EGR Pipe

[Ewood11]

Hi all. Went on a small road trip recently and the EGR pipe on my D40 shat itself. Poured coolant out everywhere. I took it to a local shop and the guy did a quick fix to by pass it. It got me home. So I was on the internet looking for a decent aftermarket pipe. The dealership ones kick off at $1300NZ. But I came across a you tube clip saying you can buy a by pass kit and do away with the EGR altogether? If I go some this route, that is significantly cheaper then even the aftermarket pipes, does this have any significant problems further down the line? Also does my ECU need re-programming? Cheers.

 

[Old.Tony]

Hi all. Went on a small road trip recently and the EGR pipe on my D40 shat itself. Poured coolant out everywhere. I took it to a local shop and the guy did a quick fix to by pass it. It got me home. So I was on the internet looking for a decent aftermarket pipe. The dealership ones kick off at $1300NZ. But I came across a you tube clip saying you can buy a by pass kit and do away with the EGR altogether? If I go some this route, that is significantly cheaper then even the aftermarket pipes, does this have any significant problems further down the line? Also does my ECU need re-programming? Cheers.

Depends on the year model. If it's 2013 or older you're likely to get away with just blanking the EGR off (at either end, or both ends if you want to take the pipe out altogether). Then you'd just put a joiner in the coolant lines and be done with it. The older cars won't throw a code because they don't check the flow.

 

[Ewood11]

Depends on the year model. If it's 2013 or older you're likely to get away with just blanking the EGR off (at either end, or both ends if you want to take the pipe out altogether). Then you'd just put a joiner in the coolant lines and be done with it. The older cars won't throw a code because they don't check the flow.

Cheers old Tony. Thanks for the reply. Mine is a 2008. I’ve seen this blanking plate kit online. It’s just a cheaper alternative to buying a new pipe. And if there’s no issues just bypassing it I’ll go some this route.

 

[Ewood11]

Sorry I should add mine is a Spanish D40.

 

[Gavand]

How many K's my mech just told me i need to replace mine 2011 D40 208000Km on it.

 

[Gavand]

He also said I need a new radiator but it looks fine and not using coolant.

 

[Old.Tony]

Radiator can look fine, but a thermal image (many mechanics have these tools) would reveal areas that aren't heating up as expected (which means they're blocked). You can get decent aftermarket radiators, just be sure to have the air bled from the system before you drive it too much.

 

[Gavand]

Thanks Tony

 

[Ewood11]

Cheers old Tony. Thanks for the reply. Mine is a 2008. I’ve seen this blanking plate kit online. It’s just a cheaper alternative to buying a new pipe. And if there’s no issues just bypassing it I’ll go some this route.

Just following on from the EGR issue. I ran out of coolant when the pipe crapped out and I just ripped it up with water to get me home. So I need to drain whatever is left in there and top it up again. When doing a full system flush do I have to remove the thermostat or can I leave it in situ?

 

[Old.Tony]

Just following on from the EGR issue. I ran out of coolant when the pipe crapped out and I just ripped it up with water to get me home. So I need to drain whatever is left in there and top it up again. When doing a full system flush do I have to remove the thermostat or can I leave it in situ?

You could pop it out to do a faster job (the flush won't flow quickly past the thermostat with the engine cold), but for a reduction in spanner time you could drop the flush in and idle the engine for a while - it'd probably be faster overall anyway!

 

[Ewood11]

You could pop it out to do a faster job (the flush won't flow quickly past the thermostat with the engine cold), but for a reduction in spanner time you could drop the flush in and idle the engine for a while - it'd probably be faster overall anyway!

You could pop it out to do a faster job (the flush won't flow quickly past the thermostat with the engine cold), but for a reduction in spanner time you could drop the flush in and idle the engine for a while - it'd probably be faster overall anyway!

Cheers Old Tony. Forgive me for being thick. So I’m thinking, drain all the coolant and then turn on the garden hose into the radiator and then let the engine idle while it runs through then Turn off the engine and let the last of the water run out, then top up with coolant?

 

[Old.Tony]

Cheers Old Tony. Forgive me for being thick. So I’m thinking, drain all the coolant and then turn on the garden hose into the radiator and then let the engine idle while it runs through then Turn off the engine and let the last of the water run out, then top up with coolant?

That's certainly one way of doing it. Once the water starts coming out clear you're pretty much done. Radiator should take around 10 litres if I recall correctly, so your bucket ought to be sized appropriately.

That same bucket, by the way, is the size you'd choose for a drinking container once your doctor limits you to just one drink a day, so keep it handy - don't throw it away!

 

[Ewood11]

That's certainly one way of doing it. Once the water starts coming out clear you're pretty much done. Radiator should take around 10 litres if I recall correctly, so your bucket ought to be sized appropriately.

That same bucket, by the way, is the size you'd choose for a drinking container once your doctor limits you to just one drink a day, so keep it handy - don't throw it away!

Haha nice one Old Tony. I think I’ll need 2 buckets then. There’s no way I’d cut down to that little amount of beer. Just one other thing? The coolant that was in the radiator from the last service was green but in the Haynes manual it says blue? I’ve been on this forum before about this topic and the general consensus is to replace like for like?

 

[Rice]

Just a side note regarding the radiators. If your radiator has a plastic top, may be grey or greenish colour, and the top has a whitish colour on it, recommendation is replace the radiator, once the white appears there is an average of 5000 k's before the radiator becomes terminal.

 

[Old.Tony]

Haha nice one Old Tony. I think I’ll need 2 buckets then. There’s no way I’d cut down to that little amount of beer. Just one other thing? The coolant that was in the radiator from the last service was green but in the Haynes manual it says blue? I’ve been on this forum before about this topic and the general consensus is to replace like for like?

The idea behind changing like-for-like in coolants is so that there's no chance of creating a chemical reaction between the different additives in the coolant. The cooling system is extensive - it goes through the radiator, engine block, heater matrix in the cabin, EGR tube and the turbocharger. You could flush the system (very very well) and change to a different type if you wished, but to play it safe you'd continue using what you used last time.

The trick is to find the right balance. I'm using 33% coolant. Water is a better thermal conductor than coolant (the coolant isn't there to cool the engine, it's there to modify the thermal properties of the water) so the more water, the better it transfers heat.