Newbie having problems

[waynesworld]

Hi all, I have just registered to hopefully get some help. I have a 2013 Nissan NV350 with an YD25 engine. It idles very rough on start up until it gets warm. No smoke. Initially, it would start/idle fine, but if it was driven before it was warmed up it would lose power and stop. It would nearly flatten the battery trying to get it going again. Now I have had it to two different diesel repair places and it is literally 10 times worse.
It has had a new SCV, crank sensor and fuel pressure sensor. It only really happens when it has been sitting for a few hours and once it is warm (5 or 10min) it runs perfectly fine. It feels like it is seeping air.
It has 120k on the clock. Not sure if this is coincidence or not.....it was perfectly fine until it came back from been serviced. The fuel filter also has been replaced. Any ideas, I am about at the end of my tether here.
Thanks heaps
Edit, sorry about the crappy video

 

[Been a while]

Yup, air! I know nothing of your model but try priming/bleeding the lines again!
Look in the manual and see if there are any little seals in the filter they've missed or lost... check for tightness, monkeys do forget stuff, trust me I know

You could try the hair dryer down the inlet next time it does it but it does sound like priming issues or air leak.. if she's getting air, fuel and has compression it should start, sounds like fuel!

 

[[email protected]]

remove the air supply hose to throttle body and check that the flap should be stable if its swinging from open to close , disconnect the electrical power coupling and run the engine

 

[waynesworld]

remove the air supply hose to throttle body and check that the flap should be stable if its swinging from open to close , disconnect the electrical power coupling and run the engine

Thanks mate. I just checked it. Flap is stable but I did note it is quite oily in there? Took the egr off and cleaned/checked and reinstalled. Need to let it sit over night to check. It is chewing fuel like crazy. Dash tells me around 8km/l

 

[[email protected]]

try this

 

[Wollie364]

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[Wollie364]

Yip I had the same issue, I know that your fuel filter has just been replace, however, mine came right after replacing the fuel filter myself. Went to BNT and got a Fram Filter and all my issues came right. Your could also be glow plugs as the 25yttd is a cold girl and likes to be heated up properl.

 

[waynesworld]

Yip I had the same issue, I know that your fuel filter has just been replace, however, mine came right after replacing the fuel filter myself. Went to BNT and got a Fram Filter and all my issues came right. Your could also be glow plugs as the 25yttd is a cold girl and likes to be heated up properl.

Thanks heaps mate. Yeah that's been playing on my mind a bit. I just bought one yesterday, bloody thing must be lined with gold LOL. You have just convinced me to do it.....I am literally out of options.

 

[waynesworld]

try this

Thank you for sharing this. I will have a go at this tomorrow.
Chhers

 

[waynesworld]

Just an update, replaced fuel filter, no difference damn it. Tried the reset thing but couldn't get it to work. This is an NV350 van, I don't know if this will work on this model. Next step is to check injectors I think.

 

[landmannnn]

Your first check is to find out if you have air in the fuel system.

You have a primer bulb near the fuel filter, squeeze this until it goes firm. Then see if the van starts and runs ok. If the bulb does not get firm then you have an air leak.

If the bulb does get firm, but you still have the same issues, it is likely the glow plugs or the relay are at fault.

 

[waynesworld]

Your first check is to find out if you have air in the fuel system.

You have a primer bulb near the fuel filter, squeeze this until it goes firm. Then see if the van starts and runs ok. If the bulb does not get firm then you have an air leak.

If the bulb does get firm, but you still have the same issues, it is likely the glow plugs or the relay are at fault.

Hey thanks for that. I have tried the bulb previously, replaced spring clamps with hose clamps. I ruled glow plugs out as its not just a starting problem, even when running it is consuming huge amounts of fuel. Which relay are you referring to?

 

[Old.Tony]

8LPHK isn't huge for a vehicle that weighs around 2 tonnes (our Navara utes - which is what we specialise in here at the Navara forum, who would have thought eh?) get that and higher (my best is actually 10.2LPHK and worst ... well, let's just say I haven't broken 30 LPHK but I've been nearby).

