D22 Navara no power, actuator not moving

[khany1]

Hi,

I have a 2004 Navara D22, 2.5 Diesel, based in the UK. 123000 miles, Manual.

The truck has no power when driving, particularly up inclines. it revs really slowly up to about 4k. I have sourced an engine for parts (has hole in the block), and so far:

Fitted new neutral position switch,
swapped, cleaned and blocked EGR
swapped over turbo and cat from other engine
swapped MAP sensor

It is still the same. Could it be a fuelling issue? it starts and goes, no judderign or misfire, just lack all power.

The actuator does not move. When moved manually while running, it revs alot quicker.

Any help would be much appreciated,

Thanks,

 

[Old.Tony]

I thought the turbo in the 2004 D22 was a wastegate turbo. I think more commonly those turbochargers had three bolts in the bottom that came loose and basically allowed the turbo to leak.

It's worth checking those bolts. You need to use a small vac pump to check the actuator and a check of all the vac lines is also valuable.

 

[khany1]

Apologies, it was the waste gate actuator I was referring to. The actuator moved fine when I blew it with an air line, but will not operate on the turbo. It's like it's not getting enough pressure to open the waste gate.

Thanks

 

[Old.Tony]

We have that problem with our D40s too - vac hoses perish (most common) or the solenoid fails. The symptoms are obvious - not much power, and lots of black smoke under acceleration.

 

[khany1]

We have that problem with our D40s too - vac hoses perish (most common) or the solenoid fails. The symptoms are obvious - not much power, and lots of black smoke under acceleration.

There's no smoke when revving / driving, and I believe the d22 doesn't have a boost solenoid, rather a MAP sensor, which I've already swapped. Could it be a fuelling issue?

 

[Old.Tony]

The observation that it revs quicker when you play with the actuator makes me think it's still turbo-related, and since you've changed the turbo, it's not directly the turbo but something in its path or controlling it. I don't know if the D22 places reliance on anything other than the MAPS - it would have to rely on the CAS of course, and if that's misaligned it could cause trouble but you'd usually see an increase in smoke.

The only thing (if it's not air and not timing) it could possibly be is fuel. If it's sucking air into the fuel line (cracked, undertightened or overtightened lines) or there's a blockage in the tank you'd see this. You've changed the engine so the fuel pump has changed, leaving fuel lines and tank as the only common thing left.

 

[tweak'e]

The actuator does not move. When moved manually while running, it revs alot quicker.
,

which actuator? if you mean turbo waste gate then operating that should not make engine rev quicker........unless turbo is seized.

the first thing i would do is put boost gauge on and see what boost it makes.

 

[khany1]

which actuator? if you mean turbo waste gate then operating that should not make engine rev quicker........unless turbo is seized.

the first thing i would do is put boost gauge on and see what boost it makes.

Thank you for the replies.

Where would I tap into for the boost gauge? Is it the small pipe which goes into the waste gate?

 

[bods]

Thank you for the replies.

Where would I tap into for the boost gauge? Is it the small pipe which goes into the waste gate?

That's where I have mine and it works fine.

 

[khany1]

Here's a couple of videos, one to show the slow revving, and the other a view of the waste gate when revving:

[YT]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkWrtWjIToE[/YT]

[YT]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jfq7G0dK2AQ[/YT]

Thanks

 

[bods]

You won't get much if any wastegate movement just revving in neutral. You need to get some load on the engine so it makes a decent amount of boost before it starts opening.

 

[Hatchy]

Exhaust blocked?

 

[khany1]

I managed to source a boost gauge and connected it using a T piece to the small pipe that goes into the waste gate. It was a bit of a bodge of pipes but the gauge was working. The max boost it hit in 1st and 2ndnd gear was 0.4 Bar (~6 psi). It did however only rev upto around 3k, wouldn't rev above this.

When I scanned it before it came up with '14 Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit'. Could this be causing the issue?

I swapped the Cat as well, so don't think exhaust is blocked,

Here's a video of the boost gauge:

[YT]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L77eYt6XlAU[/YT]

Thanks

 

[Hunterman]

It's not an early development of limp mode is it?

 

[tweak'e]

not enough rpm and not high enough gear. go up a steep hill at 3500rpm with foot to the floor.

but first check your intercooler hose clamps. one doesn't look to be in the right place.

speed sensor failure can cause issues. speed is an ecu input so it needs to be working. you need to get that fixed. check underneath in case the wiring has been hit. hopefully no one has tampered with it behind the dash.

 

[happy john]

This is the non common rail yd25?, it seems to be boosting and sounds ok, perhaps an injector or pump problem?.

 

[Rumpig]

Could be starving for fuel, can you read the spill valve and icv percents? You might get more help here - http://www.nissan-navara.net/

 

[khany1]

Update

Since purchasing a couple of weeks ago:

Replaced oil and air filter,
Replaced turbo
Replaced boost sensor
Replace and Cleaned EGR
Replaced Neutral Position Switch

Car still has the same symptoms, tried revving on inclines, both upwards and downwards facing and there was no difference. I'm thinking its time to change the diesel pump, luckily, the engine I bought for spares has one on, so going to get that changed in a week or so. Will post an update once done. In the meantime, thank you for all the suggestions and support, any further ideas would be appreciated,

Thanks

 

[khany1]

UPDATE:

Just had the diesel pump changed ... still the same!! Not sure what to do now. Symptoms persists, revs really slowly, lacks power and struggles to rev of 3K/4K.

Before changing the diesel pump, i'd already:
Replaced oil and air filter,
Replaced turbo
Replaced boost sensor
Replace and Cleaned (also blanked) EGR
Replaced Neutral Position Switch

Could is be the VSS (vehicle speed sensor)?
I've scanned it with a snap on scanner, and is came up with VSS previously, doesn't now.

Any help would be much appreciated,

Thanks

 

[Old.Tony]

Back to basics then?

In order for a diesel engine to run, it needs just three things:

1) Diesel fuel
2) Air
3) Fuel entering the chamber at the right time

Looking at each one separately:

1) Diesel fuel. It's very worthwhile looking at the flow rate of fuel passing through the filter. That's obviously easier said than done visually with clean diesel, but obtaining a flow meter might help. It might just be a tank vent issue (not so likely) or a fuel tank pickup issue (very likely). If the flow is normal, you'd need to see if the injectors are opening properly. Since they're new, the only thing remaining is either (a) they're the wrong injectors for your motor or (b) there's an electrical issue (eg engine ground) that's not allowing the injectors to open properly. There's a chance that the fuel pressure isn't rising enough because it's being returned to the tank too easily - people have had problems with a spill valve in the past.

2) Air. Even without the turbocharger operating at all, you should find the engine revving more smoothly than that. Disconnect the connection to the air intake manifold and take a look inside.I have a $35 (now $69 at Jaycar) endoscope camera that has its own lighting that performs brilliantly in these situations. If the manifold is clear and free from the sludge we get from the blow-by oil and EGR soot, clean the intercooler which can be blocked by blow-by oil residue.

3) Timing. It's the CAS - Crank Angle Sensor - if it's out of alignment or the signal is impeded (metallic particles etc), the car will perform poorly.