you can run an isolator just fine on the newer d40s you just need to disconnect one small plug on the negative battery terminal. I have done it in mine and get a constat 14.2 volts at the rear battery. I just used one of the projecta vsr kits off ebay for just on 100 bucks
Dual Battery Setup???
- Thread starter FrootStik
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drobbo2253
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Which one ? I have a redarc isolator but was told I need a dc to dc charger for my 2012 D40
silvernavman
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I have a 2012 d40 too... Save the money, pull the green cable and no need for the dcdc charger, there is a thread showing it. It's the green one closest to the main battery
Here are a couple of pictures of the dual battery setup I made for my D40.
First pic is the Battery itself. 125ah Deep Cycle AGM Battery. Chose this type due to it being 100% sealed, and maintenance free. The position of the battery, and its weight, means you don't want to be lifting it out every 6 months to check fluid levels.
Second is the holder without battery, with rear left tyre removed.
Third pic is with battery installed.
Fourth pic is taken from the rear of vehicle.
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First pic is the Battery itself. 125ah Deep Cycle AGM Battery. Chose this type due to it being 100% sealed, and maintenance free. The position of the battery, and its weight, means you don't want to be lifting it out every 6 months to check fluid levels.
Second is the holder without battery, with rear left tyre removed.
Third pic is with battery installed.
Fourth pic is taken from the rear of vehicle.
Click image for larger version
Name: 125 AH batt..jpg
Views: 9
Size: 33.6 KB
ID: 15601
Click image for larger version
Name: Holder without battery.jpg
Views: 12
Size: 31.8 KB
ID: 15602
Click image for larger version
Name: Battery installed..jpg
Views: 12
Size: 33.2 KB
ID: 15603
Click image for larger version
Name: 20140609_081901.jpg
Views: 10
Size: 206.8 KB
ID: 15604
Battery holder.
This is what I did. D40,series 6 dualcab style side. Mounted the battery behind rear left wheel in tube. Remove wheel and couple of phillips head screws will remove mudflap. After this 4, 6mm bolts and this removes inner back of the guard.
Presto! look inside and there's a nice space for a battery!
First photo is the battery. 125AH "Giant" 330mm long, by 173 wide and 220 high.
Second photo is holder ready for battery.
Third photo is battery installed.
last photo is the holder looking from the back.
I
This is what I did. D40,series 6 dualcab style side. Mounted the battery behind rear left wheel in tube. Remove wheel and couple of phillips head screws will remove mudflap. After this 4, 6mm bolts and this removes inner back of the guard.
Presto! look inside and there's a nice space for a battery!
First photo is the battery. 125AH "Giant" 330mm long, by 173 wide and 220 high.
Second photo is holder ready for battery.
Third photo is battery installed.
last photo is the holder looking from the back.
I
Attachments
Battery holder.
Designed and made it myself(Fitter & Turner by trade). Wasn't happy to mount it behind fuel tank as I want to install a bigger tank in the future. As normal, had a heap of photo's during the making of it and got a new phone didn't I, lost all bar 3!
It uses the mounts that hold the towbar and rear bumper. As the battery weights 31kg, there is some good size steel in the main bracket.
The battery is maintained by a Redarc BCDC 1240-LV unit which is mounted in the canopy.
It got the test in April, went camping for 11 days on Fraser Island. The system maintained 2 Waeco fridges. One as a fridge, the other as a freezer. Plus camping lights and water pumps. The battery holder got a real workout as the Ironman suspension didn't work as expected. VERY DISAPPOINTED!! After about 10min travelling around the inland tracks, the shocks, front and back faded severely. Every so often we'd stop just to let the vehicle stop bouncing. The bumpstops, top and bottom scored plenty of hits.
Anyway, the battery holder come though trumps. Oh, and now have Dobinson shocks and springs on the front, will change the rear when able.
If anyone is interested in a holder like this, feel free to contact me.
Designed and made it myself(Fitter & Turner by trade). Wasn't happy to mount it behind fuel tank as I want to install a bigger tank in the future. As normal, had a heap of photo's during the making of it and got a new phone didn't I, lost all bar 3!
