Been a while
Member
You got the filters Tony?
Yeah I got the filters, I got the filters and the money!
You got the filters and the money, oh Tonyyyyyy....Tony Tony Tony
Cobez's 2020 D23 ST
- Thread starter Cobez
- Start date
Help Support Nissan Navara Forum:
Yeah I got the filters, I got the filters and the money!
You got the filters and the money, oh Tonyyyyyy....Tony Tony Tony
And Sol's got the oil. I'll send the boys around, shall I?
Been a while
Member
if you've got the filters and the money you can do what ever you want!
Cobez
Member
New exhaust today. Easy to fit. Only a DPF back for now, obviously doesn't sound any different really as the DPF is still on there. But she breathes a little easier.
Also threw that EGR cable in the bin. They are rubbish. In went a stainless plate. Picks up a little smoother than before and doesn't have the strange hesitation in first to second gear that the cable caused.
What a ******* to fit though. Also has a nudge bar now. Picked it up $100.
Also threw that EGR cable in the bin. They are rubbish. In went a stainless plate. Picks up a little smoother than before and doesn't have the strange hesitation in first to second gear that the cable caused.
What a ******* to fit though. Also has a nudge bar now. Picked it up $100.
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Cobez
Member
Finally finished my UHF install. Entire unit and all wiring is 100% hidden. Unit is connected to the centre console via a pass through switch and RJ45 cable.
Antenna cable is hidden in the passenger side kick panels and UHF is mounted up inside the rear of the centre console and is tapped into the 12V charging point inside the centre console (pictured).
Nice and factory looking.
Antenna cable is hidden in the passenger side kick panels and UHF is mounted up inside the rear of the centre console and is tapped into the 12V charging point inside the centre console (pictured).
Nice and factory looking.
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user 10312
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Tidy instal!
Cobez
Member
Thanks mate!
There's a heap of room up under the rear of the centre console to fix it in and there's 12V power right there so it's perfect.
Then if i'm just listening in to the highway channels, i can clamp the microphone into the Nissan centre console phone holder. It's a Crystal DB447D, so they are a blank UHF module (no screen as it's all done through the mic. I believe GME make one or two units in the same fashion.
The bonnet mount for the antenna is from GMF 4x4, really nicely made simple bit of gear. Bolts straight onto the factory bonnet hinge, then i ran the antenna cable through the passenger side quarter panel and into the dash and down into the passenger kick panels and under the carpet up under the centre console.
Also did a DPF back 3" exhaust for now. Does nothing for the sound which i like. Breaths a little more free, obviously won't do a single thing for power etc as the DPF robs it all. It's still got 4 years warranty so not keen on taking that off and having to get it tuned etc just for the turbo whistle, as these TT's are bloody loud with no DPF.
There's a heap of room up under the rear of the centre console to fix it in and there's 12V power right there so it's perfect.
Then if i'm just listening in to the highway channels, i can clamp the microphone into the Nissan centre console phone holder. It's a Crystal DB447D, so they are a blank UHF module (no screen as it's all done through the mic. I believe GME make one or two units in the same fashion.
The bonnet mount for the antenna is from GMF 4x4, really nicely made simple bit of gear. Bolts straight onto the factory bonnet hinge, then i ran the antenna cable through the passenger side quarter panel and into the dash and down into the passenger kick panels and under the carpet up under the centre console.
Also did a DPF back 3" exhaust for now. Does nothing for the sound which i like. Breaths a little more free, obviously won't do a single thing for power etc as the DPF robs it all. It's still got 4 years warranty so not keen on taking that off and having to get it tuned etc just for the turbo whistle, as these TT's are bloody loud with no DPF.
Cobez
Member
Just ordered some adjustable / greasable UCA's for the Nav.
Have all the gear to run 3 + 0 lift, just needed the UCA's to fit it all correctly and get that camber back to perfect.
Also made up a mounting bar for behind the grill to run a 22" lightbar so it's tucked away nicely. Pics to come soon
Have all the gear to run 3 + 0 lift, just needed the UCA's to fit it all correctly and get that camber back to perfect.
Also made up a mounting bar for behind the grill to run a 22" lightbar so it's tucked away nicely. Pics to come soon
joe2006
Member
You seem to be having fun. Photos of the progress always good
Cobez
Member
Bloody IFS!! Hahaha.
She should sit dead straight after this and still have plenty of down travel left. Took the front and rear swaybars off as well, so much better, especially with the coil rear.
She should sit dead straight after this and still have plenty of down travel left. Took the front and rear swaybars off as well, so much better, especially with the coil rear.
Cobez
Member
Had the day off work today. Productive lightbar install. Nice factory looking switch.
Hiding the wiring into the cabin behind the dash was painstakingly annoying, but got it done.
Just have to solder some decent quality ring terminals onto the battery end of the loom tomorrow.
Hiding the wiring into the cabin behind the dash was painstakingly annoying, but got it done.
Just have to solder some decent quality ring terminals onto the battery end of the loom tomorrow.
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Cobez
Member
And the adjustable UCA's done and wheel alignment done. Rides beautifully. I rate them!
Now riding on 3" front and 0" rear lift as the S4 had a higher rear end than the S1 and S2, so it's dead straight now.
