3.0 litre EGR/Butterfly/Swirl Mod

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Gday, I just did the egr blocking plate, havn't noticed a difference in power BUT the pyro sits on close to 650 degrees C at 18 PSI boost, put the swirl connecter back on and no difference, only went to 500 degrees before, the pyro sender is after the cat so the temp in the turbo outlet may be a little higher is this normal???

I will be moving the sender soon but after sorting out the vacuum hoses the 'after the cat' temps have dropped to a max of 530 degrees, thanks for you input...
 
EGR complete. Thanks to Dave for the plates. Will test run it on Monday, but it seemed to start ALOT smoother and run smoother whilst cold.
 
I have definitely noticed some better low down power, specially when cold.
Engine does seem to warm up faster but I'm only going by engine temp gauge as don't have a pyro for the egt.

Damn those vac hoses are a b*tch though!
Only had this motor for 1000km's and check out the gasket that was between manifold for egr intake.
Ohh.. Ps.. This was after I had to clean it coz dropped out down bottom of motor :p

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Nice work on the pics.

Oh and the pics needed approving.

After 10 posts they wont need to be.
 
WOW! 27 pages later.... Great info guys, will be having a bash at the mod soon..

just 1 question though (did get asked just 1 or 2 pages back but I didnt see a clear answer)

what are the pros and cons of blocking both top and bottom? I'm not exactly the most mechanically skilled individual and I would be much more confident to take on just the top rather than go to the effort to gain access to the bottom.

should I get some help to block both or will it be alright to just do the inlet manifold?

Cheers
Porch
 
Porch, think of it like this: if you have a garden hose and it's absolutely empty and you fit a nozzle to the end of it and turn that nozzle OFF, then hook the hose up to the tap and turn the tap ON, how much water flows?

Same deal here. It doesn't matter which end of the pipe is blocked, there won't be any actual flow through the pipe. There'll be a trickle of soot arriving inside it but other than that it will be quite effective blocked from either end.

Blocking at the intake manifold side might be the better option not only for ease of access, but also because there's less heat over that side, so your gasket won't be subjected to as much stress.
 
Cheers Tony, will be gettin on it next weekend once I scrounge up some scrap steel lying round the house =D
 
Just did the mod, took i reckon all of 15minutes to do hoses an gasket. Didnt have any stainless handy so used some ally i had. The gasket measured roughly 0.8mm, the plate i made was about 0.9mm which is jus lucky cos i woulda used it if it was 3mm. Bit worried about the alluminium plate corroding and going thru the engine so smeared it both sides with copper silastic, thoughts?
 

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I heard - and I'm not sure if it's just a story or if it really happened - that someone who'd used an aluminium plate there had the plate melt and the droplets entered the engine causing damage. If it's true it's likely that the plate was at the exhaust manifold side of the EGR tube not the intake manifold side.

Either way I think aluminium is not worth using. You can get stainless steel piece large enough from a stainless fabricator place's scrap bin (that's where I got mine from). They didn't even charge me for it.

The sealer should be Permatex Ultra Blue Sensor-Safe Gasket Cement, available from Supercheap Auto and elsewhere. Click here to see the one I mean. Seal BOTH sides of the gasket - the intake side to stop boost leak, the exhaust side to stop exhaust leak.
 
Thanks, yeah idid the intake manifold one, used pretty much the same product that you mentioned except its the hi-temp silicone gasket cos thats what i had. I smeared both sides as thin as it would go on after a sand and a clean, more as protection against corrosion than anything, cos the alluminium i used is probably soft enough to create its own seal. I'll keep an eye on it until i find a bit of s/s and make a new one.
 
I posted this in the EGR thread (it looked old so thought I'd post here also.
G'day, as you can see I am new here. Originally got here to check out a IC for my girl got interested in a couple of other topics, been reading the thread on the EGR blocking plate and a couple comments about building oil box and extra oil coming into intake because of the plate.
I noticed somewhere in my reading at least one person blocked at the exhaust end. I am wondering if it was blocked at the exhaust end or on the lower point on the inlet side, would that stop the excess oil being returned to the inlet?.. My thoughts here are maybe the pressure from the exhaust is pushing the EGR gas into the sump and back out to the inlet?
 
The reason for the increase in oil is because the combustion is more effective = increase in blow-by. It's a very small amount of increase, hardly worth worrying about.

EGR is NOT directly connected to the sump. Exhaust gas coming out of the crankcase (via the PCV) gets there from blow-by - the combustion gas that seeps past the piston as the piston is being pushed down.
 
i've had one person say their fuel ecomonmy went worse after blocking egr. however he also had intercoler and other mods which may have been the cause.

Do you remember what IC set up & other mods this bloke had tweak'e?
 
Do you remember what IC set up & other mods this bloke had tweak'e?

can't remember what IC but he had the turbo outlet pipe going directly in front of the air intake. so all the incoming air would have been heated fairly badly.
would have made the turbo less efficient and as blocking egr etc puts more work on the turbo, drawing more air through the turbo, the inefficient turbo made the engine inefficient. hence used more fuel.
well thats my theroy, the last i heard he connected egr back up and left intake as is. so i have no idea if that was the cause or not.
 
^ Ta.

I'm running the Cross Country top mount - so hopefully this wont be an issue.
 
has anybody removed the whole egr pipe? is it just 3 bolts at turbo side and 2 bolts plenum side?

or is there a bolt on the back of the head?
 
has anybody removed the whole egr pipe? is it just 3 bolts at turbo side and 2 bolts plenum side?

or is there a bolt on the back of the head?

just the bolts at the ends. nothing holding it anywhere else tho its a real tight fit around the back of the head. mine had broken off at the exhaust end so it was a little easier to remove.
 

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