D40 brake booster

[LiftmyRide]

Hi guys,

I'm about to buy a brake booster from wrecker. Is there a difference between spain and thai built? I've got 2008 stx spain..

Thanks everyone

 

[Old.Tony]

I've not heard of any differences in the brake boosters but then again it's a component that is rarely broken, and usually on forums you only hear about the broken bits.

 

[LiftmyRide]

I've not heard of any differences in the brake boosters but then again it's a component that is rarely broken, and usually on forums you only hear about the broken bits.

Thanks Tony, sorry for late reply.

Tony, hope you're well. Just a quick one.
Mine is 2008 navara d40 yd25 spain built. I try to understand what exactly the position of bypass flap inside the turbo if the actuator spring pushes down the lever? And During idle is the bypass fully closed or partially only?
Second, on the booster solenoid I can feel a small amount of vacuum on the atm side on idle. My assessment is I might not getting a full vacuum on the actuator if the solenoid letting the atm side to suck air as well.
Sorry for inconvenience, what ever your advice will highly appreciated.

 

[tweak'e]

Mine is 2008 navara d40 yd25 spain built. I try to understand what exactly the position of bypass flap inside the turbo if the actuator spring pushes down the lever? And During idle is the bypass fully closed or partially only?

i think your talking about the turbo vanes of the variable turbo.
they never fully close, otherwise the turbo would not spin at all and it block the exhaust off. you would not be driving anywhere.

 

[Been a while]

They are different, check stud bolt length and more importantly the rod and bracket that goes the the peddle have different lengths ...

I actually have I think a brand new d40 one in the shed, sold to me as a d22 ...

$100 C.O.delivery Au post ...cheers

 

[Old.Tony]

^ as above.

When the arm pushes down (which is the "no vacuum" position) the vanes are only partly open, providing vacuum to the actuator lifts the arm and opens the vanes, directing more exhaust onto the turbine (thus increasing the turbine's speed and therefore the amount of boost).

Vacuum leaks are not good. 3mm hose from Supercheap worked for me - about 3 metres of it is required. However, if your BCS is faulty, you could either replace it with another BCS or get a Dawes or Tillix valve. I chose the Tillix valve for myself. I just got tired of the BCS failing.

 

[LiftmyRide]

Thanks for the input everyone, I've replace 3 vacuum hoses its 4mm dia. We give a revs yesterday, I squeeze the intake hose while building boost to check the turbo output. It's all good..then the second one, building boost, I closely watched the wastegate actuator rod bouncing and at the same time slowly moving down until hit the limit and drop.
Guys, what you reckon if I install a tiny coil spring hook to rod and the other end somewhere in the actuator just to prevent the early crack of the wastegate. ( Sounds dodgy but it might work). I can also see an adjustment on the rod but I'm not convinced to touch it as I can't see what is the movement inside the turbo.

 

[user 10312]

They are different, check stud bolt length and more importantly the rod and bracket that goes the the peddle have different lengths ...

Amazing- even the brake booster. Thai and Spain trucks really are two different vehicles. Share the same architecture and look similar but that's about it!

 

[Old.Tony]

Even the vac line is different, I bought 3mm for mine, perfect fit. There ya go, eh?