Pickle445
Member
I’ve just ordered a blank egr gasket for my 2012 yd25. Will I get an engine light after doing it?
EGR Blank Yd25
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I'm going to say its highly unlikely.
It has been reported that some models have a flow sensor.
I doubt you'll have issues
It has been reported that some models have a flow sensor.
I doubt you'll have issues
Did the same on my 8-port YD25 (2013 engine in a 2012 D40), no check engine light and no codes.
Tony.HIGGO
Member
I did the egr delete on my 2008 yd25 d22, no issues or engine lights/codes. There is no sensor in my model to trip a code.
just to clarify. these, or any small diesel that i have seen, do not have an egr flow sensor. soot would foul up a flow sensor in seconds. (some have egr temp sensors)
they detect egr flow from the change in airflow using the maf sensor and they all have maf sensors. open the valve, detect the drop in air flow. the more egr is used the less air that gets used. it just comes down to what the egr flow rate is and how sensitive the software is.
I used a hand cut piece of stainless steel, planted a couple of trees instead.
As I understand it the EGR only opens at low power settings anyway, so it's more of a compliance device than an actual emission-reduction thing.
Happy to be told otherwise though...
My EGR system is fully functional but for a blanking plate and a U-shaped hose that cuts off the EGR cooler- it's a Spanish-build 140kW engine, I believe the D22 setup is different.
I was told I might have to drill a small hole in the plate, 3mm or so, to prevent error codes but that isn't case and the EGR pipe remains completely blocked.
None of the magical power/economy improvements have manifested, but there's less smoke when the throttle is wide open and I hope less sludge in the intake ports.
Happy to be told otherwise though...
My EGR system is fully functional but for a blanking plate and a U-shaped hose that cuts off the EGR cooler- it's a Spanish-build 140kW engine, I believe the D22 setup is different.
I was told I might have to drill a small hole in the plate, 3mm or so, to prevent error codes but that isn't case and the EGR pipe remains completely blocked.
None of the magical power/economy improvements have manifested, but there's less smoke when the throttle is wide open and I hope less sludge in the intake ports.
the egr system does actually reduce Nox emissions, but it also increase soot and other emissions hence the cat and dpf (on new models) to clean that up. the manufacture is required to pass a set standard (au/nz is currently euro5 standard).
what you do with it is a different story and depends on the countries rules/enforcement.
typically egr is off at idle and full throttle. otherwise its on at variable amounts depending on air temp, load etc.
australianoz
Member
My 2 cents, (I swapped to a 2015 on a 2005 R51M). On a 2015 Euro 5 the EGR is paramount to the health of the planet of course, the ECM WILL rely on the EGR to properly fuel your engine and provide the best boost from your turbo whilst keeping the cat and dpf as clean as possible. This ECM algo relies on the intake and the exhaust temperatures to handle both boost and heat required to get the best out of your engine and not burn up the vanes of the turbo when doing so. The 2015 YD25 EGR blocking kits come with a resistor that your need to add in series to the MAF sensor (spliced into the intake temp wire) to provide a bias voltage to trick the ECM into thinking the temp is greater than it actually is (as the temp gets higher, the resistance decreases). On my 2005 ECM no need for that resistor because it has no cat, no exhaust temp, no lambda, no dpf pressure sensors and the turbo (junk as it is) can take a beating. So yes, you can block the EGR on a 2015 Euro spec. but you need that resistor to properly handle the outcome of blocking the EGR.
false.
that makes no sense. also diesel temps never get hot enough to burn up turbo vanes.
it splices into the intake temp sensor which is in the maf and it makes it look like its super cold, so the ecu turns off the egr.
quite correct that the resistance if the temp sensor goes down as it heats up, so by adding a resistor in series you increase the resistance like it would read on a super cold day.
the resistor is used so the egr valve doesn't keep operating, wear out and cause a fault. the plate is not strictly required but handy if egr valve gets stuck open.
all d40's/yd25 have cats, early ones i think are on the back of the turbo.
cats where fitted in the d22 with the introduction of the zd30 back in 2001.
australianoz
Member
Don't concur with "false" reply. The ECM-controlled EGR systems recirculate a parts of exhaust back into the engine's intake manifold, reducing combustion temperatures and minimising NOx emissions. The exhaust temp sensor (if temp is too high) will reduce boost or inject more fuel for the cat, if there is a DPF it monitors that there is enough temperature for its regen. Hence properly trim the fuel to protect and serve.
What i meant "buring up the vanes was" actually heating the stainless or carbon steel vane body enough over time to seize them. I've replaced 5 turbos (GT2026V) on my R51M to know that soot is not the only culprit (granted it's a crap turbo that also leaks coolant in the center housing). On occasion it was possible to unseize and reuse but some just held and had to be replaced entirely.
And yes, my bad. I meant DPF, it does have a CAT.
What i meant "buring up the vanes was" actually heating the stainless or carbon steel vane body enough over time to seize them. I've replaced 5 turbos (GT2026V) on my R51M to know that soot is not the only culprit (granted it's a crap turbo that also leaks coolant in the center housing). On occasion it was possible to unseize and reuse but some just held and had to be replaced entirely.
