Going to lash out and buy a dc to DC charger. Just wondering what sort of wire do I use, or can I just use the old heavy duty cabling for my dual batteries and isolator? Just a bit confused with it all. Also would it be best to mount the DC to DC charger on the aux battery box or in the engine bay? Cheers.
DC to DC Wiring.
- Thread starter atcmatt
- Start date
Help Support Nissan Navara Forum:
The heavier the cable, the less voltage drop. It's as simple as that. Use the heaviest cable you can reasonably put in.
The best location for any charger is as close to the battery as possible. I'm installing a solar panel on the roof of my canopy this weekend and rather than use a regulator on the panel and charge the battery on the end of a longish cable, I've decided to put the regulator right next to the battery (about 300mm of cable). This way, I get variable voltage in to the regulator and can afford to lose a little there, but the regulator/charger delivers the power to the battery on a short lead - so it gets a real good look at the battery with almost zero voltage drop.
The best location for any charger is as close to the battery as possible. I'm installing a solar panel on the roof of my canopy this weekend and rather than use a regulator on the panel and charge the battery on the end of a longish cable, I've decided to put the regulator right next to the battery (about 300mm of cable). This way, I get variable voltage in to the regulator and can afford to lose a little there, but the regulator/charger delivers the power to the battery on a short lead - so it gets a real good look at the battery with almost zero voltage drop.
If you are going to go with the Redarc BCDC chargers, the wiring is not that heavy duty compared to a solenoid type separator. They usually recommend that they mount closest to the AUX battery. There is a diagram in the D22 wiring section under the wiring diagrams thread. See if that suits you.
Cheers Brad
Cheers Brad
user 10312
Member
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2011
- Messages
- 1,630
- Reaction score
- 68
Yep, close to the battery is the go. Your old cabling should be heavy enough to handle the current.
DC to DC chargers will generally draw (when required) more that the maximum output current of the charger. The Redarc are generally considered the best. I was a cheapskate and when for the Jaycar Powertec 40 Amp job and so far really happy with it. Particularly since it was about half the price of the Redarc.
DC to DC chargers will generally draw (when required) more that the maximum output current of the charger. The Redarc are generally considered the best. I was a cheapskate and when for the Jaycar Powertec 40 Amp job and so far really happy with it. Particularly since it was about half the price of the Redarc.
WARNING - IMPORTANT
To use an isolator-style or high-output charger, your battery has to be able to take that sort of charge rate. Charge a battery too fast and you boil the electrolyte away - in a flooded cell you can replenish it, but in a gel/AGM that's near impossible.
Look at the battery's max charge rate and make sure that whatever solution you choose goes UNDER that rate. A general guide:
Spiral AGM: C/2
Normal AGM: C/3
Flooded: C/5
Gel: C/10
where C is the capacity in Ah. Divide by the number shown to get the maximum rate you should charge the battery at. A 75Ah spiral wound AGM battery should be charged at no more than 37.5A.
To use an isolator-style or high-output charger, your battery has to be able to take that sort of charge rate. Charge a battery too fast and you boil the electrolyte away - in a flooded cell you can replenish it, but in a gel/AGM that's near impossible.
Look at the battery's max charge rate and make sure that whatever solution you choose goes UNDER that rate. A general guide:
Spiral AGM: C/2
Normal AGM: C/3
Flooded: C/5
Gel: C/10
where C is the capacity in Ah. Divide by the number shown to get the maximum rate you should charge the battery at. A 75Ah spiral wound AGM battery should be charged at no more than 37.5A.
