have a look through the garages on here you will find some utes that you will want your to look like. Then have a read through their mods, or even shoot them a message. Everyone is more than happy enough to help where they can.