Upgrade Path

[WillGreen]

Hello, I plan to upgrade my 2010 D40 ST. We will be carrying a bit of camping gear and roof top tent (or canopy top). I think the following is the plan:

1. Ultimate suspension 2" Raised height comfort to GVM
2. bigger lyres - still looking at which ones
3. Snorkel
4. Opposite Lock Long range fuel tank
5. Warn Winch on a factory bull bar (which is already installed)
6. Spot lights - already have these but a mission to get wiring through the fire wall
7. UHF Radio - probably one of the hidden head units.
8. ARB Diff lockers with required air compressor.
9. Roo Chip
10. 3" exhaust.

Plan on doing the first 7 pretty much now then see how we go if we "need" the last three. Does this seem like a reasonable path. Anything else to make a solid offroader/touring/Family ute?

 

[hosery]

Welcome. Good list of mods there mate. Should be a nice ute once you get that all done. I don't no a whole lot on the d40s but 1 of the 1st things I'd be looking at also is a duel battery system of some form to run lights fridges etc etc off.

 

[WillGreen]

Thanks. Yeah - was thinking of installing the second battery in the camping canopy - not sure of how to wire in yet. Not much room under the bonnet. By lights you mean camping lights not spotlights?

 

[Old.Tony]

Without a locker you'll still do reasonably well off-road as long as you don't live by the mantra "Plant it! Plant it!" which will see you towed home with a broken diff, axle or CV (and a locker will largely prevent that).

Dual battery system is almost a must. Not hard to do - your choice of charging method will play a role here - both in determining cost and in the battery's longevity.

Of the three common systems, all require a fuse at the main battery, then run a nice heavy pair of cables to the rear. At the rear, you can do one of three things:

1) Use an isolator and let alternator charge the battery directly. It is the cheapest alternative but won't fully charge the aux battery. It won't cope with voltage fluctuations well - they will directly affect the charge rate.

2) Use a DC-DC charger. Highly recommended is the C-Tek D250S because it also allows solar input (and regulates this for you, you don't have to buy extra gear). Your battery will fully charge and the voltages are all safe. Voltage fluctuations are managed nicely.

3) Use an inverter to produce 240V, which supplies mains power to both the fridge (so the fridge automatically disconnects from 12V) and to a decent mains-charger which will properly (and perfectly) charge the battery. This provides maximum battery life, maximum battery capacity and handles voltage fluctuations well. The caveat is that it produces lethal voltages - you have to be as careful in your tub as you are at home.

I think you're on a good path. Suspension certainly should be first, having now changed my suspension, I wonder why I didn't organise it as I drove out of the dealership. I'm back on standard sized tyres and went off-roading in the Barringtons - we touched the ground a couple of times in the rough stuff but nothing serious.

The GME TX3540 radio is a good unit. Couple it with the mid-range antenna to make the best of both worlds. Hi dB-gain antennae are less effective in hilly regions, and low dB-gain are obviously less effective over large distances.

 

[WillGreen]

Hi,
Thanks for the advice.
Option 2 looks the goods for battery set up - so the second battery actually sits in the tub? Would you be able to put a conection in the set up to allow removal when on gardening duties and the like.
We've always had GME in my families boats and they have been reliable so def long at them.
Already looking forward to suspension - makes them look a little more meaty too.
Cheers
Will.

 

[Old.Tony]

Lot of D40s with aux batteries in the tub, given the lack of room up front. Some put a cradle under the tub but I wouldn't put the charger there particularly if you take her swimming - the battery would survive no worries, but not the charger. Under-tub becomes problematic with LR tanks.