Water/ Methanol Injection + boost setting

Nissan Navara Forum

Help Support Nissan Navara Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
i would not bother with the variable system.
either boost switch or full throttle switch.
trouble with diesels is your on boost a lot which means you drink the water/meth fast, especially with a variable controller. boost switch is ok with wastegate turbo as your not full boost at low throttle, but it still uses a large amount even with it set at max boost.
i have boost switch plus manual off switch so i can turn it off to save the spray for the big hills.
this is where a throttle switch is handy, you don't get spray until you hit full throttle.

fit a solenoid instead of the check valve and fit the largest possible tank you can.
i have this tank 2.25 Gallon Sumped Tank and its not big enough.
Where did you mount your injector? .
 
Yup it's a allll sooo confusing for me let me tell you, but I'm onto the small print ;) I'll speak with the manufactures before I commit...
Yeah I twaz thinking just a single injector/spray after the turbo, keep it simplze eh

Yes, the tank! I was thunking under the tray,, 20lt?? More you think?.

It's the fill port that's the killer, where? Near the diesel fill neck I guess, but what, another filler neck and cap off a wreck.... lot's to look into my man but I'm keen af to give it a go.. I love playing with this thing! It's like Meccano for those that only got Lego to play with as a kid ;)



I think I'm onto the right one to look for, I think!
For ...1 diesel 2 turbo 3 single spray 4 solenoid 5 pump, jet etc warning of some sort .... I'm guessing that with the single spray ones there's no dash mounts of any type, it's all under bonet ??. Yes?
something like 10 litres, bigger tank is better but usage does depend on where and how you drive.

only dash mounted stuff i would have is on/off switch and warning light for tank float switch.
keep it basic, you can always expand it later. single nozzle with boost switch will work fine.

my nozzle (not in a nissan) i mounted on the cross over tube.
 
something like 10 litres, bigger tank is better but usage does depend on where and how you drive.

only dash mounted stuff i would have is on/off switch and warning light for tank float switch.
keep it basic, you can always expand it later. single nozzle with boost switch will work fine.

my nozzle (not in a nissan) i mounted on the cross over tube.
Ya, I was thinking 20lt or so, why, I'm thinking of going down the snow mpg-max one! If you're going to fit one and you can get one that helps with economy, why not go the extra cost.. in the end it's only 30 to 40% meth and the rest water... i won't know untill i speak with those at snow, those here dealing FOR them are not giving up much over the phone.....
I can't go bigger fuel tank so it's a win win for me, me thinks ;)

Its just finding a kit! It looks like a piece from here a piece from there, job to me, hopefully snow or devils own can put a kit together for me... we'll see eh
 
the pre turbo injection can help with economy. the after IC injection not so much.
to really help with fuel economy it needs to be injecting and the amount used goes way up.
what i found was it really helped the top end performance. it didn't help fuel economy but it helped you get up the hills quicker.

try to get everything at once to reduce the rather high shipping costs. so worth while getting a range of nozzles. ie 1gph or less for pre turbo, a 2/4/6 gph for the main.
 
the pre turbo injection can help with economy. the after IC injection not so much.
to really help with fuel economy it needs to be injecting and the amount used goes way up.
what i found was it really helped the top end performance. it didn't help fuel economy but it helped you get up the hills quicker.

try to get everything at once to reduce the rather high shipping costs. so worth while getting a range of nozzles. ie 1gph or less for pre turbo, a 2/4/6 gph for the main.
Cool, will do...

Found this to go up under the tray... expensive but there's not much else out there to fit up under a tray... they have bigger too ;)

https://prometh.com/collections/tan...4-gallon-frame-mount-tank?variant=43634384654
Looks the goods... pricey though! And that's with no fuel level sender fitted!
 
I'm set on the AEM PN 30-3300 kit over the others purely because of the boost map dial set up they have and the new v3 nozzles... better spray, less water used, better cooling misting nozzles that can be disassemble and cleaned...

I don't think you'd get much Change out of $1000 by the time it's fitted and that's not including the dyno/tune....

Isn't AfterPay great ;)
 
I'm set on the AEM PN 30-3300 kit over the others purely because of the boost map dial set up they have and the new v3 nozzles... better spray, less water used, better cooling misting nozzles that can be disassemble and cleaned...
don't waste your money on a controller. its pointless on a diesel. your not going to be injecting w/m at part boost. you will be up on full boost a lot as it is.
the controllers work well with petrol engines. the cheaper boost switch is a better option for diesels.

nozzles are important for pre turbo (as well as high pressure pumps), but not a big deal for nozzles on the intake.
the alcohol evaporates extremely well even if you just poured it in out of a cup. water only evaporates a small amount depending on your airs humidity and boost pressure. the rest of the water washes down the intake pipes. this is why certain intake pipes do not work well with W/M.
there is a few videos around with a clear intake manifold and you can see the water washing around the pipes. it also leaks out of any join thats not perfectly sealed.
the alcohol is what cools the intake charge down, the water is what cools everything inside the cylinder.

btw this also means that water does get blown past the rings.
my catch can was really really good, it condensed all the water, mixed with the oil in the can, and plugged it up causing sump to overpressure. ended up just venting it straight to air. no issue with the oil inside the engine, the water evaporates out pretty fast.
 
don't waste your money on a controller. its pointless on a diesel. your not going to be injecting w/m at part boost. you will be up on full boost a lot as it is.
the controllers work well with petrol engines. the cheaper boost switch is a better option for diesels.

nozzles are important for pre turbo (as well as high pressure pumps), but not a big deal for nozzles on the intake.
the alcohol evaporates extremely well even if you just poured it in out of a cup. water only evaporates a small amount depending on your airs humidity and boost pressure. the rest of the water washes down the intake pipes. this is why certain intake pipes do not work well with W/M.
there is a few videos around with a clear intake manifold and you can see the water washing around the pipes. it also leaks out of any join thats not perfectly sealed.
the alcohol is what cools the intake charge down, the water is what cools everything inside the cylinder.

btw this also means that water does get blown past the rings.
my catch can was really really good, it condensed all the water, mixed with the oil in the can, and plugged it up causing sump to overpressure. ended up just venting it straight to air. no issue with the oil inside the engine, the water evaporates out pretty fast.
Ahhhhh good points! Danm good points... I'll be watching those can on mine then... cheers.

