fuel economy improvements for D22
- Thread starter nernstie
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improve the breathing, higher flowing air filter setup.
higher flowing exhaust.
tire pressures.
don't have roof rails or spotlights on top.
some have found adding a fuel lift pump helps.
but remember that its all only a minor improvement.
higher flowing exhaust.
tire pressures.
don't have roof rails or spotlights on top.
some have found adding a fuel lift pump helps.
but remember that its all only a minor improvement.
180degrees
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Your thinking of kinetic energy I think, 1/2MV^2 5^2 is 25 but 10^2 is 100
drag is likely a non linear function of speed versus air resistance.
Solanum1
Member
My 02' DX dual cab is petty much stock standard under the bonnet. ZD30, now up to 186K.
I travel from Gordonvale (near Cairns) to Mareeba 5 days a week, which works out to be around 170/180km per day, which includes range driving (Kuranda & Gillies range).
I'm getting 600/620km per tank which I think is good. I will admit though on the open road I will sit under 100km (95 most of the time) at around 2300/2400rpm. I run 245/75/16 Yokohama's which I believe makes somewhat of a difference.
Brother in law has a tricked up 04' STR with bells and whistles, but has the 265/75 muddies and a Steinbauer chip and is pretty much sitting right on my fuel consumption as well. We both like the ZD30's for power and fuel.
Honestly, I just think its the way you drive them. I take note of just about every D22 I pass in town or if I'm walking up the street etc. Some D22 drivers just aren't 'in the know' and half-hammer these thing by changing gear at 3000/3500 revs and don't smoothly accelerate etc or just tear around corners. Diesels aren't Skylines.
I travel from Gordonvale (near Cairns) to Mareeba 5 days a week, which works out to be around 170/180km per day, which includes range driving (Kuranda & Gillies range).
I'm getting 600/620km per tank which I think is good. I will admit though on the open road I will sit under 100km (95 most of the time) at around 2300/2400rpm. I run 245/75/16 Yokohama's which I believe makes somewhat of a difference.
Brother in law has a tricked up 04' STR with bells and whistles, but has the 265/75 muddies and a Steinbauer chip and is pretty much sitting right on my fuel consumption as well. We both like the ZD30's for power and fuel.
Honestly, I just think its the way you drive them. I take note of just about every D22 I pass in town or if I'm walking up the street etc. Some D22 drivers just aren't 'in the know' and half-hammer these thing by changing gear at 3000/3500 revs and don't smoothly accelerate etc or just tear around corners. Diesels aren't Skylines.
Mate I'd be taking it back saying fix it, my 2012 d22 gets 8l/100 around town which is usually 60-80kms/hr and on the freeway doing 110kms it's around 9l/100. That's with standard tyres, 2" lift bull bar and tow bar, roof racks, 45000kms on the clock.
I don't think I ever Change gears before 3000 revs but I don't hammer it there either, I let it climb lean then change. That way I don't have to labour the next gear it just flows. When my wife is driving she changes gears at 1800 and it frustrates the crap out of me. And saying that nine times out of ten I get more k's out of a tank than she can.
Teleman191
Member
Probably the best way to drive em considering the ratios. Only when it's warmed up though.
Bulldog
Member
My '13 D22 2.5 30,000klm gets roughly 700klm to a tank. That's with, Steel bulbar, spotties, winch, canopy, roof racks, fridge in back and a lot of camping gear. From stock with no mods. I could get 750+klm to a tank driving like a granny.
I do change gears at the 2250rpm mark though. Except first where I change at 2000rpm mark. That's gradual climbing to speed and early breaking. Most of my driving is highway and stop/start.
I'm yet to do a tank with the EGR mod and chip but by weeks end I will know the difference and week after that what a snorkel would do for fuel economy.
I do change gears at the 2250rpm mark though. Except first where I change at 2000rpm mark. That's gradual climbing to speed and early breaking. Most of my driving is highway and stop/start.
I'm yet to do a tank with the EGR mod and chip but by weeks end I will know the difference and week after that what a snorkel would do for fuel economy.
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post up your comparisons, will be interesting to see if the chip changes anything.
you could try timing your 0-100 before and after for a power comparison.
Bulldog
Member
Well went through a tank with chip and egr. Was 650klm to 61L Which is worse then last tank at 700klm from 66L
Mind you that I wasnt being as gentle this time and had car running for a few long periodes without moving.
Mind you that I wasnt being as gentle this time and had car running for a few long periodes without moving.
mickymac
Member
Had my D22 since March, got 5000k on clock nissan bullbar, IPFspotties, Nissan snorkel other than the standard, I went to Lakes Entrance from Broadmeadows Victoria got 9.17L/100km very impressed
Teleman191
Member
Funny story bout that. When I picked up my nav the hubs were locked. I put them to free straight away and asked the mechanic when it had its 1000 km service. He told me they are actually designed to be locked for the first 1000 kms. Whoops. Oh well I've done well over 1000 k with them locked now though.
In the owners manual say 300klms & 20klm a month after that,just to keep things lubed.
Teleman191
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Yeah I have all ways run my hubs like that (on the trol too) for that exact reason. I just thought it amusing that I wasn't told the hubs are to be in when I leave the shop floor. And locked for the first 1000kms shocked me as well
180degrees
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having them locked for the first 1000km seems a bit strange? I get massive vibrations over about 90km/h with them locked in but in 2wd so I always run them in the "Free" position.
I know heaps of guys that did the first 1000km with the hubs in and then would lock the hubs every now & then if they had not been off road for a while when free wheeling hubs and or solid axles were more common, i still do that with my Ln106 Hilux.
It obviously was allot more common when all 4x4's had free wheeling hubs & or solid axles,
And in all reality i would prefer my front end to have had a bit of easy use bedding/meshing everything in before i lock up the hubs a put it through the test in an actual 4x4 situation.
Doesnt seem strange to me at all, and as i said i think its easy enough to do and can't hurt.
It obviously was allot more common when all 4x4's had free wheeling hubs & or solid axles,
And in all reality i would prefer my front end to have had a bit of easy use bedding/meshing everything in before i lock up the hubs a put it through the test in an actual 4x4 situation.
Doesnt seem strange to me at all, and as i said i think its easy enough to do and can't hurt.
Says 300klm in owners manual.Hugh
