What oil's are you using ?

[happy john]

Re the re-learn, Nissan suggest doing that after a filter change as the ecu sees a partly blocked or dirty filter as a need to push the fuel harder. All they do is a ecu reset then drive as normal.

 

[Tom16]

Cheers, thanks mate, I was going to do the fuel pump/ecu reset anyway just to see if it made a difference to fuel economy.

 

[happy john]

It won't hurt, give the maf sensor a clean as well.

 

[Tom16]

Will do, thanks mate

 

[bods]

Re the re-learn, Nissan suggest doing that after a filter change as the ecu sees a partly blocked or dirty filter as a need to push the fuel harder. All they do is a ecu reset then drive as normal.

Cheers, thanks mate, I was going to do the fuel pump/ecu reset anyway just to see if it made a difference to fuel economy.

The other thing, especially in the common rail motors is the rail pressure. When the filter gets dirty the pump pushes harder and you can get thrown into limp mode for high fuel rail pressure if you don't reset it before driving. I can't say I've had it happen to mine, but I normally change my fuel filter at around 20k km, so it shouldn't be too dirty

 

[Tom16]

Yeah, this is the 40k service and the first one I'm doing myself, so it will probably be a bit dirty...

 

[Tom16]

Just went to repco and got the fully synthetic 5W30, they have 30% off all penrite stuff this weekend so must be a sign... got 10lt for $95 instead of the usual $135!

 

[Blazerbear]

2003 zd30 Diesel . 390 000 km . Used Magnatec up untill last service. Just switched to Penrite HPR 15 . Am using it as well in my sportsbike . Buy in 20 litre drum when on special as it works out heaps cheaper . Was doing 10 000km service intervals but now 5 to 7 000 km intervals due to age of engine . No problems so far

 

[LJG]

2107 D23 ST.
EDGE 5W-30 LL with genuine filters.
I do mine every 10K, despite the book saying 20K which I reckon is too much.
I use Castrol exclusively at work and we have trucks well in excess of 800,000klm and they still return normal oil samples.

 

[user 10312]

Best bet after the new filter and reset is let it idle for 15 minutes. Often you will hear it hunt at idle but it settles down. Then take it on a gentle drive. Should be all good after that. Like bods I change the filter every 10,000K at least. Been changing oil, (full synthetic) oil filter, and fuel filter every 7,500 k and it runs as sweet as.

 

[manV]

2004 D22 STR ZD30, using what ever is on sale/cheapest when I buy for servicing, BUT, i add and swear by the Lucas oil additive and when it comes round to my 10000 km service, I STILL have clean oil, no soot is left on my hands after handling the oil ! I Also use the Lucas fuel additive (as it is for diesel or petrol) every so often to keep my injectors clean.....about to tick over 300000kms and still no oil burning or overfueling injectors.... all servicing and modificatons/repairs are carried out by myself, YES I am a diesel fitter !

 

[Infernal]

https://rego2oil.castrol.com/en_au/australia/

 

[[email protected]]

valvoline

petrol heads read this and you decide

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil Tests.pdf

this is an oil test on 18 different blends done by street commodores magazine, I think all will be amazed with the results, look at the cost p/L and the wear..

IS IT POSSIBLE TO POST THE RESULTS AS THAT WEB SITE IS NOW UNABAILABLE

 

[[email protected]]

I have been using Castrol Magnatec Diesel .The same as my local nissan dealer.
I change oil and filter every 5000km or 3months. What ever comes first.
2005 STR

I THINK USEING SAME OIL IS IMPORTANT, ON 2 OF MY PETROL ENGINE I STARTED DOING MY OWN SERVICE AFTER WARRANTY RAN OUT DIDNT BOTHER TO CHECK WHAT OIL THEY WERE USING. AND I IMMEDIATELY NOTICED OIL CONSUMPTION , I STARTED DOING CHANGES EARLIER

 

[pol327]

The oil dilemma.
I am a diesel mechanic with more than a few years experience. There is a lot of information regarding oils and some of the amazing claims that oil companies and there marketing people make and also some remarkable stories from individuals.

