What oil's are you using ?

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Dave

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Post up the brand and the specific's.

Post up what model you have aswell and the engine model and in the D40 boy's case if its manual or auto. Us D22 boy's only get the choice of stick shift.

Post away.

I am making this a sticky, because this question is bound to come up lots of time's in the future.

Dave.
 
Sep 02 D22, 117,000kms have only ever used Penrite HPR 15 Diesel every 5000kms, never had a problem, unsure if there are better products but this stuff hasnt let me down yet..
 
D22, zd30, fuchs TITAN ULTRA MC 15w-40 API CJ-4(i think will have to check). oil change interval 10,000km. unfortunatly the one we used to have (10w-40 CI-4) is no longer made. i would prefer the CI-4 grade over the DPF friendly CJ-4.

the vehicle with EGR the oil is thick and very black, the vehicle without EGR the oil is moderately black and has the consistency of new oil.

even at the $200 for 20l its still cheaper than what the local garages charge for lower grade oils.
 
05 D22 Navara

Engine - Caltex Delo Gold
Gearbox and Transfer - Penrite Transaxle 75
Rear diff - Penrite Limslip 140
Front diff - Any 80 - 90 gear oil
 
Woops, forgot about this thread.

I am running Valvoline Durablend 10W-40 through my STR.

I am happy with it, just miss that diesel chatter when the motor was still tight and wearing in. You know the sound, dead cold and sounded like a 2.8TD TF Rodeo.

I think the rest of the driveline runs Castrol oil's, cant remeber as my mechanic does as I cant be bothered.

Dave.
 
I have always used Penrite HRP15 but recently changed to Castrol RX Super After reading a few bad things about Penrite. Thought Id give something else a go.

It stays cleaner or longer and sounds quieter.
 
Ever thought of putting a hydrogen generater on. It cleans all of the carbon out of the engine and keeps the oil relativly clean and saves some fuel as well, plus a little extra power.I have been using it for about three years and wouldnt be without it. If anyones interested I'll explain how to make one etc.
I have a D40 2006 done 73000 km, first oil change at 8000 km was black as, could not see dipstick through oil,after using hydro generater for next 8000km, oil was back to slightly discoloured but able to see dipstick through oil. and been like that ever since.
 
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Ever thought of putting a hydrogen generater on. It cleans all of the carbon out of the engine and keeps the oil relativly clean and saves some fuel as well, plus a little extra power.I have been using it for about three years and wouldnt be without it. If anyones interested I'll explain how to make one etc.
 
Ever thought of putting a hydrogen generater on. It cleans all of the carbon out of the engine and keeps the oil relativly clean and saves some fuel as well, plus a little extra power.I have been using it for about three years and wouldnt be without it. If anyones interested I'll explain how to make one etc.

nah bugger that. water/alchol injection is safer and gets better results. cleans all the carbon out as well.
 
better to start another thread on it.
but basically its two fold, alcohol is fuel but it also evaporates and cools. water cools. it can cool the intake air but also cools in the cylinder. therefore you can run more boost or more timing.
in a diesel the alcohol acts a lot like lpg or HHO does, ie gas state spread through the cylinder. however it doesn't have the ignition and burns problems hydrogen has. it burns providing power. water turns to steam and you get a bit of the old fashion steam engine effect.

one other bonus is it cleans the carbon of the intake as well as the combustion areas.

downside is getting cheap alcohol. lpg fuel is cheaper but costs more to install.
and also because the alcohol is mixed with water you don't use a huge amount of it.
HHO, your burning diesel to make it so its not as cheap as it seams.
 
to generate hydrogen and oxygen, which is what you get,it takes no more than 15 amps, which is about equal to having the headlights on, which a lot of people do, day and night,and think nothing of it, and you get at least 1-2 km per lt better economy and a little extra power plus it cleans inside of engine as a bonus. I havent tested it but its supposed to be good for the enviroment as well, less pollutants. I know it cleans inside of engine because a toyota landcruiser ute I had cracked a head because the viscus fan died on a hot day and overheated things a bit. When I pulled head off I wiped the head and top of block and pistons with a piece of cloth and it came up shiney clean, no scraping carbon off.
I guess its a matter of choice, the alchol cost could equal the cost of driving with lights on.
 
To answer Laiths question about hydrogen, theres a lot of info on the web, type in hydrogen fuel on google and there is heaps there. dont believe all you see because a lot is bs. basically I have found that stainless steel pipe about 50 mm in dia with another inside with about 3mm to 5mm gap and approx 200mm to 250mm long works pretty good.My current one has three pipes and I have neg to outer and inner pipe and pos to middle pipe. neg should always be outer and pos inner, neg generates hydrogen and pos generates oxygen. Tap water will work without a catilist but gets dirty fairly quick, I use baking soda because its safe and it works. baking soda is a nutralising agent and wont rust or corrode any parts,less than half a teaspoon is plenty and I use rainwater or distilled water, it stays cleaner longer. for a water container I use pvc pipe by 150mm with glued on bottom cap and threaded top about 30cm total height. Dont need to go over 15 amps. connect the wireing to ignition through a relay and use an amp meter, amp meter is the eyes of the outfit and tell how things are going.Can be located in boot of car or back of ute, better away from heat of engine.Connect suitable hose from hydro gen to intake manifold before turbo.
That should get you started and its all about experimentation, so have fun and save some money.Dont hesitate to ask questions.
 
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