Black smoke following a dpf regen

Nissan Navara Forum

Help Support Nissan Navara Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

joking

Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2023
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Location
Adelaide
Hi Guys,

Firstly thanks for your help in advance.

Following helping a mate out move some furniture the DPF light came on and I got a Dpf regen done.

After the oil and filter change the dpf light came on within 15 kms and I was told that the dpf sensor had gone.
I replaced it.

But now the dpf light is coming on intermittently and in first gear (Its an auto) I get some black smoke and the power in 1st is not there.
I made a discovery that the Egr inlet had a blanking plate in it.
I have attached a photo of a hose (I am looking to replace it...Part number?.As it seems to have alot of gunge on the outside and the jubliee clip doesnt seem standard)
Does the egr need replacing ?
For the record once I am out of 1st gear it seems to drive fine but after stopping or hill climbs it puffs black smoke and the fuel efficiency is terrible.

Any help is much appreciated.
This forum
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20230214_165705.jpg
    IMG_20230214_165705.jpg
    770.4 KB
  • IMG_20230214_165432.jpg
    IMG_20230214_165432.jpg
    727.5 KB
The hose you're thinking of replacing goes from the intercooler to the intake. It's going to have black oily substance inside because of the blow-by that enters the air intake just in front of the turbocharger (look for a hose about 25mm diameter). I don't have a part number for it.

Removing the EGR block will increase the soot level produced by the engine.

It might be worth checking the turbocharger control. Does yours have a black tube going to the top of the turbo actuator (round gold part) or does it have wires?
 
Right, it's vacuum controlled (like mine). The heat of the DPF regen may have caused some of the vac hoses to perish just enough to allow vacuum to be lost, giving the loss of power and additional black smoke. It's worth checking the hoses out. The BCS is often a culprit here too but if it's all working most of the time I'd suggest you've had a minor loss of vacuum and therefore power - most noticeable in low gear.
 
Hi Tony,
Just attached some more pictures.
Of the outside of the intercooler pipe and the turbo charger control.
Let me know what you think ?
I think this is what you mean.
The pipe look like they have been replaced.What do you think ?
Cheers
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20230214_212947.jpg
    IMG_20230214_212947.jpg
    851.6 KB
  • IMG_20230214_213003.jpg
    IMG_20230214_213003.jpg
    949.2 KB
  • IMG_20230214_213057.jpg
    IMG_20230214_213057.jpg
    785.9 KB
  • IMG_20230214_212939.jpg
    IMG_20230214_212939.jpg
    661.2 KB
  • IMG_20230214_212919.jpg
    IMG_20230214_212919.jpg
    518.2 KB
Right, it's vacuum controlled (like mine). The heat of the DPF regen may have caused some of the vac hoses to perish just enough to allow vacuum to be lost, giving the loss of power and additional black smoke. It's worth checking the hoses out. The BCS is often a culprit here too but if it's all working most of the time I'd suggest you've had a minor loss of vacuum and therefore power - most noticeable in low gear.
Hi Tony,
Can you point me in the direction of where to buy the pipes?
Would it be 4mm vacuum line hose?
From the photo i attached thy dont look too good?
 
Last edited:
Supercheap Auto sell a pack of 3m lengths of 3mm ID hose (it's blue, too). This stuff is perfect. Your hoses look very ... experienced.

There doesn't look to be any boost leak from the intercooler hose although it too looks like it's begging for some Long Service Leave at least.
 
Thanks Tony,
I just changed the Vacuum hoses today.
Took it for a drive ..power seems better but still getting a puff of black smoke when taking off.
Um...Any thoughts ?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20230215_172115.jpg
    IMG_20230215_172115.jpg
    1.9 MB
Our ECUs are "learning" ECUs. They remember fuel requirements for load/demand/speed. It's possible that yours has learned a bad habit because of the lack of boost.

Two ways to reset this:

1) Mechanic's scan tool. There's a function to reset the fuel map in there.

2) On your own (no helper), pop your bonnet, get out, close your door, remove the battery connection (batt negative is good enough) and then open your door and press the brake pedal. This consumes any remaining power in the ECU forcing a reset. NOTE: you will need the radio PIN, and if you use the tripmeter to calculate fuel economy, you'll lose that info so write it down too.

There's a pedal dance to reset too, it involves the driver's door and at least brake and accelerator pedals but it's a PITA.
 
Tony well after a few days everything seems to be back to normal.
Thank you so much for all your help with this.
Can't thank you enough.
:)
 

Latest posts

Back
Top