I think first up I would be looking at why the battery light is on. What voltage are you getting across the battery while the light is on (with car running)?
It's whatever works best for you.
Really aggressive AT's and muddies are very heavy, strong tyres with strong side walls that can be run at lower pressures. They usually have a higher load rating too (though sometimes lower speed rating) and are excellent off road or even on back country...
Generally for off roading you're better off not going to larger diameter wheels. You usually travel at lower speeds with less tyre pressure off road. You want the higher profile, so the sidewall deforms to an extent (generally speaking) to get a longer track. A lot more comfortable also...
The STR's have 265/70/r16 as standard, so that should be ok. Will be wider and slightly taller. Think if you want wider than that you'll need different rims.
Muddies are a better tyre for dirt as they have better traction and are generally much stronger all round. Though you might have to trade...
Not certain about this (have never tried to take one of these off) but I think it's pressed fit. At least it has to be snug and waterproof. It might be easier to try pushing something flexible through there to see if it's blocked.
Not sure it would make such a difference to temperature either...
Can understand the concern there. Not trying to be a smart arse at all (and I can definately be slow lol), but what will an extra filter do for you if you get a bad batch of fuel?
Happened to me twice. Both times I got just far enough that I had to limp for a couple hours back out of the scrub...
That isn't many kms for an engine to be basically clapped out, needing a rebore, replacement rings etc.
Could also be in the head ie. leaking valves or valve timing?
Has it been overheated? A cracked head can make cars run rough while cold and difficult to start (until the metal expands)...
Hesitate to say this (don't want to jinx it) but I have an '04 fast approaching 400,000kms. So I suppose if it clags it it has earned its keep anyway. Only engine modifications are an intercooler and catch can, apart from that it's stock. Those miles are misleading also as it's spent so much of...
They all look much the same mate, steel or alloy. If you call them or send them your vin they'll usually let you know if they have the exact one, usually do on ebay also.
Mine were full of mud/dirt and corrosion so I just bought the cheapest I could find off fleabay, cut the plugs off and...
Should have what you need here mate. Or you can shop around on fleabay, stacks of them there, that's where I got mine.
https://navarapart.com.au/category/bullbar-lights
Not sure about having such a fine filter in line with the factory one, extra restriction. Should probably be ok if you have lift pump though. The only benefit I can see is that the factory filter might last longer between changes?
Often thought about putting a sediment/water trap in pre filter...
ps. Yes, they were zd30 until about '07-'08.
The main thing with these is to get one that has been serviced. If things like oil and filter, fuel filters, coolant change are are done at scheduled intervals, then they last. The same as any car.
The zd30 aren't such a problem in the navs, unlike the patrols. They are set up entirely differently. In fact that model are one of the better, more reliable navs.
Souping a little 4 cylinder up to try getting a patrol moving wasn't a great idea. The nav is more old school and basic. Has a...
You won't find many with the seal that goes between filter and housing where it screws on (though I have one) as most people wouldn't bother. You won't get one with a filter either. They seem to be more common on the patrols.
It's very unlikely to cause your problem. At worst it will allow a...
Mate, you left out the most important part! Not only effective for fan belts but fixes ball joints and nearly anything else. Get a spare tin and it won't matter if you run out of tomato sauce! lol.