Diagnosis on code 31 and 71 /0301,0701 '03 zd

[Been a while]

Hello and thanks to all that has got me this far, esp tweak and rum cheers!
So the basis to the zd is, she stopped! At idle, just fluttered and before i could focus on the dash- it was lights out - zd'$ dead!

HOWS THAT! I give her a huuuuuge birthday present and the tnuc rolls over and goes to sleep- and yes lads -not even a reach round... I spend shite loads of time$ on the brakes for her , 300'000k b.day and she does this shite.... oh, and i brought her new boots for her weeks back...
Anywayssss

On site mechanic scans and he states "he cant get any info from the I.P"!
Tow!

Back at barn, clean what earths i can find - kick panels x2, r/h inner gaurd x2, front Radiator support panel x1, l/h inner gaurd x1.. ecm mounts "3 points". Battery posts.

Ecutalk scan , on fresh charged battery 12.9 "also tried jump battery to my fresh charge" .
Turn key on, codes read 31ecu2 &71 cam position sensor. Clear codes. Turn key off.
Turn key as to start motor and ecutalk reads same codes, 31 and 71.
Codes read 31 and 71 and I'm assuming they would refer to 0301 and 0701..

Now, code 0301/31 diagnostics page number EC-594 - directed by the manual D.T.C 0301 ECM2 leaves you with two options if the problems not "intermittent " and they are, 1 Replace ECM and 2 preform Accl Pos Sens idle Pos Learning! Can't do number 2's she no go !

So back to the manual to see how and if they "ecu" can be tested in any way- it did pass the smell test... no resent fires..
i did price a second hand ecu from the local wrecker @$350, seems like they like "giving it dry" like nissan oem - if any one has one for a d22 zd drop me a line ..

Now for the dreaded 0701 / 71 p1 cam position sensor........

Page EC-639 DTC 0701 P1-Cam Pos Sen.

1 check power supply- done. Go to 3
3 check for ground - done. Go to 5
5 check communication lines for open and short- done. Go to 7
aaaaand this is when you start to feel the desert dryness set in and the nissan spare parts people start circling above...
So 7, if it's not "intermittent " and it's not a short to ground or to power you win a "fully reco I.P"!

Now before i jump in for that lovely job i would like to know if these ecu/ecm can be tested?

And the other question i have is regarding the ecm. With posts numbers 56 and 61 these are shown as a 12v power sorce but unless i am doing something wrong i am not getting a reading from these two posts to ground?? Any thoughts ?
Yes, I'm trying to find those fuses shown on page EC-645 ? To me it looks like E55 ECM Relay and that is the one under the bonet? Yes? Well if it is i did test it - all good..
The other 11E and no. 7 look like conections? Any help would be appreciated, thanks zed

So that's where the navs at... here's some pic's of the earths i found...

 

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Kick panel earths..

 

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R/H Inner Gaurd x2 , one is hidden underneath the main earth to manifold! Tricky little shite...
The first ones up near the fuse box, mine has 2 acc to it also " yellow conections ".. follow that earth and you'll find the tricky little shite..

 

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Radiator supprot and L/H Inner Gaurd. I'll cover them up with paint on electrical tape.. Also used this electrical joining paste! Anyone used this? SHOULD I be using this?

 

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ECM to I.P test for continuity- part of 0701 diagnosis.

 

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Up date, ok I've done what tests i can with out the motor running. All seems fine with fuses and wiring except for a high pitched noise coming from the alternator during a teast, test was to 1, have the ecu disconect 2, test voltage at ecm plug pin 38 to ground - that reads 12.16 and whilst noise is coming from alternator the battery reads 12.48 v ?? To stop the squeeeel/ high pitched noise from the alternator i have to disconect the battery...

Could "me issues" be battery and alternator me wonders? Worth a new battery i guess but i did have the farm horse boost at attempted starts??
Any thoughts welcome. Thanks

 

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Cleaned earths i could find, replace battery, new battery terminals and we have another code- 47 !

Or 0407 I'm guessing..crank angle sensor! Wtf!

 

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Howdy, can anyone tell me if the crank pos sensor has its own earth to the motor at the sensor mount/ position?

They way the manual reads there should be continuity between terminal 3 from the sensor and ground/earth?

Am i reading the manual correctly?

Thanks

 

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Anyone?

