LED reverse/ work lights!!

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ii'm looking at doing this in the very near future, with a two-way switch setup like outlined above, one in the cab and one in the tray, also in the tray i'm planning on having the second battery in my (eventual) dual battery setup, an extra lighter socket or two, as well as possibly a 240v inverter; with a master switch in the cab to totally disconnect power to the entire tray setup.
The previous owner of the vehicle ran a very thick gauge cable and an anderson plug out to the tray, so using and modifying that to do what i need shouldn't be too hard.
 
Ok guys super electrical question regarding reverse lights.
Got 2x 10w led work lights putting out 900-1000lumens. Wanting to wire them in as worklights, so activated from a switch in the cab and in the tub and also i want them to switch on when reverse is selected, but i want to be able to override the reverse engagemdmt and turn them off from the cab. So i would need a 3way switch in the cab and 2way in the tub. Maybe 2-3relays wired somehow to work. Anyone know how i can wire wire this in? I cant seem to find any diagrams to do this sort of configuration?
Rusty
 
Ok guys super electrical question regarding reverse lights.
Got 2x 10w led work lights putting out 900-1000lumens. Wanting to wire them in as worklights, so activated from a switch in the cab and in the tub and also i want them to switch on when reverse is selected, but i want to be able to override the reverse engagemdmt and turn them off from the cab. So i would need a 3way switch in the cab and 2way in the tub. Maybe 2-3relays wired somehow to work. Anyone know how i can wire wire this in? I cant seem to find any diagrams to do this sort of configuration?
Rusty

Yeh sounds about right. I suppose if you put a relay from your reverse lights to the back lights which will make them work when reverse is selected. Then you run a switch with a relay off that to the lights to make them work that way the circuit is broken when selecting the switch and your not in reverse and vise versa.. I'd put a fuse on each line with power to your lights just incase.. I think if you have the reverse lights on and the switch on you might blow a fuse but I'm not too sure.. Hope that helps mate.. Oh and by the way for the switch in the tub I think the best way is to just brake the active lines into the switches but by doing this you would have to have them on in the tub to make the inside one work if u know what I mean.. Man your setup is complicated lol
 
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Ahaha thanks . Just been doing diagrams and scanning the net which is making it harder. Ive also made it harder for myself by wanting to put switches to each worklight instesd of one switch for both. Should be interestiing. Any assisstance from auto eledtricians would be sweet.
 
So when you say a switch in the cab and tub do you mean you want the switch in the cab to turn the lights on or provide power to the switch in the tub so that you use that switch to turn the lights on? You have power in your tub so were you going to power them from there and just relay off the reverse lights for your reverse power?
 
So when you say a switch in the cab and tub do you mean you want the switch in the cab to turn the lights on or provide power to the switch in the tub so that you use that switch to turn the lights on? You have power in your tub so were you going to power them from there and just relay off the reverse lights for your reverse power?

Wanting to switch on and off from the cab but also be able to switch on and off from the tub. Was also wanting the switch on the cab to work the reverse switch.

3way switch to contain as below
1. Manual override from cab
2. Off
3. Reverse engagement
 
I'm am sure I will need 2relays to work in with the extra reverse selection. I will also need to be able to turn the lights on from a seperate switch next to the work lights(what I originally said as in the tub). Not wanting to run it off the aux battery as I'd rather it run off the main batteries
 
I Installed a relay with a piggy back terminal on the coil side (one terminal from the switch in the cabin and one terminal from the switch in the tub). The switches only turn on the relay coil the actual power for the lights come from the second battery (well that's the idea)
cheers Max
 
Yeah, I get that, but to save on a lot of wiring you could run it from the alternator feed side of your isolator, then it will run from the main battery.

So, 1 switch in the cab will turn both lights on or usable for reverse, then 1 switch at each light that can turn the light on independently of the other one?
 
Do you want to be able to turn them on and off at both ends?
If yes, than you need a 3 way switch as you mentioned. But why do yo want to go that far? The switches will be only 3 meters apart from each other....
 
Yeh sounds bout right. The 40amp circuit breakers in the main feed won't be affected by the extra load. U know the lights only use .7-.8 amps each. As for the reverse engagement is that not a seperate feed. So the way I'm thinking the sequence will work is as below.

1. Manual override - lights turn on from this switch using power from main battery.
2. Off - off when selected, but can turn lights on separately using the extra switches(does this mean extra relay?
3. Lights are activated only when reverse gear is selected.

Any chance you have a wiring diagram that will help me out?
 
Working on it now, lol. You should be OK with just 1 relay though looking at it at the moment. When I work it out I'll post it up
 
OK it will work easily with a 5 pin spst relay (standard ones from supercheap) just with a bit of creativity, I'll take a photo of this diagram and post it up then you can tell me what you reckon
 
Working on it now, lol. You should be OK with just 1 relay though looking at it at the moment. When I work it out I'll post it up

Your an absolute champion. Hoping to have the custom roof mount solar panel and lights done within the next few weeks. No reason I can't get the wiring sorted out before hand.

Thanks in advance

Rusty
 
OK it will work easily with a 5 pin spst relay (standard ones from supercheap) just with a bit of creativity, I'll take a photo of this diagram and post it up then you can tell me what you reckon

A spdt wouldn't be easier. Giving me the extra power output. Unsure with the single point single throw and double throw stuff.
 

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