Hot front hubs?

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Struth! So my only option is to replace them at $460 a side? If they're a sealed unit what's the life expectancy of them?
 
Dunno how that works.... I was at least charged for a clean and repack on my 2010 at the 40k service... and it's on the service book for every 40k clean and repack...
 
you could be right bods. i just looked for d22 front wheel bearings online.and fzrr if it is a complete unit i seen em for $105 per side. dont know what the qualities like but $460 a side seems steep
 
id be ringing nissan with ur vin and just checking. i have a d40 so not real sure. only going by what i can see online
 
So... look at the line under the title
 

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Seeing its not real clear... it says front hub assembly d40 navara....


Hahahahahhahaaha

Good old ebay
 
Is the grease still fully moving if the hubs aren't locked though? I remember when I bought it they said to drive the first 500km with the front hubs locked so that the grease works its way around.

Wheel bearings are still turning, it's the hubs that are separate, and need to be locked in occasionally to keep it free
 
Rang Nissan and also CBC bearings and they say you can buy the bearings and seals so I guess it's not the same sealed unit as the D40.

It appears that Allied bearings is the only place that quotes the same number as the D40 for a whole hub assembly with abs.
 
Good result then I guess... just goes to show that the first answer you get isn't always right...
 
So do you need a force gauge to test the spin of the hub after reassembly or is it safe enough crank it tight then spin it forwards and back then loosen it off and then torque to the manual specs?
 
So do you need a force gauge to test the spin of the hub after reassembly or is it safe enough crank it tight then spin it forwards and back then loosen it off and then torque to the manual specs?


That's pretty much what iv always done, I don't always torque it either usually just do it up with my hands using the speciality tool and Bobs your aunty. But I'm more of a backyard mechanic.
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0CH0GtAUoA
Like this but grease the bearings properly not just wipe grease on the outside.
No need to put 10mm grease coating on the spindle either.
Or half a cup in the free wheeling hub - this will cause the hub to either not engage freely, only partially engage or not release properly as it is partially glued up with grease.

Also loosen and tighten the allen bolts on the hub with the wheel is on the ground- much easier.

and NEVER EVER UNDO a bolt with a torque wrench it stuffs the calibration. Tighten only!!!!!
 
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