d22 intercooler
- Thread starter bridge888
- Start date
Help Support Nissan Navara Forum:
stockstandard
Member
To healp reduce heat soak why not just do a DIY intercooler sprayer. Can buy a washer bottle kit for a KE70 corolla for about $50. Comes with everything you need except for the switch to turn it on.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-C...ccessories&hash=item3cc782ea3f#ht_2104wt_1009
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-C...ccessories&hash=item3cc782ea3f#ht_2104wt_1009
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2010
- Messages
- 1,323
- Reaction score
- 29
care to explain more about the sprayer?
im thinking you'd go through a bit of water.
im thinking you'd go through a bit of water.
assassin
Member
And have to constantly press the button? Good in theory but is it practical?
stockstandard
Member
If you have the bonnet scoop it would help a lot more but basically when the water mist is sprayed across the face of the intercooler, the air flowing through it will draw the mist along with it and in turn cool the charged air from the turbo because the intercooler temperatures will drop. For it to work efficiently the sprayers have to be able produce a mist.
Can be hooked up to a pressure switch so the pump for the misters are only activated at a certain boost, to a temp switch so the pump only comes on once temperatures are over a certain amount. Or you can just hooked it up to switch to turn it on and off. Really it will only be used for super hot days or when pushing hard across the beach or up hills when towing etc.
C.
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2010
- Messages
- 1,323
- Reaction score
- 29
sounds like it might have its place but probably a bit complicated for what im trying to do.
i have also got the fan mounted on top of the IC pushing air through it rather than underneath drawing the air through as there is almost no room underneath the IC. \
I dont think it would be possible to set it up to mist it through, and im sure the constant moisture would stuff the fan.
i have also got the fan mounted on top of the IC pushing air through it rather than underneath drawing the air through as there is almost no room underneath the IC. \
I dont think it would be possible to set it up to mist it through, and im sure the constant moisture would stuff the fan.
stockstandard
Member
Really depends on space between the fan shroud and the cooler, but yeah would be pretty fiddly if there wasnt a great deal of room.....combination of the fan and water spray would be ideal, but im sure the fan will be enough for most situations.
EDIT: Can even go a little further with a jaycar frequency switch http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5378 or with a timer http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5379. Obviously this is getting into more serious territory, but if you were hammering your car and didn't have spare hands to operate a switch, one of these could handle everythign for you.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2010
- Messages
- 1,323
- Reaction score
- 29
i got the piping from the just jap online store.
was a bit over $200 for Ic, silicon bends, alloy joiners and clamps.
I doubt it would fit with a dual battery tray. would have to move the battery somewhere else.
maybe you could remover the air filter precleaner and move the battery there.
or do the 80 series airbox swap, and put the battery where the current airbox is.
i think it could be done.
was a bit over $200 for Ic, silicon bends, alloy joiners and clamps.
I doubt it would fit with a dual battery tray. would have to move the battery somewhere else.
maybe you could remover the air filter precleaner and move the battery there.
or do the 80 series airbox swap, and put the battery where the current airbox is.
i think it could be done.
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2010
- Messages
- 1,323
- Reaction score
- 29
couple more pics of the setup.
had to pull it all out this weekend while i was fitting the new 3" exhaust and a couple other little jobs.
noticed that the IC had been contacting the 2 pipes behind the cooler.
so i stuck a bit of rubber on the pipes with some double sided tape so they don't wear away.
other than that all good.
here is also the link to some info on fitting the bonnet scoop.
http://www.navara.asia/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=14842
had to pull it all out this weekend while i was fitting the new 3" exhaust and a couple other little jobs.
noticed that the IC had been contacting the 2 pipes behind the cooler.
so i stuck a bit of rubber on the pipes with some double sided tape so they don't wear away.
other than that all good.
here is also the link to some info on fitting the bonnet scoop.
http://www.navara.asia/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=14842
Attachments
ttt87
Member
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2011
- Messages
- 34
- Reaction score
- 0
I put mine in today and used the boost nipple off the original intake and stuck a crap load of sikaflex on it...where did you get your brass one from that you put in the side
hey mate did you find much of a difference between with and without the scoop?and is there a noticable gain with the IC??also could you confirm the size of the pipe going onto the turbo is 1.75.
im leaning towards this set up as i dont really want the hassel of mounting it up front cutting holes and what not,honestly as long as it doesnt drop in peformance im happy,its more of a protection measure for me but i wont say no to peformance lol.
cheers
can someone please confirm for me the pipes need for this setup.is it as follows?
2.5" straight from intake - intercooler then a 2.5-2 reducer 90 deg bend-then a 2" 135 deg bend-then a 1.75 deg bend into the turbo.
is this correct?
2.5" straight from intake - intercooler then a 2.5-2 reducer 90 deg bend-then a 2" 135 deg bend-then a 1.75 deg bend into the turbo.
is this correct?
BP90
Member
Yeah the silicone hoses that ben85 told me he used were:
- a straight 2.5inch pipe,
- a 2.5-2inch 90degree bend,
- a 2inch 135degree bend,
- a 1.75inch 135degree bend.
And then you will need two 2inch Aluminium joiners.
Bart.
- a straight 2.5inch pipe,
- a 2.5-2inch 90degree bend,
- a 2inch 135degree bend,
- a 1.75inch 135degree bend.
And then you will need two 2inch Aluminium joiners.
Bart.
sweet, cheers.now just to figure out how to join the 2" 135 to the 1.75.i cant find a 2-1.75" 135 which is a bugger.
will post pics when im done as i have a 80 series airbox with the body lift which has brought the oil hose connection on the air intake hose up which could produce problems
thanks for the pipe sizes
will post pics when im done as i have a 80 series airbox with the body lift which has brought the oil hose connection on the air intake hose up which could produce problems
thanks for the pipe sizes
rabbit-chop
Member
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2012
- Messages
- 753
- Reaction score
- 0
Check frozenboost.com they have every concievable elbow reducer.
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2010
- Messages
- 1,323
- Reaction score
- 29
got it from pirtek
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2010
- Messages
- 1,323
- Reaction score
- 29
didnt notice any real difference with the scoop, i guess you could run it without a scoop, but i woulnt recommend it. would get a lot of heat soak.
the scoop will allow some of the heat from turbo and dump pipe to vent and allow some cooler air in for the fan to blow into the cooler.
id say there was a slight increase in torque.
im sure if you put it on a dyno you would find a slight increase but probably not worth the effort if your looking for big performance, but are any of the IC kits for these engines?
its more of a protection mod.
it won't drop in performance!
turbo outlet is 1.75inch
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2010
- Messages
- 1,323
- Reaction score
- 29
this has been done by using a 2inch alloy joiner into the 2inch silicon bend, and forced into the 1.75inch silicon bend.
it takes a bit of effort, you will need to sit it in a jug of hot water for a bit and then just work at it til you get it in.
once its in, you probably wont be able to get it out, it will be that tight.