It uses the mounts that hold the towbar and rear bumper. As the battery weights 31kg, there is some good size steel in the main bracket.
The battery is maintained by a Redarc BCDC 1240-LV unit which is mounted in the canopy.
It got the test in April, went camping for 11 days on Fraser Island. The system maintained 2 Waeco fridges. One as a fridge, the other as a freezer. Plus camping lights and water pumps. The battery holder got a real workout as the Ironman suspension didn't work as expected. VERY DISAPPOINTED!! After about 10min travelling around the inland tracks, the shocks, front and back faded severely. Every so often we'd stop just to let the vehicle stop bouncing. The bumpstops, top and bottom scored plenty of hits.
Anyway, the battery holder come though trumps. Oh, and now have Dobinson shocks and springs on the front, will change the rear when able.
If anyone is interested in a holder like this, feel free to contact me.
Little green wire
Hi Guys, I am curious about this little green wire you mention. I have just purchased a dual battery kit, and was told by my auto elec that it is no good for the Navara and I need to invest a small fortune on a dc dc charger. If I understand you correctly, all I need to do is to disconnect this little green wire to achieve the same result as purchasing a $500 dc dc charger.
I have a 2008 4.0 ltr. Do I disconnect this wire at the alternator, or the battery?
Any help would be appreciated.
Hi Guys, I am curious about this little green wire you mention. I have just purchased a dual battery kit, and was told by my auto elec that it is no good for the Navara and I need to invest a small fortune on a dc dc charger. If I understand you correctly, all I need to do is to disconnect this little green wire to achieve the same result as purchasing a $500 dc dc charger.
I have a 2008 4.0 ltr. Do I disconnect this wire at the alternator, or the battery?
Any help would be appreciated.
kr ingebrigtsen
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Your 2008 model D40 won't have a stupid "Smart" alternator so don't worry about it. You won't need a DC-DC charger, but without some form of charger like a C-Tek D250S, Redarc BCDC 1220, your battery will be charged directly by the alternator and will have an appropriate state of charge. You'll find that very heavy cables to the second battery will be beneficial.
happy john
Member
Tony referred to "cables" earthing to the chassis is not enough the power loss is huge. A simple run back to the - on the battery will improve recharge times and performance.
FrootStik
Member
Hey guys. So I never got around to getting a dual battery setup once I started this thread. But am getting one before I head away over the Chrissy holidays.
So has anything changed in the last year with gear and so on?
I was looking into something like an arkpak. That way it's portable to camp site if I can't get my car close enough?
My question here is, can I connect up an arkpak in the tray like a dual battery would be? And if I need it elsewhere I can just unplug it?
Just an idea, or curious really haha
So has anything changed in the last year with gear and so on?
I was looking into something like an arkpak. That way it's portable to camp site if I can't get my car close enough?
My question here is, can I connect up an arkpak in the tray like a dual battery would be? And if I need it elsewhere I can just unplug it?
Just an idea, or curious really haha
An Arkpak would do the job, and you could improve on its portability substantially by adding a folding solar panel. You'd have to check on whether the Arkpak could take a solar (unregulated) input and use it (like the CTek D250S DCDC charger) or if you have to get your own regulator - it will change the cost of the solar panel.
You shouldn't try connecting solar panels directly to 12V batteries - a 12V solar panel's open circuit voltage is something near 20V and most lead acid batteries don't respond well to that!
You shouldn't try connecting solar panels directly to 12V batteries - a 12V solar panel's open circuit voltage is something near 20V and most lead acid batteries don't respond well to that!
Thought I would chime in here too. I run a Redarc BCDC1225-LV and 100AH battery in a box, both in the canopy. Most important thing I can advise you is to run appropriate cabling from your main battery.
Some will say 6mm cable is enough as the unit is able to compensate for the voltage drop over the long run from bonnet to tray, but spend the extra money on 6 B&S cable (13mm) and you won't have voltage drop. You can purchase it as a twin cable so you have the positive and negative inside 1 sheath. Nice and easy then to run it from the main battery to the tray.
