DPF and Cat Deletion in a D40 Series 2 and 3 Diesel Auto – No White Smoke

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$1599 - sorry that's just over the top! Then there is the added cost of the DPF delete pipe. That makes it a 2k mod.

There are proven ways to remove the DPF without regen. Simply put in recalibrated sensors. Less than $200

EGR block also does effectively render it 'off' so not necessary in the tune. $20.

Tuning the ECM is the nicest way to tune engines - but even in high performance V8 cars it's less than a grand.
 
Hi Black Outlaw,
I do agree with your points but let's put it this way also:
- Robert has already spent several effort and consistent amount of hours in trials for which he now needs to be compensated.
- Robert also has to spend some time in modifying the ECU order what ever he needs and do the mod let's call it 2 days = 16 hours = $100 x 16hrs = $1600 fair call for highly specialised job
If you call fisher & paykel to fix a dish washing machine they will charge a similar hourly rate.

The question is: now that we could justify his price, what kind of guarantees, warranties and refunds does Robert offer to back up those rates? ie. if for any reason the engine blows up and Nissan refuse to cover it under warranty because the car has the ECU modified, will Robert take what ever bill will come up to fix the car/engine?

Cheers
 
Black Outlaw, I also have other solutions as not everyone want to do it the proper way and spend the money. 1) alternative is Chip and DPF Simulator. Chip is $1099, DPF Sims are $550.00. Yes you can run the DPF Sim without the Chip.

Sims have 12 months warranty
Chips 5 years warranty
mgermasi my tunes come with 24 months warranty. Guaranteed never to give you DPF woes ever again :)
 
http://www.chipit.com.au/products-page/diesel-mods/nissan-d40-dpf-delete-race-pipe-stainless-steel/

I believe this is what there talking about. I've used a couple myself and its a good product. There good for DPF delete's but only work if your still running the stock CAT in my experience. If you "smash out" your cat or run a highflow aftermarket one this pipe alone will not prevent the "white smoke" issue. This is why they need to reprogram your ECU.

If your modding a stock D40 and factory cat still in good working order then these are good.

If you want to run Full turbo back 3inch exhaust or similar then you'll need to swap the sensors.
 
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I have just done my dpf delete and am now running a 3" from turbo back.
Went with the tune.
 
In relation to the white smoke, I get it sometimes generally at low speeds/idle, I had a 3" exhaust fitted September last year, (new aftermarket DPF also as the old one was shot) and only recently started occurring! I got the initial stuff out (exhaust glue etc). My question is, should I still get white smoke with an active (and I hope) serviceable DPF? Do I have another issue or is the new DPF likely to be faulty?
 
White smoke is generally one of two things: water vapour or completely unburnt (atomised) diesel.

Since you don't say that your car idles or runs poorly, I'm guessing the small amount that you're seeing is water vapour rather than diesel fuel. Try putting a paper towel over the exhaust to catch some, then determine if it has a strong diesel smell or not.

If your car was doing a regen, it wouldn't do it around idle - generally only see it at 1500rpm or more. If it IS doing a regen and you're seeing the white smoke then it may be the new DPF isn't catching any of it. Whether that's because there's far too much diesel for it to catch, or because the new DPF is more a pipe than a filter it's hard to say.

If it's trying to regen then it must think there's a need to do it. It may be worth your time to remove the DPF and inspect it (and that way you'll know which side of the pipe<->filter equation that thing is). If it's a filter and it's gummed up quite badly you could try to clean it, but if it's a pipe or it's quite clean, there's a chance you have a dodgy sensor.

With dodgy sensors there are really only two ways to deal with it: get genuine (new or used) sensors from Nissan/wreckers (send a pm to Nizzbits on this forum) and replace them. Alternatively, knock out the guts of it after you've sent auggie (on this forum) a pm and organised sensor replacements through him (his replacements are to stop a removed DPF from causing regens).
 
The white smoke is DPF related

It is there because the cat has been removed and the factory EGT sensors no longer see the correct temps. With factory cat the temps were getting up to the point that allowed passive regen. Now with a freer flowing exhaust the temps aren't high enough to reach the 600+ degrees needed to regen passively so the factory ECU dumps in diesel to try to get the temps up to a point where the DPF is being cleaned.

However without the factory DPF there the diesel is just ending up as unburnt fuel. (as Old Tony mentions). [your aftermarket DPF is of poor quality]

So to fix this:

1) refit the factory Cat

2) fit a DPS SIM to trick the ECU into thinking the temps are up to speed
CLICK HERE

3) get the ECU remapped so the DPF is removed from the coding. We can do this too. :)
 
so from everything iv read here, if i stick a cat back exhaust system on with a dpf delete pipe, it should be all good ? No white smoke correct ?

cheers Nik
 
Waa, don't want to start a new thread so i just ask here. Just fitted a turbo back exhaust it's an 08 or 07 manual d40. Seen a few puffs of white smoke. Should I be buying one of those sensors ASAP????
 
Nik, that's about right - as long as your car isn't trying to do a regen when you do the work. That can put a spanner in the works so don't throw out the DPF!

No, Andrew. Manuals didn't have a DPF. The white smoke might be from a sticking injector (try a can of Liqui Moly Injector Cleaner). How's the car perform?
 
Good, idles good, pulls strong. It did run dry a few weeks ago. Had less then a quarter and was reversing up a drive with a trailer and it was idling on a decent angle and stalled. Had to jerry can 20l and prime it. Might have damaged an injector.
 

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