Years of oils analysis has shown me that after 250 hours of continuous use oil has reached its saturation point from blow-by deposits. This is generally from a machine that runs 24/7 and at optimum operating temperature for 95% of the time. This does not mean that it will not lubricate it simply means that the oils capability of retaining these harmful deposits is diminished and then premature engine wear can begin.
Machines that are used less often for shorter periods saturate quicker, this is the same as automotive vehicles started and stopped multiple times a day and do less running at optimum operating temperature.

Possibly the most important aspect of the oil used in a given vehicle is that the oil used meets the manufacturers lubrication specifications. This can be found in the vehicles hand book. API specification for high speed diesel engines CK-4 (2010 on wards), current model vehicles is CJ-4 and then the oil viscosity given the vehicles out side environmental temperature operating range.
From there the service intervals that oil and oil filter is replaced. This should be every 5000 km to 7500 km maximum. I replace the oil and oil filter in my D40 every 5000 kms.
As far as the oil brand is concerned I would say a good quality brand that meets the vehicles manufactures specification. My preference is Shell Rimula. As for oil additives I am not a fan of them nor do I use them, oil companies spend millions of dollars researching that their product will do its job properly so I leave it to that. However each to his own if he believes it is of benefit.

 

[Horatius]

2004 D22 STR ZD30, using what ever is on sale/cheapest when I buy for servicing, BUT, i add and swear by the Lucas oil additive and when it comes round to my 10000 km service, I STILL have clean oil, no soot is left on my hands after handling the oil ! I Also use the Lucas fuel additive (as it is for diesel or petrol) every so often to keep my injectors clean.....about to tick over 300000kms and still no oil burning or overfueling injectors.... all servicing and modificatons/repairs are carried out by myself, YES I am a diesel fitter !

I don't think the oil staying clean for 10k kms is necessarily a good thing. That means it isn't doing it's job (or one of its jobs) doesn't it?

I know lots of people also swear by fuel additives and if you feel it helps, then why not. My last three vehicles (all 4cyl, one petrol and two diesels) clocked up 650k, 410k and 500k kms respectively on original injectors with no fuel additives or flushes. Injectors were still running fine when I stopped using them. Though I did end up rebuilding the motor on the first one, but then I just threw the original injectors back in as they were, no cleaning, no nothing. At that mileage still ran fine.

 

[pol327]

Each to their own when it comes to maintenance and additives.

Just because the injectors where working does not mean that they are working correctly or efficiency, that is, either having a proper spray pattern or seating correctly and not dribbling. To fit old injectors with that many kilometres on them straight into a new engine without at least checking them is something I would not ever do, nor would I advise that any person ever do that.
The injectors are the single most important part for the efficient operation of diesel engines, for performance, economy and emissions.

Unless injectors are physically tested and the spray pattern observed then there is no way anyone can be sure that they are functioning properly and as intended by the manufacturer.

 

[Horatius]

Each to their own when it comes to maintenance and additives.

Just because the injectors where working does not mean that they are working correctly or efficiency, that is, either having a proper spray pattern or seating correctly and not dribbling. To fit old injectors with that many kilometres on them straight into a new engine without at least checking them is something I would not ever do, nor would I advise that any person ever do that.
The injectors are the single most important part for the efficient operation of diesel engines, for performance, economy and emissions.

Unless injectors are physically tested and the spray pattern observed then there is no way anyone can be sure that they are functioning properly and as intended by the manufacturer.

In fairness, never said I wasn't rough lol.

The car drove fine, same as it always did, same mileage as it always got. It didn't really cost that much for a quick machining and supplied cheapy pistons/rings and bearings. For an old car like that it was getting minimal money spent on it to keep it going for a couple more years that I needed (I rebuilt it well before the 650k kms that I ended up driving it for).

In that situation it would been a waste of money getting the injectors done up, or new injectors IMO. Spray patterns and all that sounds great but in that situation I'm going with "if it ain't broke don't fix it".

My point was that I feel additives are like taking something for a cold (again only IMO). As they say it takes 7 days to get over a cold, unless you go to the doctors and get some medication, then it takes a week lol.

 

[[email protected]]

about 30 years ago i remember there was an external by pass filter that i believe some trucks used to keep the oil clean, it used to take what looked like a sorbent roll. the sheets not having perforated holes, has any one used this set up.

 

[[email protected]]

AMSOIL: Diesel Bypass Filter Solution
check above on youtube this is more expensive than catch can , will it work better