2" lift

[user 10312]

400KG or more! I do know the only difference between EFS +150 and 300 KG is they remove the 2nd. longest leaf. Maybe that is possible with Pedders. If circumstances change and you need it, can add the extra leaf latter. Just a thought. have chat to them.

 

[joe2006]

If only after shocks, it's much cheaper to purchase Bilstein's out of the US from places like Summit Racing. Obviously need to be confident that you purchase the right ones due to name and model variations over there.
I purchased a set of 4 Bilstein 5100's for a Chev from RockAuto and they were under $500 AUD delivered, just before RockAuto was forced to charge GST.

 

[Monsta]

If anyone wants a cheap set of Bilstein 5100s, I have a set that I took off my D40 when I put my adjustable Tough Dogs back on. They have only done about 40,000 km and they still work just the same as when they were new. The position of the spring base on the front struts is adjustable so that you can adjust the amount of lift. I would be pleased to get them out of my way.

 

[longshanks]

Haha I'll take them!

 

[Monsta]

If anyone wants a cheap set of Bilstein 5100s, I have a set that I took off my D40 when I put my adjustable Tough Dogs back on. They have only done about 40,000 km and they still work just the same as when they were new. The position of the spring base on the front struts is adjustable so that you can adjust the amount of lift. I would be pleased to get them out of my way.

If you want them, email me at [email protected]
Peter

 

[Tonka Truck]

Well, I have purchased the Raw 45mm lift kit and installed. Its a different car to drive now and handles a lot better.

 

[difflock]

im waiting on my bilsteins for my np300 which im matching with king springs and lashing out and getting the alloy upper control arms from superior engineering... was there a problem with the bilsteins...

 

[user 10312]

Looks great Tonka! Gotta be happy with that.

 

[Tonka Truck]

Thanks Tappet, Very happy!! After finding out how much it costs to lift a Navara any higher than 45mm or so, I wont be going any higher with suspension. I am considering a 50mm cabin and tub lift. I am told its an easy and inexpensive thing to do and looks pretty good too.

Any thoughts from anybody on a 50mm body lift?

 

[Tonka Truck]

im waiting on my bilsteins for my np300 which im matching with king springs and lashing out and getting the alloy upper control arms from superior engineering... was there a problem with the bilsteins...

Hi Difflock,
From what I have learnt recently, Bilsteins are one of the best to use if you have the coin to shell out, I used the Fulcrum Raw brand shockers all round with King springs. I would only replace the control arms if I was lifting it more than the 45mm in suspension and a serious 4WDer. I am not a serious 4WDer so I lifted my D23 45mm and still had enough adjustment left to align the front end successfully again with the original control arms and bushes. But once you have the you beaut control arms and bushes ($$$$$) you can lift your Navara a few more inches. Then I am told you need diff drops and engineering etc etc.... Also, they say it is roughly $1000 per inch of lift on a Navara once you go over 2" lift. I guess thats if you do it properly. I did see a Navara like mine lifted about 6 inches or more recently and it looked amazing.

 

[Tonka Truck]

Well guys, I have now added the 50mm body lift. Just installed the blocks yesterday. Looks great and you can really feel the difference. Two things, the height of the car and the manual gearshift in mine is noticeably shorter but doesn't hit anywhere while changing gears. I will post a picture soon.
If you do a body lift of two inches you have watch out for one or two things as the guys from LuxLifts in Tassie where I purchased my body lift kit from on Ebay don't give you any instructions. None of the manufacturers do I don't think. So your on your own installing them. In my 2018 D23 king cab with the standard tub you get 3 different diameter blocks. The 8 small diameter blocks lift the tub, the next 2 slightly bigger ones I put right up front of the cab behind the bumper bar and the largest 4 rear of the cab and center of the cab. You have to be careful when undoing the original bolts. You cannot use a rattle gun because you may break one of the captive nuts inside the body. If you break one of these you are in the **** as you cannot get to them to replace them. There is a way but you are drilling through the floor inside the cab to get to it. Lucky for me I didn't have that issue. I used a breaker bar to undo all the bolts. The bolts under the tub all had Loctite along the full length of the thread so it was hard work undoing them. Something they don't tell you is that the bottom half of the fan shroud has to come off or the fan will foul with it. I only found this as I went looking for things that might be stretched due to the 2" lift. Also before starting the job, I loosened the steering knuckle just inside the drivers side wheel well so it could move if required in the process. it is now at its longest adjustment.
I will be making up some covers to hide/fill in the gap between the chassis and the tub as there is a 2 inch gap where you can see right through and out the other side of the tub. As I said, I will post some pics as soon as I take some.
Overall, a fairly easy lift to do. But if you break a captive nut that could all change.
Cheers Guys.

 

[user 10312]

Sounds like a nice result. Good write up to. Thanks

 

[BrentL]

Hey Tonga,
i was wondering if you’ve gone down the route of actually getting and engineering certificate done for the body lift. And if so did you have any problems getting it done?

 

[Tonka Truck]

Hi BrentL,
Planning to ask that question, will let you know how that goes when I do.