I'd prime the fuel system. But I'd do it a little differently: once the primer gets firm, KEEP PRIMING IT. You can't hurt the system or overpressurise it. You CAN cause diesel to come out of a leak - that's what you want to do! Pump away until you find diesel dripping from somewhere and fix the leak.

That's what it sounds like. They don't like air in the fuel system at all. Overpriming it will help you find the leak. It might even just be the water sensor in the fuel filter - that's happened to me. I just overprimed it, found fuel leaking from the bottom of the filter, discovered the water sensor wasn't in firmly and fixed it in seconds.

 

[Nig]

Your first check is to find out if you have air in the fuel system.

You have a primer bulb near the fuel filter, squeeze this until it goes firm. Then see if the van starts and runs ok. If the bulb does not get firm then you have an air leak.

If the bulb does get firm, but you still have the same issues, it is likely the glow plugs or the relay are at fault.

If the primer gets firm and goes spongy after you drive it you have a air to fuel problem. What primer has it got one on top of the filter housing??, if so check the unit is tight, tighten the phillips head screw , the plunger button shouldnt turn at all, and wont seal. this was one of a series of probs mine had,

 

[waynesworld]

If the primer gets firm and goes spongy after you drive it you have a air to fuel problem. What primer has it got one on top of the filter housing??, if so check the unit is tight, tighten the phillips head screw , the plunger button shouldnt turn at all, and wont seal. this was one of a series of probs mine had,

Thanks mate. Primer on top of the filter. Are you saying the primer should stay firm once pressured up? Engine on or off
Thanks heaps mate

 

[Nig]

Yeah bro had that prob with mine.now ita always solid. Somtimes it Something so simple and over looked.

 

[waynesworld]

So the injectors got pulled and tested, no problem. They reckon the compression is the problem 210,210,190 170. These numbers mean nothing to me, interested to hear from you guys.

 

[[email protected]]

minimum compressssion should be 300 psi max 500 psi .. AT 170 PSI TO 200 PSI I DONT THINK IT CAN START.If YOUR readings are psi i would expect lots of smoke on start up and always smelly. (UNBURNT FUEL) NO SMOKE THEN THEN THERE IS NO FUEL GETTING TO ENGINE The hunting of engine is either fuel or timing (does it have a cam shaft sensor) is your engine YD25DDTI. A modern diesel engine with a fault wont have fuel supplied to injectors
Genuine Nissan Navara D40 Crankshaft Cam/Camshaft Position Sensor

Part number 23731EC00A

ENGINE YD25DDTI

THERE SHOULD BE SOME FAULT CODES COMMING UP IF THERE ARE FAULTY SENSORS​

 

[Old.Tony]

Agreed, not only is the compression low but there's too much variance, particularly cylinder 4.

You might just have stuck piston rings - but you could also have worn bores. Excessive blow-by would point to either being possible, if there's a howling gale coming out the PCV at idle it needs to be examined. To check this, remove the small (about 25mm outside diameter) hose that connects to the air intake just in front of the turbo - that's the PCV.

Remove the glow plugs again and disconnect the injectors (electrically).

Measure the compression in cylinder 1. Note it down. Put a small amount of engine oil in the cylinder and crank it a little then measure the compression again. Note the new value (I'd expect it to rise). Repeat for the other three cylinders in the same way.

If you get significant variation in the readings you'd probably want to pull the block, hone the bore, replace the piston rings and reassemble.

You could try one of those products for "stuck piston rings" - Seafoam is among the more reputable products. With the car parked on a level surface, put some into the glow plug hole and let the engine sit for a day (or two if possible). Reinstall the glows, start the engine for about a minute then remove the glows and re-test the compression. A rise in compression signals success - no change means there is probably a problem in the bore itself and needs specialist attention. If one or more cylinders see improvement but some don't - you could try treating it again.

 

[Horatius]

That isn't many kms for an engine to be basically clapped out, needing a rebore, replacement rings etc.

Could also be in the head ie. leaking valves or valve timing?

Has it been overheated? A cracked head can make cars run rough while cold and difficult to start (until the metal expands).

Wouldn't explain why all cylinders seem to be low on compression though.

Will be interesting what they diagnose.