EGR pipe removal YD25

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Yeah could be. My gauge runs off the waste gate line on the turbo side of the controller so I will get a slightly higher reading than what the motor is getting
 
Yeah thats where mine is now. Gonna tap it into the intercooler piping today and see if it makes a difference
 
Did you consider removing the entire EGR valve body /casting and just leaving the electrical connector hanging ?
 
Yeah I did, only reason why I didn't remove it was I thought it would throw an engine code and I didn't have the right size piping to bypass the coolant line that runs through the EGR valve. I may look at this week when I have some time.
 
Ok taken it another step further and actually removed the EGR solenoid completely



I simply took the solenoid off and put the blocking plate I bought from YD25.com back on with shorter bolts, they were M8 x 1.25, 20mm long from memory. Just make sure you use a gasket to stop leaks.



Solenoid gone!



All you have to do is bypass the 2 heater hoses with a single hose, I cannot remember the exact diameter but if you take the stock hose to any coupling shop they should have plenty of it in stock. I had some spare lying around at home, only need about 15cm of it. I reused the clips form the solenoid. I just cut the wires and taped them up, engine runs fine with no fault codes and doesn't go into limp mode.

 
Purpose of this mod was to free up room in engine bay and to allow me to fit a bigger cranking batter if needed. Can now fit a 105A/hr battery which is 330mm long if needed
 
D22's are different to the D40's im guessing? Did you try closing the circuit to trick the ECU into thinking it was still there?
 
My Egr blanking plate+Tube removal

Hey guys whats supp recently i found out the welds on my egr tube was broken ,the welds got porous. As i saw ur post i figured id share what i did hoping it would help someone.

1/4 STEEL PLATE
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I've managed to remove the last bit of the EGR so it is now completely gone from the manifold to the intake. The last bit was a real headache to remove the alternator tensioning bracket to get to it.

I then cut the EGR off this bracket and reinstalled it. Will post some pics later in the day. The only reason I did this was I had to take to top radiator hose mount off the block to drill and tap a water temp sensor and to remove this required me to pull so much crap off to get to the bloody bolts!!!
 
it would have been alot safer [ fine wise ] if you left all in tact and just blocked off both ends of the pipe, the stainless block off plates do look like the stock plate when all is fitted . one look under the bonnet by the DPT and your gone.
 
My Nav is my race truck, I don't drive it on the road anymore so legality isn't an issue for me
 
Brilliant, after reading this I am now considering doing this mod to my 09 D22, will it upset the ECU?
 
I then cut the EGR off this bracket and reinstalled it. Will post some pics later in the day.

I have been thinking of doing exactly this just last weekend. I take it you just used an anglegrinder and cut the upper EGR part off. Please do post a picture or two.

My plan was to do this on my D22 model, because then all the EGR pipes would be fitted with only 4 bolts and the valve cable. I don't think the EGR needs to be a part of its bracket to function. It would make the EGR easy to remove and replace with two blanks, and to put back on whenever if needed.

Like this?
EGRbracket.png


I also found this video of someone who seems to have done something similar. No EGR pipe and the bracket have been cut even more:
 
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I just cleaned out my intercooler and intake manifold of what I am pretty sure wasn't just a 5mm layer of "black air".
Thanks EGR and PCV. The reason to keep the EGR would be for emissions inspection. Living in Sweden, btw.

As I see it, the engine would be easier to wrench on without the EGR. And maybe some benefit for the turbo. And less heat infront of the engine. It's also weight reduction. And it's less surface to accumulate dirt. Or just one less thing to look at. And if it does increase fuel-efficiency just the slightest with no extra cost, I'm gonna give it a try.

I can't think of a reason to keep it bolted to the engine except for inspection day. I dunno. Someone could maybe chime in with a real good reason.
 
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EGR - Exhaust Gas Recirculation - is designed specifically to lower combustion temperatures by starving the cylinder of oxygen (exhaust gas is mostly CO2, some CO, very small amounts of O2). Oxides of nitrogen are produced at high temperatures and EGR is an attempt at avoiding their creation - whereas devices like the catalytic converter (CAT) are designed to remove oxides of nitrogen from the exhaust stream as it passes (it is only partially effective, hence the reason for the EGR - to prevent NOx in the first place).

So, it inhibits combustion. That means you use more fuel than you should, to produce power. Blocking it does, however, mean your combustion temps will rise - try not to let your coolant temp exceed 105C at the most (that's what I do, and after 352,000km without any major engine internal change it's still running smoothly).

I hope that answers the question of what it is. As for the penalty for removing it - if memory serves, for an indivitual, it was something like $13,500. This may have changed since I viewed the NSW legislation.
 
the catalytic converter (CAT) are designed to remove oxides of nitrogen from the exhaust stream as it passes
Sorry mate. I gotta pull you up on that one. the purpose of the Catalytic Converter is to turn Carbon Monoxide into Carbon Dioxide. Everything else you stated is spot on.

There is huge fines for blocking it. Having said that I did block mine from new. Well straight after the first 1000K check. Did the inlet side and you'd be going to see that I did without removing the pipe.

To remove the pipe altogether your just asking to pinged. Prolly be ok with common duties cops they only notice anything bright and shiny that has bee added but if a transport inspector goes though you like a dose of salts you will be done.
 

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