UCA's were very straight forward to fit, hardest bit was separating the steering arm linkage on the drivers side so you can push it out of the way and get the UCA bolt out.
Apart from that, very easy.
Now riding on 3" front and 0" rear lift as the S4 had a higher rear end than the S1 and S2, so it's dead straight now.
UCA's were very straight forward to fit, hardest bit was separating the steering arm linkage on the drivers side so you can push it out of the way and get the UCA bolt out.
Apart from that, very easy.
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joe2006
Member
Looking good and keeping you busy.
I always solder the electrical connections too, even though I have been told many times that they should be crimped. Perhaps it difficult to trace a dry joint but far too many times I have seen a crimped joint fail. That said, factory crimps are fine.
What's next?
I always solder the electrical connections too, even though I have been told many times that they should be crimped. Perhaps it difficult to trace a dry joint but far too many times I have seen a crimped joint fail. That said, factory crimps are fine.
What's next?
Cobez
Member
Damn straight! I agree, crimping is the lazy way, i'm not a fan. Next to perfect connection with a nicely soldered join. Then heat shrunk, a layer of Nitto tape and then conduit for protection.
Today i am fitting new inner wheel arch plastic guards. I butchered the originals when doing the suspension as it was bloody freezing in the factory and i had had enough at that stage, so i cut the guards around the UCA's with tin snips so i could get my torque wrench in there haha.
New ones were only $100 each from Nissan, not too bad i thought! So that, and fitting a small 6 LED lightbar up under the tub for a reverse light.
Also going to hit the original "bash plate" / stone deflector with a baby grinder. It completely blocks any airflow to the intercooler (its mounted just in front of the crossmember, stupid spot).
Going to cut a small section out of it and clean it up so it still does it job, but lets some airflow in to the intercooler section of the bumper.
joe2006
Member
Me too with the heat shrink and split tube. No wonder things take so long.
I will say that the Brown Davis bash plates were a good investment. Saved some serious damage on a few occasions. Once was just in the paddock after a long day cutting firewood. The same paddock took out one of my sidesteps. Clearly not a good driver
0ne hundred is pretty reasonable for the liners. When it comes to the price of spares, I reckon manufacturers generally think of a number, double it and then triple it
Cobez
Member
Me too with the heat shrink and split tube. No wonder things take so long.
I will say that the Brown Davis bash plates were a good investment. Saved some serious damage on a few occasions. Once was just in the paddock after a long day cutting firewood. The same paddock took out one of my sidesteps. Clearly not a good driver
0ne hundred is pretty reasonable for the liners. When it comes to the price of spares, I reckon manufacturers generally think of a number, double it and then triple it
Hahaha good old paddock damage mate! You can at least say you dropped into a deep muddy rut that had a big rock in it and bent it that way
New shiny inner guards are in.
Was going to buy a boost gauge, but stumbled across these (pic attached). It's an OBD2 port powered gauge. Reads EGT, boost, MAF, reads error codes and you can clear them via the gauge as well.
Bloody keen to get it actually. Plug in and pop into the pillar pod, no wiring into power for illumination etc and no tapping into a stupid tiny hose on the side of the block for boost reading.
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joe2006
Member
That looks the goods. Nice and compact.Hahaha good old paddock damage mate! You can at least say you dropped into a deep muddy rut that had a big rock in it and bent it that way
New shiny inner guards are in.
Was going to buy a boost gauge, but stumbled across these (pic attached). It's an OBD2 port powered gauge. Reads EGT, boost, MAF, reads error codes and you can clear them via the gauge as well.
Bloody keen to get it actually. Plug in and pop into the pillar pod, no wiring into power for illumination etc and no tapping into a stupid tiny hose on the side of the block for boost reading.
Not suitable for the Navara but our other ute. I have been waiting for the Aussie dollar to reach 80 cents before buying one of these. Same sort of thing but it will also do a forced regeneration as well. The way the dollars going lately, I don't think I will ever get one.
Cobez
Member
That is friggin awesome that it.can force a regen
The Nav seems to do a regen at the worst times (usually in car parks where people think your ute is on fire).
Not willing to do a DPF delete on it either tbh. The young fellas like the sound, i bloody hate it. Would **** me after a few minutes. It's way too obvious on the D23's due to the TT.
joe2006
Member
Two things I miss about the DPF no longer residing on the Nav is that it now stinks outside the car when idling and idles rough. Not sure what remap they used to do away with the DPF.That is friggin awesome that it.can force a regen
The Nav seems to do a regen at the worst times (usually in car parks where people think your ute is on fire).
Not willing to do a DPF delete on it either tbh. The young fellas like the sound, i bloody hate it. Would **** me after a few minutes. It's way too obvious on the D23's due to the TT.
Often best to leave things alone although in this instance, my DPF had a pretty catastrophic fail.
How often does your's do a burn? Our other ute does one every tank, almost without fail, so probably every 900 to 1000ks. It plays havoc with the economy.
My understanding is that my D40 will examine the sensors on the DPF every 200-300km (some random point between) and given the other requirements, will conduct a burn if needed. Other requirements being engine and vehicle speed, temperature, load etc.
