D40 Navara Clutch pedal issues

[RComplex]

Hi guys,

As I mentioned in another post I put a new manual gearbox in and I thought while I'm doing it I may as well change the clutch so opted for a 4terrain HD clutch kit. This kit came with a Solid Mass Flywheel too. After putting it in, I also put in a 3mm reinforcement plate that sits between the clutch master cylinder and the firewall (to prevent cracks).

My mechanic has tried bleeding the system and seems to have trouble with it and thinks possible the 3mm plate is causing the issue. I'm pretty sure you can unscrew the push-rod in the master cylinder to extend it out right?

The clutch also only goes up to a certain point and then I need to manually pull the clutch back with my foot an extra inch or so (at the moment, it doesn't hit the cruise control switch unless I pull it back).
I noticed as well, when i pull it back it doesn't move the push-rod in the master cylinder as there seems to be a little play in the pin that connects the pedal to the master cylinder push-rod.

Hope this makes sense.

 

[BarneyB]

I have a similar situation that I'm currently figuring out.
Just bought my D40 about a month ago.
It has very recently had a new clutch and new dual mass flywheel (DMF) installed by previous owner & local mechanic.
Apparently they chose a "heavy duty" after market combo....(??)

I've driven manual gearbox's all my life & I have never stalled a car as many times as I have this one....in one month!
The friction point is right at the very top of the travel and is very abrupt.

So part of the weird feel/action is the large double sided spring attached to the back of the pedal.
I have removed this for two reasons:

1. AFAIK it's not completely necessary (there is another return spring above it, & there is the hydraulic pressure)...and the pedal action feels a little better and a little lighter on the left leg. I have done about 150kms so far without the spring to see how it goes.

2. It's very difficult to undo the push rod lock nut with this spring in place (at least with my current spanner inventory). You can do it but it's very tight & fiddly without putting a spanner in the bench vice, heating it, bending it, chopping it etc etc.
I removed the big spring for access & then wound the push rod back towards the pedal (away from f/w) in an attempt to move the friction point a little.
It sort-of worked. But of course I also lost the cruise control switch pressure....so I'm going to put the spring back in soon.

For your vehicle, can you confirm the large double sided spring is in place? (it attaches at three points)
You should be able to adjust the push rod to compensate for the 3mm plate.
I'm assuming your clutch is still fully disengaged when the pedal is sagging? (i.e. - you don't have any slipping or weirdness going on down below?)

 

[RComplex]

Hey Barney.

I can confirm i have the spring in place still. I definietly haven't tried removing it (have read about people having issues putting it in when replacing it). I managed to wind it out with the spring in place and it sits way better than before but yeah I still have the really sudden bite point you have too and it doesn't hit the switch still.
I ahve read around where people removed the top assist spring (or cut it) to get the clutch pedal to feel like a clutch pedal should. Not 100% sure on this but i do agree the clutch does feel sooo different compared to any other manual car.

 

[BarneyB]

Yeah I'm not so keen on messing with the top spring - seems like a bad risk vs return deal.
Have you had any improvement on the clutch action?
Are you still manually pulling the pedal up with your foot?
It's probably not that hard to make a new clevis pin to remove the slack between the push-rod clevis & the pedal hole...? You could prolly use a good quality bolt with a long shank and cut the threaded section down to suit?

Can you tell me a bit more about your 3mm reinforcing plate? (I'm a bit worried about the dreaded firewall cracking).
Was it a home job? Or did you buy a pre-fabbed one?
Roughly how big is it?
Major or minor PITA to fit?

 

[GunMentalGrey]

I need to use my foot to bring the clutch out the last little bit as well. Been meaning to climb under the dash to see what’s going on, but ....

 

[RComplex]

Yeah I'm not so keen on messing with the top spring - seems like a bad risk vs return deal.
Have you had any improvement on the clutch action?
Are you still manually pulling the pedal up with your foot?
It's probably not that hard to make a new clevis pin to remove the slack between the push-rod clevis & the pedal hole...? You could prolly use a good quality bolt with a long shank and cut the threaded section down to suit?

Can you tell me a bit more about your 3mm reinforcing plate? (I'm a bit worried about the dreaded firewall cracking).
Was it a home job? Or did you buy a pre-fabbed one?
Roughly how big is it?
Major or minor PITA to fit?

I have got it back to where it was when I got it but still have that tiny bit of travel I need to pull it up with my foot.
I do think could use a bolt that will reach the switch so don't have to do that every time. It's definitely pushed back the full extent out of the master cylinder so no hydraulic pressure on clutch at all.

The Reinforcement plate I got is a 3mm steel plate. I got it from Toxic Fabrications on Instagram, and this dude owns a SAS'd d40 too (was $30)(). Just painted it and put in. Was a bit of a pain to put in, had to undo fuel filter bracket bolts, pull clutch master cylinder out and remove line that goes to clutch and then once it was in, needed to bleed clutch. I would say took 30-40mins total with a lot of tight maneuvering.
I have also seen this website which describes the issue and has a plate that looks the same to fix the issue (For some reason can't load page even though worked last week but heres the link incase it works: Pandgmotors

 

[RComplex]

I need to use my foot to bring the clutch out the last little bit as well. Been meaning to climb under the dash to see what’s going on, but ....

It's obviously an issue with D40's which I would love to know why but yeah so far anyone sorting it has just done hack job stuff to get it "fixed". Will ask Brake and Clutch place if this is something they have come across in a couple days as cars there getting brakes fixed.

 

[user 50284]

I have got it back to where it was when I got it but still have that tiny bit of travel I need to pull it up with my foot.
I do think could use a bolt that will reach the switch so don't have to do that every time. It's definitely pushed back the full extent out of the master cylinder so no hydraulic pressure on clutch at all.

The Reinforcement plate I got is a 3mm steel plate. I got it from Toxic Fabrications on Instagram, and this dude owns a SAS'd d40 too (was $30)(). Just painted it and put in. Was a bit of a pain to put in, had to undo fuel filter bracket bolts, pull clutch master cylinder out and remove line that goes to clutch and then once it was in, needed to bleed clutch. I would say took 30-40mins total with a lot of tight maneuvering.
I have also seen this website which describes the issue and has a plate that looks the same to fix the issue (For some reason can't load page even though worked last week but heres the link incase it works: Pandgmotors