Unkn0wn's QD D22

[unkn0wn]

Part three.

I chose to mount the heat exchanger off the bonnent brace.

Given the direction of the pipes, the drives side was most suitable.
I removed the stock thermo fan, and mounted one directly to the ac condenser on the other side.

Had to make mount for the other side of the radiator, this was easy enough using the old fans brackets.

The pump fit snugly on an exsisting mount also.

The grill had to be trimmed to fit the radiator....
Im going to put some mesh behind it...later on.
May also look at a simline fan for behind the heat exchanger...but for the moment I did not have one that fit.

Testing showed a nice drop in EGTs so I upped the boost from 8psi to 16, tweaked the fuel and its running better than it ever has.

Quite happy with it now.

 

[dilmah]

The size of the radiator is the limiting factor in how much heat you can expel out of the system. I've moved my W2A radiator the to back of the car and swapped it out for an Ally rad off a TD42. The thing is massive! 900mm wide and 520mm high, 60mm thick 38mm inlet and outlets. I also bought a 115L/min pump from some mob in SA. The bosch pump only moves 25L/min. If you can run some auberins temp gauges pre intake and post turbo you will see how effective the W2A is at dropping temps.

I use to get ambient +10 around town and ambient +25 doing 110 on the highway. You wont see those sort of temps with and A2A. With my new setup I'm hoping to see almost ambient intake temps. I like how you have done the piping, very little bends and its simple. Water pump is in a good spot as well. Just gotta look after it if you take it through any water being so low.

 

[unkn0wn]

The size of the radiator is the limiting factor in how much heat you can expel out of the system. I've moved my W2A radiator the to back of the car and swapped it out for an Ally rad off a TD42. The thing is massive! 900mm wide and 520mm high, 60mm thick 38mm inlet and outlets. I also bought a 115L/min pump from some mob in SA. The bosch pump only moves 25L/min. If you can run some auberins temp gauges pre intake and post turbo you will see how effective the W2A is at dropping temps.

I use to get ambient +10 around town and ambient +25 doing 110 on the highway. You wont see those sort of temps with and A2A. With my new setup I'm hoping to see almost ambient intake temps. I like how you have done the piping, very little bends and its simple. Water pump is in a good spot as well. Just gotta look after it if you take it through any water being so low.

I have a couple of spare alloy radiators from other ongoing projects, the thought did cross my mind to use one but i wanted to keep things simple and at least trail the provided PWR stuff.

I have not completely settled on a gauge i like, most of the cheaper chinese ones seem to max out at 100deg c, so they are useless (at least for turbo side).

with regards to the auberins type - the one I'm properly going to end up with is this :

http://thesensorconnection.com/egt-...nd-digital-egt-or-cht-pyrometer-gauge-display

once i know the efficiency of the core's cooling ill look into upgrading radiator / pump if required...i was surprised how little flow the pump does...just watching it on the filler cap and it looked like the water was barely moving.

with your setup how to you trigger the pump? i have mine on a switch atm, but im looking to move it over to a oil pressure sensor - so its only on when the engines on.

 

[dilmah]

On a switch which turns the pump and both the 12" thermos on the Radiator on. I did it this way so I could shut everything down if I was doing a water crossing to save blowing fuses. I use a 20A fuse and a 30A relay to trigger the circuit. The pump draws 4A and both the fans draw 7A.

Biggest thing is space at the front. I remember having the radiator, winch and 2x spotties on the bulbar. Room got real tight real quick

 

[unkn0wn]

QD32 zd exhaust install

In addition to installing the W2A intercooler last weekend, i also installed an Xforce exhaust.

The nav had a exhaust I made on it, that ended up being a 2.5inch straight thro system...this was fine at the time, but now i'm looking for something a bit quieter.

The Xforce system is one of the cheapest options.

The exhaust is a full exhaust for the ZD30det navara, no cat (qds don't have a cat factory anyway....) but has a large straight thru muffler at the rear that takes away nearly all the exhaust noise.

ive seen a few posts where people have asked if other nav systems will fit the QD, as there is not much listed in the way of QD exhausts.

so heres my install notes

ZD Xforce > QD32 with a td27t turbo setup.

- ZD and td27t turbos share same outlet design
* dump pipe fits fine.

- all the mounts are in the same spot and basically everything lines up fine.

- the turbo sits further toward the rear of the car in my setup than on a ZD..It also sits a very small amount lower.
* i modified the pipe with the flexi joiner, cutting a small amount of length each way out of it....verry small modifications.
after this everything fit, as per factory.

whats in the box

working in the carport, as it was ducking cold outside and rainning

the installed exhaust / tip position....I personally dont like it, i might cut out the SS section and just tip it 45 deg down....we will see.

overall quite easy to modify, but you will need to cut and weld in two points...so if you cant do that maybe get an exhaust shop to do it, would be really easy for them.