 

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Bump

 

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Found this, https://youtu.be/cB1VEfjGz1c

 

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Nothing ?

 

[Boogieboots]

Yeah that is interesting. I think I am still going to need an oscilloscope though after reading the comments, as mine is clearly working once started. Though I haven't had a CEL come up for a couple of days....

 

[Been a while]

Yeah that is interesting. I think I am still going to need an oscilloscope though after reading the comments, as mine is clearly working once started. Though I haven't had a CEL come up for a couple of days....

I was under the impression if the taco' is moving the crank pos sensor is working?? Still yet to find out if the cps has its own earth/ground?

 

[Boogieboots]

Me too but when mine cranks for a while before starting and throws the engine light the tacho tends to dance around a fair bit. If this is the starter giving interference and it needs replacing i am dreading the job. There is not much room to move down there....

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

[Been a while]

Me too but when mine cranks for a while before starting and throws the engine light the tacho tends to dance around a fair bit. If this is the starter giving interference and it needs replacing i am dreading the job. There is not much room to move down there....

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Ha, give me the starter motor job over i.p job any day

So yours is running, just playing up intermittently? Have you seen where the crank sensor is? ffs you need an asian friend to help work on these things.... " small hand joke" )

It's a hell of a job diagnosing these navs! If i was 100% mine was the pump I'd have it apart by now, just dont want to dive in with out being sure... sure i could justify a new pump etc at 300000ks buuuuuttttt, the work involved ...

 

[Boogieboots]

Yeah I just changed my fan and had I known I would have pulled the sensor out then for a check! I don't think I will be doing the IP myself, and I hope you find your problem is easier and cheaper mate!

 

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Yeah I just changed my fan and had I known I would have pulled the sensor out then for a check! I don't think I will be doing the IP myself, and I hope you find your problem is easier and cheaper mate!

Thanks man, going for a second hand ECM tomorrow .. if that doesn't work i guess it's pump..

 

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Sorry forum been absolutly flat out! Ok up date time..

So i hade 2 codes , then 3 -replaced ecm and only one showing now-crank position sensor! Replaced that and still showing CPS code danmit!

Noticed alternator was on the way out so replaced that also... good find in a way- only a matter of time before being replaced..

So with all that done, the only thing i could find on the net to look for was the starter motor .. Pulled out and apart , brushes fine but does have a dirt film over everything - armature, magnets etc and one bearing out of the four is a little ruff . Found a very extensive re build kit - armature, solenoid, brushes etc for $170 . Will rebuild and keep for a spare. Ordered one from auto8 for $245 with express post and should be here tomorrow..

One thing i did notice with the ecutalk on the laptop is that the pump rpm's dont move whilst cranking? Should it?

And the other is, the new battery reads 12.8v with multi meter with nothing turned on , but the ecutalk volt gauge show about 12.2v 12.3v?
Dont know what's going on there!

Now when i crank her over the ecutalk volt gauge drops to hight 9v to high 10v whilst cranking? I am hoping it's the starter motor ! Please be the starter nissan God's- i may have to sacrifice a Toyota...
The starter still turned her over like no tomorrow, but the volt thing has me concerned..

So far it's been an expensive diagnosis , a hell of a lot more expensive if i had to rely on nissan au for parts..
ParqSouq to the rescue, genuine cps under $70 ! I ordered other parts also, so the shipping is cheap...new genuine fan, temp sensor, gen air temp sensor, still looking for the air pressure sensor..

So between work eat and sleep there's been a little surface rust treatment on the underside and sump..
Pulled the front diff to fix an oil weep, so whilst there! lol you know how it goes ....

When fitting the front locker you have to take off some casing so the locker will fit in, now with the elocker there is part of it that uses the cover plate to engaged the locker "locking plate" .. well i did'nt trim the internal of the gasket to match the diif housing and the locker was hitting the "metal gasket" juuuust enough to brake the seal... yup that's my life lol.

 

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Yeah I just changed my fan and had I known I would have pulled the sensor out then for a check! I don't think I will be doing the IP myself, and I hope you find your problem is easier and cheaper mate!

How did you go with yours Boots, ya need a crank position sensor lol i have a second hand one i was going to put in the tool box ... yup not my issues as it turns out , frig it!

Seriously if ya need one to test ya rig give me a yell ..