And yes, my bad. I meant DPF, it does have a CAT.
Pickle445
Member
You guys are confusing me hahah.
Do I need something else other than just the blank gasket? Am I doing more bad then good by blocking it?
Pickle445
Member
Did you do anything else like block the egr cooler? Or is it as simple as put in the blank plateI used a hand cut piece of stainless steel, planted a couple of trees instead.
the plate is fine. plenty have done it on here. i'm sure there is a few write ups around somewhere.
if egt is to high i doubt it reduces boost as that makes egt go up not down. it also won't put more fuel in for the cat. it only injects fuel into the cat to burn soot out of the dpf ie regen. dpf models have egt sensor for controlling dpf temps, very few of the early ones have it for trimming fuel. some have it in the egr tube.
but none of that has to with using the egr to fuel the engine.
no engine that i know of changes the egr to "keep cat and dpf clean" or provide "best performance etc". otherwise it would be turned off all the time.
egr is done for nox emissions only and everything else is done to clean up its mess.
your getting a whole lot of stuff mixed up and back to front.
australianoz
Member
Admittedly I bundled up things too quickly to make proper sense and rooted what i was attempting to express.
What it boils down to is that if you have a model 2015 and up, you need a resistor on the temp wire of the MAF.
As for the "heating" up of the turbo vanes, as i said it was more an expression than reality (although on my 2005 yd25 it did seize the vanes of a GT2056V due to overheating and in one instance burnt the tips of the vanes. I had muddled about with a chinese turbo for the fun of it. The YD25 2005 R51M does not have an egt sensor nor dpf).
It is a fact however that the ECM will trim fuel depending on egts and reduce boost when the temps get to high. Good reads => (https://official.bankspower.com/tech_article/why-egt-is-important/ and https://www.dpfpartsdirect.com/blogs/news/egt-sensors).
The EGR doesn't make for more or less fuel adjustments directly. It is part of the combustion cycle, as it reduces temperatures the egt is obviously affected and that in turn goes back to the statement above. It's a complicated process in modern engines.
What it boils down to is that if you have a model 2015 and up, you need a resistor on the temp wire of the MAF.
As for the "heating" up of the turbo vanes, as i said it was more an expression than reality (although on my 2005 yd25 it did seize the vanes of a GT2056V due to overheating and in one instance burnt the tips of the vanes. I had muddled about with a chinese turbo for the fun of it. The YD25 2005 R51M does not have an egt sensor nor dpf).
It is a fact however that the ECM will trim fuel depending on egts and reduce boost when the temps get to high. Good reads => (https://official.bankspower.com/tech_article/why-egt-is-important/ and https://www.dpfpartsdirect.com/blogs/news/egt-sensors).
The EGR doesn't make for more or less fuel adjustments directly. It is part of the combustion cycle, as it reduces temperatures the egt is obviously affected and that in turn goes back to the statement above. It's a complicated process in modern engines.
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well the D22 and i think even the D40 didn't even make it to 2015. so your not even talking about the utes in question.
some D40's and the D23's have egt sensors and can trim fuel to egt temps. the rest don't have the sensors, so they can't do it.
even on those utes just blanking plates work ok.
the resistor trick is often sold on its own. thats all you need really. its often the easier way to do it.
its only petrol engines that burn out turbo vanes, which is why very few petrol engines use variable turbo's. yes the vanes can get stuck for a few different reasons.
some D40's and the D23's have egt sensors and can trim fuel to egt temps. the rest don't have the sensors, so they can't do it.
even on those utes just blanking plates work ok.
the resistor trick is often sold on its own. thats all you need really. its often the easier way to do it.
its only petrol engines that burn out turbo vanes, which is why very few petrol engines use variable turbo's. yes the vanes can get stuck for a few different reasons.
australianoz
Member
Can't say i entirely agree on that either. D40s went up to 08/15. I should know. That's precisely the engine I shoved into my 2005 R51M, a couple of months ago. I ripped out the D40 EGR, D40 Turbo, D40 Exhaust Manifold (along with it's EGT), flywheel and clutch, rebored the block to fit my RE05, swapped the alternator and Ac bracket, swapped the sump, rerouted the turbo cooling pipes, rerouted the coolant pipes (EU)drivers side, entirely rewired the engine harness, designed and spliced in 3 electronic circuits to interface with the 2005 ECM to handle : the D40 common rail fuel pressure sensor, drop the glowplug voltage from 12V to 7V (@ 35 amps), and the electronic shutoff valve. Wasn't an easy job, but it's in there now. Sure I have a Pathfinder, it ain't a ute, but it drinks diesel all the same. And you may not believe I smoked a turbo by overheating it but since I had planned to swap my Yd25ddti, I pushed it a much as I could to see how much boost I could pull out of it. Yes it died, finally. But I had fun whilst it ran, my wife wasn't too happy though, she was driving it to the shops when a coolant pipe decided to leave the shop, overheated the turbo and snapped the block between pistons 2 and 3 (410000 kms).