Also in regards to earthing, earth it at the main battery! It will be a much better earth than somewhere on the chassis
Some will say 6mm cable is enough as the unit is able to compensate for the voltage drop over the long run from bonnet to tray, but spend the extra money on 6 B&S cable (13mm) and you won't have voltage drop. You can purchase it as a twin cable so you have the positive and negative inside 1 sheath. Nice and easy then to run it from the main battery to the tray.
Also in regards to earthing, earth it at the main battery! It will be a much better earth than somewhere on the chassis
I put in my own battery under the tub about as cheap as you can get.
The local metal shop made a box similar to this for $120.
A voltage sensitive relay cost about $70 off eBay.
I used a set of 800Amp jumper leads from eBay to connect it up.
I spent about $50 on connectors, fuses and Anderson plugs. The local mechanic saved an N70 battery for me. ($0 and it easily runs 2 fridges and led lights for 2 days). If I hold a switch on the dash, I can crank with it.
The only hassle is, I needed a trolley jack to put it in and a shave mirror to check the electrolyte.
The local metal shop made a box similar to this for $120.
A voltage sensitive relay cost about $70 off eBay.
I used a set of 800Amp jumper leads from eBay to connect it up.
I spent about $50 on connectors, fuses and Anderson plugs. The local mechanic saved an N70 battery for me. ($0 and it easily runs 2 fridges and led lights for 2 days). If I hold a switch on the dash, I can crank with it.
The only hassle is, I needed a trolley jack to put it in and a shave mirror to check the electrolyte.
FrootStik
Member
So researched a bit more. Going an isolator to an arkpak in the tub. Will be a portable, dual battery system.
Regulator for solar also.
Regulator for solar also.
As always "some great points made".
I have no idea when it comes to Auto Electrics and for peace of mind I had an Auto sparky take care of all the wiring and connections and I just did the "Fab'/fitting/installation" of the Battery Box, lights and mounts etc.
I put a red arc isolator under the bonnet that throws over to power the Ctek in a alloy box under the tray that houses a 120a/h A.G.M Battery. I have a rocker on the dash as a main on/off !
The A.G.M powers the fridge, interior tray lights, exterior under tray lighting and the rear camera.
The box contains x2 10amp cigy' sockets, x1 20amp Anderson plug, x1 30amp A/P power outlets with a direct to battery A/P connection for jump starting that could also be used as a solar connection -but I intend to wire up a connection to the Ctek I recently had installed.
What your suggesting about a arcpak set up would be perfect- get your sparky to put a red arc set up under you bonnet and a plug/socket in the tray to power the arcpak in transit. A solar blanket when you get to site and your laughing...
I so want one of those red ack blankies - just for the ease of fold up and store, I want I want I want
I'm slowly working on getting pic's up in my garage feel free to take a look.... cheers and beers Vic
I have no idea when it comes to Auto Electrics and for peace of mind I had an Auto sparky take care of all the wiring and connections and I just did the "Fab'/fitting/installation" of the Battery Box, lights and mounts etc.
I put a red arc isolator under the bonnet that throws over to power the Ctek in a alloy box under the tray that houses a 120a/h A.G.M Battery. I have a rocker on the dash as a main on/off !
The A.G.M powers the fridge, interior tray lights, exterior under tray lighting and the rear camera.
The box contains x2 10amp cigy' sockets, x1 20amp Anderson plug, x1 30amp A/P power outlets with a direct to battery A/P connection for jump starting that could also be used as a solar connection -but I intend to wire up a connection to the Ctek I recently had installed.
What your suggesting about a arcpak set up would be perfect- get your sparky to put a red arc set up under you bonnet and a plug/socket in the tray to power the arcpak in transit. A solar blanket when you get to site and your laughing...
I so want one of those red ack blankies - just for the ease of fold up and store, I want I want I want
I'm slowly working on getting pic's up in my garage feel free to take a look.... cheers and beers Vic
FrootStik
Member
What dual battery monitors are you guys running with?
