How much current are you ripping out of the batteries Nathan. Any idea. I realize the longer you weld for the more amps your taking. But im curious.
not exactly sure mate, i wouldnt recommend welding up a full chassis lol but to zap a tie rod together with a bolt laid onto it or something similar it will get you home.
here is a you tube vid on how to.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PV5oLPLUzrM
Thanks. I had seen it done before on tv. But was always curious about if you weld something which gets you going again. But then you stuck with a flat battery. Lol
suppose its a chance you would have take
I think the bigger issue would be if you only had the one battery... having 2 it will spread the discharge across both of them, but should really draw anymore than cranking the motor I wouldn't have thought....Thanks. I had seen it done before on tv. But was always curious about if you weld something which gets you going again. But then you stuck with a flat battery. Lol
suppose its a chance you would have take
I think the bigger issue would be if you only had the one battery... having 2 it will spread the discharge across both of them, but should really draw anymore than cranking the motor I wouldn't have thought....
That's what I was getting at....you cant do it with one, you need to have at least 24volt and to get that you need to use two 12v batteries as shown in my crappy drawing.
it actually works better with more then two but you can do it with two good enough to get a weld going
no that was done with some jumper leads and two batteries connected together to create a 24v temp welder, you just need two sets of jumper leads and a low amp set of welding rods
Looks the goods... be strong as all hell. If you didn't need to adjust toe from them that would be a great setup for strength in general...
I was wondering if you could build an adjustable drag link, but you wouldn't be able to adjust toe on each wheel separately, which would be a problem... it's just that rie rod adjuster that breaks from hitting the bump stop mount on the chassis...
That's thrown some more food for thought in then... I wonder what the strength would be like with that sleeve welded to the rod in the middle, possibly by drilling some holes or cutting slits in the center. Without welding it to the tie rods I reckon it should still have a fair lot of strength in it and be adjustable.....
it's just that rie rod adjuster that breaks from hitting the bump stop mount on the chassis...
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