Clunking noise when first pulling away

[Lewdy]

As per title. Not long bought my first Navara, first pickup in fact.

‘10 D40, 67,000 miles, Ex-MOD Vehicle, seems in good condition so far but heaps of sand stuck up under the back body work, chassis etc suggests it’s been ragged about on a beach as part of its service

Anyway, I hear a loud clunk when I first pull away. Only seems to be when I first get in the car, never really notice it at junctions or anything. Pretty sure it’s coming from behind me.

I’d half convinced my(beginner)self it was something to do with the 4 wheel drive engaging/disengaging wheels, or the rear brakes letting go. However after a bit of reading, it seems possibly a prop shaft/ universal joint problem.

Any ideas if it could be something else?
If not what’s the best solution?
I read that an independent garage should probably replace the whole lot reasonably cheaply?
What are the possible consequences (I’ve already done at least 1000 miles like this)?

 

[Kd0603]

it could be the uni that is stuffed as it will have play in it and when you first put it in gear it will knock
does it do it every time you take off or just first time?
does it do it when u put it in reverse also?
if it is a uni problem at worse your tailshaft could fall out and leave u stuck on the side of the road.....usually at peak hour or when you pick the kids up from school
could damage transmission housing and leak fluid

 

[bods]

First question is auto or manual?

If auto, are you parked on a slope when it does it and does it only do it moving from park to another gear?

If not, refer to the post above, but if it does it on a slope, try putting the transmission in neutral and applying the park brake and let the vehicle rest on the park brake before shifting to park and see if that makes any difference.

 

[Lewdy]

Thanks for replys.

It’s a manual.

It always seems to do it when I first pull away, but now I’m listening for it it does occasionally happen at junctions etc.

 

[bods]

It could be driveline backlash. Is it any worse if you go backwards and then forwards again? If you've got somewhere flat you can try it out. If you're not sure of the service history or even for your own piece of mind it wouldn't hurt to change the driveline oils. The colour and texture of the old oil that's in there now will give you a bit of an idea of what's going on.

 

[[email protected]]

you dont want to drop a tailshaft two people have tod me they flipped their utes when the front uni collapsed and the the tail shaft dropped to the ground

 

[amber.2]

Sounds like a worn universal .

 

[Kd0603]

ive seen a tailshaft that dropped and done damage to underside of cars .never seen one catapult a car but have seen them turn ti spaghetti and damage floor pans , brake lines electrical and fuel lines when fronts drop as well as damage the diff housing where the shaft bolts up.....thats why all my cars have had tailshaft hoops

 

[pol327]

Hi Lewdy,
I hear what you have said but consider this as well. Is this more of a thump that you can feel thru the vehicle but not necessarily loud ?
My 2014 D40 does what I have described and to date I have not been able to isolate the issue. When I initially take off and accelerate under normal to heavy throttle there is what I can best describe as a thump that has the feeling of a broken engine mount. That is, its a though the engine lifts and then thumps back down or lifts and thumps or hits against the stop tag on the mount. Check all your mounts first.
Unfortunately the mounts are fine, to isolate the possibility of a soft engine mount on my D40 I placed a rubber block in the mount to prevent it lifting against the stop tag, this made no difference.
One thing I have noticed is that when the car is cold it usually does not do it. You can start replacing parts but that may become an expensive exercise.
Removing the drive shaft and checking the universals first would be advisable. If the unis are worn they will be either flogged out and loose or seized and really notchy when worked/rotated. If unis are flogged out generally the is a vibration at speed.

 

[navarian]

As well as checking the driveline. i would also check that the load sensing valve is adjusted correctly.

 

[[email protected]]

on my d22 4x4 i had a worn short driveshaft that engages the front drive ,the uni were fine but the inner and outer shaft were worn it was floppy when you shook it (never been greased) this shaft turns all the time?

 

[pol327]

Hi izzibri. D22 4WD. Whilst in 2 wheel drive the front drive shaft is stationary unless the free wheeling hubs are engaged, that is unless the vehicle is driven around with 4 wheel high selected.

As to the load sensing valve, I would take it you are referring to the valve for rear brakes ? This valve controls the amount of hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes dependent on the weight in the rear of the vehicle so I cannot see this would have any bearing on the thumping issue.
Unless you are referring to another valve. Cheers Ian.

 

[navarian]

I know what the valve does. I have no scientific explanation. Worked on mine.

 

[Starsky]

I had a similar problem as described on my D40 Spanish build 2013 auto it occurred mainly after I reversed out of the driveway..
It turned out to be an axle seal that let oil pass into the rear left brake drum.
The oil caused the shoe to swell over a period of time it would stick to the drum causing a clunk as it released. Eventually the shoe was so swollen it stopped the axle turning and I had to manually adjust my brake so I could take it in for repairs.

 

[fuzzylogic]

my 2008 D40 Thai build manual did it, turned out to be the rear diff on it's way out...

 

[sossel]

X2 for the leaky axle seal, mine got so bad that the handbrake would jam on and i had to go forward and then back to get it to release. Replaced the seals, bearings and brake shoes and problem solved.

 

[billy72]

Hi,
2013 D40 ST Manual, mine started to do this on fast starts and also with a slight vibration which started at 110kph, found it to be a stuffed driveshaft universal. Replaced it and no problems ever since.

 

[danA]

HI guys - my first post but been reading heaps. Well in the theme of thuds... for a long time I have been hearing (and feeling) a thud when i come to a stop. It probably happens 50-70% of the time. Doesn't matter if i brake fast or slow. When i come to a complete stop, then after half a second or so, there is a thud. Not loud and would probably be unnoticeable if music on loud. I hear it and sort of feel it. My mechanic said there was just a touch of play in the universal joint but nothing critical. From the above comments I gather it's best to get it replaced (if that is the cause)?
Dan
D40 ST 2014 Auto

 

[Lewdy]

Hi Lewdy,
I hear what you have said but consider this as well. Is this more of a thump that you can feel thru the vehicle but not necessarily loud ?
My 2014 D40 does what I have described and to date I have not been able to isolate the issue. When I initially take off and accelerate under normal to heavy throttle there is what I can best describe as a thump that has the feeling of a broken engine mount. That is, its a though the engine lifts and then thumps back down or lifts and thumps or hits against the stop tag on the mount. Check all your mounts first.
Unfortunately the mounts are fine, to isolate the possibility of a soft engine mount on my D40 I placed a rubber block in the mount to prevent it lifting against the stop tag, this made no difference.
One thing I have noticed is that when the car is cold it usually does not do it. You can start replacing parts but that may become an expensive exercise.
Removing the drive shaft and checking the universals first would be advisable. If the unis are worn they will be either flogged out and loose or seized and really notchy when worked/rotated. If unis are flogged out generally the is a vibration at speed.

Thanks for everyone’s replies sorry I’ve not logged on for a bit to see them.

That description fits, apart from the noise is definitely coming from behind me.

 

[Lewdy]

I had a similar problem as described on my D40 Spanish build 2013 auto it occurred mainly after I reversed out of the driveway..
It turned out to be an axle seal that let oil pass into the rear left brake drum.
The oil caused the shoe to swell over a period of time it would stick to the drum causing a clunk as it released. Eventually the shoe was so swollen it stopped the axle turning and I had to manually adjust my brake so I could take it in for repairs.

Thanks, that is interesting as in my original post when I first heard the noise I thought it was something to do with the back brakes releasing like on a disc brake that’s been handbraked for a few weeks and gets a bit stuck and you hear it un-sticking when you pull away.