Egr block
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Only a couple bolts on that pipe.. undo them and if you making a plate up there is a gasket- kinda like a template.
subz123
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Gasket Goo the F*CK outta both sides? When reinstalling?
subz123
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Yer there is for some reason i know its noraml for oil in the air pipes installimg catch can this week what do use reackon if i do a manifold clean
Don't use normal gasket goo, use Permatex Ultra Blue. Both sides for sure, not too much but enough to seal it up - you've got an obvious leak there!
subz123
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Im not understanding so i should put that glue on the blanking plate both sides
Yes, the Ultra Blue should be on BOTH sides.
The exhaust side obviously seals up the exhaust so that there's no leak which could not only be dangerous but if it gets large enough will impact on performance. The intake side needs to be sealed to prevent boost leaks. It's not normal to have any leak, anywhere in the engine bay!
The exhaust side obviously seals up the exhaust so that there's no leak which could not only be dangerous but if it gets large enough will impact on performance. The intake side needs to be sealed to prevent boost leaks. It's not normal to have any leak, anywhere in the engine bay!
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Wow i dont know if im tripping out or not but ever since i glued the egr blanking plate my ute drives heaps better thanks boys thanks old tony allways a pleasure ☺
Welcome to the forum, Steve.
That's entirely up to you. You could play with the air, it will help:
* Remove baffles from inside the air filter box. It will add a little induction noise and remove an intake restriction. You don't get a lot of gain from this.
* Remove baffles from the charge air hose. This sits on the passneger side of the engine just out from the turbocharger. Remove it, it does NOTHING to aid performance, it's there to remove sound (both induction noise and turbo whine). Removing it won't give you a lot of gain, but it will take out two hose joins and give you an excuse to do the next step.
* Replace ALL of the charge air hose with something a little more substantial. Either go silicone hose or hard pipe, but be aware that the intercooler is mounted firmly on the vehicle body and the turbocharger is mounted on the engine, so the hoses HAVE to have some flex in them (this is where TMICs have a definite advantage). You may reduce the turbo lag by a small amount by doing this, but won't get any measurable performance gain from it.
* Fit a catch can. This will catch MOST of the oil coming out of the PCV outlet. You won't get a noticeable gain for doing this but you will stop the oil from clogging up the intercooler.
* Clean the intercooler. Remove it, pour in about half a litre of petrol and shake it for a minute or so. Empty it, repeat until the petrol coming out is the same colour as the petrol going in.
If you're keen, remove the MAFS and clean it. Warning: it's a $400 part, so treat it like it's easy to break (because it is). Never EVER poke anything in the little hole, that's where the sensor is located. Spray electrical contact cleaner (or MAFS cleaner, same sh1t different label) into the hole until it runs clear, then hold it in the open air for about a minute while the remains of the cleaner evaporates.
If you're after power, you can do lots of things.
1) Chip. Don't bugger your engine with a cheapy. Either get a Unichip or a Steinbauer. Anything else is risking the engine, and they're about $10K to replace. Expect somewhere in the 20-40% power gain. Chips WILL cause your fuel consumption to rise if you take advantage of the power for speed. You can take advantage of the power for economy too - it's up to you. Most people like the extra punch.
2) Diesel Gas. It's basically an LPG tank with a nozzle that injects LPG into the intake manifold. Diesel gas will give you somewhere between 30 and 40% power gain - without using any extra fuel (but your fuel consumption will go up if you insist on using that extra power at the traffic lights).
3) Alcohol Injection. Once you've done this and a W2A intercooler with water injection added, you're ready for the Bathurst 12 Hour, and should be developing some very serious power. At this point you should be also considering a diff swap from the Nissan Titan, and to fit it you'll need a Calmini suspension kit. May as well get Artic Truck guards while you're at it, because with the Titan rear axle your stock wheels will protrude too far beyond the guards.
That's entirely up to you. You could play with the air, it will help:
* Remove baffles from inside the air filter box. It will add a little induction noise and remove an intake restriction. You don't get a lot of gain from this.
* Remove baffles from the charge air hose. This sits on the passneger side of the engine just out from the turbocharger. Remove it, it does NOTHING to aid performance, it's there to remove sound (both induction noise and turbo whine). Removing it won't give you a lot of gain, but it will take out two hose joins and give you an excuse to do the next step.
* Replace ALL of the charge air hose with something a little more substantial. Either go silicone hose or hard pipe, but be aware that the intercooler is mounted firmly on the vehicle body and the turbocharger is mounted on the engine, so the hoses HAVE to have some flex in them (this is where TMICs have a definite advantage). You may reduce the turbo lag by a small amount by doing this, but won't get any measurable performance gain from it.
* Fit a catch can. This will catch MOST of the oil coming out of the PCV outlet. You won't get a noticeable gain for doing this but you will stop the oil from clogging up the intercooler.
* Clean the intercooler. Remove it, pour in about half a litre of petrol and shake it for a minute or so. Empty it, repeat until the petrol coming out is the same colour as the petrol going in.
If you're keen, remove the MAFS and clean it. Warning: it's a $400 part, so treat it like it's easy to break (because it is). Never EVER poke anything in the little hole, that's where the sensor is located. Spray electrical contact cleaner (or MAFS cleaner, same sh1t different label) into the hole until it runs clear, then hold it in the open air for about a minute while the remains of the cleaner evaporates.
If you're after power, you can do lots of things.
1) Chip. Don't bugger your engine with a cheapy. Either get a Unichip or a Steinbauer. Anything else is risking the engine, and they're about $10K to replace. Expect somewhere in the 20-40% power gain. Chips WILL cause your fuel consumption to rise if you take advantage of the power for speed. You can take advantage of the power for economy too - it's up to you. Most people like the extra punch.
2) Diesel Gas. It's basically an LPG tank with a nozzle that injects LPG into the intake manifold. Diesel gas will give you somewhere between 30 and 40% power gain - without using any extra fuel (but your fuel consumption will go up if you insist on using that extra power at the traffic lights).
3) Alcohol Injection. Once you've done this and a W2A intercooler with water injection added, you're ready for the Bathurst 12 Hour, and should be developing some very serious power. At this point you should be also considering a diff swap from the Nissan Titan, and to fit it you'll need a Calmini suspension kit. May as well get Artic Truck guards while you're at it, because with the Titan rear axle your stock wheels will protrude too far beyond the guards.
Thanks for that, I'm not after power for powers sake but I do tow a Jayco expanda that sits on the road over 2tonne.
We rarely stay on powered sites so we need to carry our water and everything else with us which means weight so a bit more grunt for that would be nice and maybe better economy.
We rarely stay on powered sites so we need to carry our water and everything else with us which means weight so a bit more grunt for that would be nice and maybe better economy.
I hear that. We've got a New Age Manta Ray 19' Bunk van that sits at 2.5T on the road. I've added a third water tank to it so that we always have a supply of good, fresh water. I don't really mind the performance of my (stock-engined) D40, although we are pushing the limits on GVM - my car usually sits around 2500Kg empty, so add us with the fridge and recovery gear and the van's ball weight and we're often nudging the 2980Kg GVM limit.
Joe2006 has also towed a significant amount and would be excellent to provide some very current advice.
That's if Joe's back home yet!
Joe2006 has also towed a significant amount and would be excellent to provide some very current advice.
That's if Joe's back home yet!
Specifically targetting the 4cyl but actually applicable to any engine (except maybe a Briggs & Stratton).