I was looking for economy along with temp cooling and power..

Soooo, that's why I was thinking 2 snozzles, controller, 1 very very VERY fine pre turbo snozzle, 2nd snozzle post I.C..

Have you checked out the new V3 snozzles from AEM, very impressive indeed, well worth a look. It looks at the misting problem and works well I think...

Banks Diesel has the best controllers but I don't have enough kidneys to sell... mannnnnn you should see the Banks 6cyl racing truck, my god! I think its blown AND turboed... You should see the work that's gone into that motor.....
 
I was looking for economy along with temp cooling and power..
if your going to do a pre turbo then i would get a 2nd pressure switch.
you don't really want the controller on a pre turbo (as it reduces pump speed which reduces pressure). you want max pressure all the time to give the best spray pattern.
 
if your going to do a pre turbo then i would get a 2nd pressure switch.
you don't really want the controller on a pre turbo (as it reduces pump speed which reduces pressure). you want max pressure all the time to give the best spray pattern.
2nd pressure switch? Does that run off the boost also? So two boost switches? One set up for say 5psi and another at sayyyy 12psi...

These are the snozzles I want to use....
 
2nd pressure switch? Does that run off the boost also? So two boost switches? One set up for say 5psi and another at sayyyy 12psi...
the nozzles look good.

so yes. both switches are boost switches. set the pre turbo to say 5 psi. the main nozzle set to 15psi.
i say 15 psi because you want to set it at max boost (or very close to it). if you set it low you will chew through huge amounts of water/meth for little gain. diesels of course get onto max boost a lot in normal use anyway.

fit solenoids to each nozzle so you can turn each one off. ie if you just want eco you can run pre turbo only.
 
the nozzles look good.

so yes. both switches are boost switches. set the pre turbo to say 5 psi. the main nozzle set to 15psi.
i say 15 psi because you want to set it at max boost (or very close to it). if you set it low you will chew through huge amounts of water/meth for little gain. diesels of course get onto max boost a lot in normal use anyway.

fit solenoids to each nozzle so you can turn each one off. ie if you just want eco you can run pre turbo only.
Learning every day my man... good shite!

The boost switch way should be cheaper too huh... I like that idea of that set up!

How would you run/angle the pre turbo nozzle? East west to the pipe or enter the pipe and have it facing the compressor wheel?
Be tricky setting up to face the c.wheel eh you'd wanna make good mount for it....hmmm thinking thinking thinking.... it would have to be a solid pipe into the nozzle from the outside, depends if i can get a soild alloy pipe size to fit and feed the nozzel and can be supported by tig welding into the alloy induction pipe to the turbo...

I won't move on this untill I run it past you guys...

Well I have one part sorted lol the snozzles! Oh, two actually, I like that tank set up... It's a "bit by bit" purchase for me anyway, I think I can safely purchase that tank to start off with,, can't go wrong there eh ;) that will fit perfectly under the tray.
So it's basically lines, pump and boost control switches now... cool! Have you seen the prices on pumps! Frig me!

Ok, boost switches! Let the reading begin;)

And thanks for your input and help over the years to bloke, i must owe you a fine bottle of spirit by now.. What's your poison?
 
After reading all of this post, I’m wondering why u don’t just go for a hydrogen generation unit set up. Economy and power is there. They work. A mate has one on his semi trailer. It’s the future of any compression (diesel) motor anyway. Just a thought.
 
After reading all of this post, I’m wondering why u don’t just go for a hydrogen generation unit set up. Economy and power is there. They work. A mate has one on his semi trailer. It’s the future of any compression (diesel) motor anyway. Just a thought.

Well I looked that up quickly and it deserves a bit more research overnight. The HHO system I looked at for $300 US looks like a decent investment. Not sure about the pro tuner module for the zd30, not sure if it runs through OBD2. Again more research required 🤔
 
Last edited:
The boost switch way should be cheaper too huh... I like that idea of that set up!
yes a lot cheaper and far more reliable.

How would you run/angle the pre turbo nozzle? East west to the pipe or enter the pipe and have it facing the compressor wheel?
Be tricky setting up to face the c.wheel eh you'd wanna make good mount for it....hmmm thinking thinking thinking.... it would have to be a solid pipe into the nozzle from the outside, depends if i can get a soild alloy pipe size to fit and feed the nozzel and can be supported by tig welding into the alloy induction pipe to the turbo...
two methods.
either just in the sidewall of the intake pipe as per usual,
or make a special mount that puts it right in front of the turbo compressor nut, facing the nut. the idea behind that is its the safest as the water hits the nut instead of the vanes.
the normal way works fine for small amounts (small nozzle) as long as nozzle is kept clean (don't use dirty water).

How's that motor in that truck! The sound mm mm mmm
did you watch the duramax build series? now thats sweet as.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top