Installing a turbo in a QD32

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Just went by the wreckers. The only parts off a TD27 they have is the sump and the block. Looks like I might have to find a place to add a part on.
What I was thinking of doing was using these parts to create a T off the Aircon heater hose feed as the return for the hot water.
My only concern is that it may be a restricted flow as I won't have the heater gate open so no coolant would be flowing through there.
IMG_20111019_154105.jpg


I have decided to change where I will be sending the oil from to the turbo unit thanks to the picture that Tweak'e posted earlier.
It seems like more of a viable point as it would be getting pressure from the oil being pumped to (or from?) the filter.
Here is a picture the updated plan.
IMG_20111019_154227.jpg


Also the dump pipe is done and after much screwing around and getting the dump pipe changed. everything is bolted together. Here's a pic for those interested.
IMG_20111019_162712.jpg
 
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tap both heater hoses. the catch here is you need to have them the right way around so water will flow from thermal effect when engine is off. turbo centre has to be the correct way for that to work as well.
instructions on garrets web site.
 
That was my original idea but I ended up think that since it was a heater they would both be running hot water.
I am starting to think the drain plug would be the way to go as it is off the block so it would have enough pressure to send water up to the turbo and would be colder than going from the heeater.
 
water temp makes bugger all difference. from memory i think water temp rise across the turbo is only a few degrees. most factory turbos are simply tapped off the heater lines anyway. only bad thing could be that its diverting flow away from heater so heater may run a little cooler. more so if its a ball bearing turbo and has lots of water flow to cater for lack of oil cooling.
 
Hmm well that might be the way to go then. There are also Y adaptors so that is what I would use on thw other heater hose. The turbo bloke said that on my turbo it does not matter which way the water flows as it is pretty much straight around and back out.
I dont mind if there is a slight drop in the heater temp as I live in queensland and would rather live some where 10 degrees colder all year round.

Now I will have to wait for the reducer hose to arrive in the mail and I should be set to go.
When I install it I am planning on doing a service as well. So complete drain of coolant, and oil. Change fuel and oil filter and filler her up good to go.
Does anyone know a good Diesel tuner in the gold coast region as I would like to get it dynod and tuned to suit the turbo. On that matter what is the standard air to fuel ration for a Qd32?
 
how the water is setup is important. primary reason for water is to stop heat soak. so water needs to flow when engine is turned off. water will only circulate without the pump going if its plumbed just right ie uses natural convection etc.

air/fual ratio is not static on a diesel. only thing is not to rich, easy to tell useing egt guage.

the problem you will have is you have no boost compensator. thats going to limit how much you wind the fuel up and you will have to be easy on the throttle untill boost comes on.
 
Ah ok. Yeah I thought it would be getting over fueld if I had it wound up. Thats is why I would like to get it tuned.

Do you think that by using both the heater hoses it would allow for the water to flow once the engine is turned off? The Turbo is a T25 if you know anything about the water setup on them. Cheers Tweak'e
 
It been a while since an update but the reducer hose I was waiting for in the mail has just arrived so off with the exhaust and on with the turbo. Spent thisarvo getting the extractors out and dummie fitting the turbo. Here is a pic.
IMG_20111103_172918.jpg


I will be going out tomorrow to get the Oil sender hose now I have the measurements and the return hose as well. I have a fairly busy weekend ahead so this might turn out to be a week long job. I will take plenty of photos so everyone can see the process I went through.
 
Not to jump the gun but I want to know if you guys use the ecu out of a turbo motor or your stock motor or chip it,also did you'll change to bigger injectors to make up for the extra air![Please don't get mad,there is never a dumb question]
 
no need to change injectors for such small increases. generally you need to be pushing some big power to worry about injector size. also big injectors can cause problems from firing to much fuel to soon.
 
I am planning on using the stock setup and taking it to get dyno tuned.
I am a fan of mechanical injection so no ECU for me thanks.
 
So some of these truck don't have engine ecu's.Also how much boost came the stock internal take before up grading!Do you have to use an intercooler[p.s thanks]
 
Correct mate. The Australian version did not come out with an ECU.
I will only be using around 10PSI so I am not to sure how much you can put through without things going haywire. If you are looking to push some serious power I would recommend upgrading the internals first.
You do not need to use an intercooler but it does help, Not only for cooling air but also for protecting the motor if the turbo decides to crap out.
 
Correct mate. The Australian version did not come out with an ECU.
I will only be using around 10PSI so I am not to sure how much you can put through without things going haywire. If you are looking to push some serious power I would recommend upgrading the internals first.
You do not need to use an intercooler but it does help, Not only for cooling air but also for protecting the motor if the turbo decides to crap out.

Thanks,I am already in the process of taking the interior apart....So am gonnafind out if mines is the same too,if so it will save me alot of headache:sarcastic:[clean and simple just the way I like it]:dancing:
 
Just dropped mine off to get the exhaust done. 3" straight through mandrel bent. total $650.
Not to bad but I will see how much it is when I pick it up. Might be able to get a bit off.

I am not a fan of stacks on Dual Cabs. Which is why I chose the straight through.

Anyway for those interested I will be taking pictures and doing a bit of a write up on how I installed it.
The sound is awesome and the power is great. I have to floored it yet as I am still waiting on the heat proofing to arrive in the mail.
So far I have had the EGT up to 300C and the Boost to 8PSI.
Have not installed the intercooler yet as that will be more work and I need my car back on the road by Monday.
 
IMG_20111112_092420.jpg

Oil feed and Return on the Block.

IMG_20111112_092439.jpg

Air in from 80 series air box.

IMG_20111112_092451.jpg


IMG_20111112_092544.jpg

EGT and PSI.


So I hope this helps. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask. I think the photos are a good guide as it is.

I changed the fuel and oil filters while I was putting the turbo in.
The oil I used was HPR15D.
I am yet to install the intercooler and have been thinking about getting a larger one to front mount.
The black flexi hose I used for the air is Diesel Exhaust Hose for boats which I purchased from my local hose shop Hose Suppliers Australia.
They have been bloody helpful throughout this mod and even had a laugh about a few stuff ups I had made in measurements.

So what to learn from.
If you want a turbo done quick and easy. Get it done by a diesel shop.
If you want some fun while putting your turbo in then DIY is the way to go.
I had great fun and it was a good learning experience for me.
Just the heat shielding to go one now. I have purchased a Turbo Blanket and Exhaust Wrapping.

Anything I would change?
Probably where the water feed and return come from on the motor side of things as I am not entirely happy with it.
Defiantly does the job though as I can feel warm coolant in the lines once the motor had been running.

What to remember.
Top up your Oil and Coolant after you run it for a bit.
Don't get to excited and take off forgetting to do heat proofing as this is a must to keep the engine bay temperatures down and the engine healthy.
Get your engine tuned after to make sure the Air/Fuel ratio is right.


Think that's about it. Thanks to everyone for their help and I hope this (sort of) Guide helps people out.

-Brodie
 

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