 

[Bearindabush]

Love ya work mate

 

[Chris_in_Ravenswood]

N-i-c-e...

Great work, my friend.....
Looking real sharp.

 

[unkn0wn]

Cheers Guys,

Been a while since any update, but it been smooth sailing.

Picked up a secondhand ARB rear step/towbar for a good price.
It sits a bit further out than the standard reece hitch did, but it fills the void of the long tray i have, making it look proportional.
could be my imagination, but it seemed to tow better to.

Next on the list to do this week - change the alternator.
On the way home from our last big trip, about 30 seconds before we pulled into the driveway - got all the dash lights on and a rubber burning smell from the engine.

Turns out my inadequate cleaning of the engine bay must have let to much mud into the alternator and she seized up solid.

so stay tuned!

 

[Chris_in_Ravenswood]

It's amazing what I have learned...

Lurking on Navara Asia pages and talking to Navara Asia users...

Keep doing what you are doing - Every time you do something to your truck, I ***MAGICALLY*** get an idea to do something to my truck...

 

[Anderss]

Awesome build mate! Really love what you've done with the old girl! I'm a young bloke who is in the process modifying my QD32 Navara Single Cab and this is really going to help me I think
Love the work!
Cheers, Anders

 

[Mahakipawa]

Hi.
I know this is an old thread but on the off chance you still look here occasionally....

Top work. Good write up. The qd32 is a great old motor.

I do have a couple of questions Please, advice from someone who has actually been there and done it.

The break rotors.

I was told the ones off a zd30 d22 wouldn't fit on my qd32 one. Something about ball joint tapers being different? And the calipers won't fit either?. You have obviously done it so the wreckers down here in Albany must be mistaken. How hard of a job was it? The bigger break booster and master cylinder from the zd30 bolt straight on and improved the breaking noticeably . Do you know if the rear drums are any different?

Injector pump tuning.

Iv just done the turbo conversation from a Terrano. Put a 2.5 inch exhaust on as well. Haven't touched the injector pump yet. Do you know how much your timing was changed? Advanced or retarded? I'll do the fuel inrichment using the egt gauge as a guide but I can't find anything solid on timing for a turbo qd32.
I was considering just ripping the pump and injectors off the td27t and putting it on . But The listed timing for the two engines is quite different. Any advice from anyone who has actually done this would be greatly appreciated

Cheers

 

[unkn0wn]

Hi Mate,

Ive been out of the navara game for a while as the D22 sits in my shed as an ornament waiting for love.

I bought a Terrano R20 so i could continue living the TD27/QD engine life & it fits better as the mrz uses it to walk the dog on the beach.

I dont know anything about the ball joint differences.

The ZD30 rotors are bigger and when you put them on the QD the brake caliper mount is incorrectly spaced.
the caliper sits a bit further out and actually instead of having a lip inside the rotorfor the pad to wear into, the pad sits just juts just outside the rotor. were talking about ~5mm difference i guess.
it will work, just not "stock".
I have been meaning to change over to the zd spindles to have the correct mount. but its just been on the "to do list".

TBH i played with the pump by ear and feel, made a couple of small adjustments, marked each one, then went back to the one that felt the best on the "seat dyno".

when i took it to be tuned i asked the to reset the pump timing and do it properly. well they reset it it (apparently way out of aliment) and the car wouldn't run - so the timing marks must be out.
anyway they ended up putting it back to my markings and it made the most power on the dyno - so i was pretty happy with that.

im no expert but i did a bit of reading that TDs respond well to a few degrees timing, thats not really alot to move the pump by - and its a PITA to undo all the bolts required to move the timing, its was a full weekend process for me - change - drive - change - drive- beer- beer - beer - sleep - change -drive - change - beer - beer etc etc.

anyway, its prob to late to be usefull

 

[Mahakipawa]

Hay mate. Thanks for the reply. I'm still driving around in the old girl. Use it every day for work. Was doing 1500km a week for 8 months until feb. It has 476000 km on the clock now.
Iv put the td27t injector pump on after putting a seal kit in it , and got some recon injectors from denco diesel . Their "pump room" recommended the qd32 injectors and pump timing. Can't remember off the top of my head what the break pressure was set to on the injectors but the factory timing was .47 @ tdc. Iv set it to that for now but it needs tweaking. Like you say it's a pain to adjust and I just haven't had a spare day or two to play with it yet. It just has to have different timing requirements with the turbo on.?
For anyone interested the td27t pump on my particular qd32 motor has enough adjustment to supply enough fuel to probably melt it at 10psi boost. I'm running 10psi at the moment as the egt seams to run cooler there.
I think 10psi is to much for such an old motor ?? Any thoughts??
Iv given up on better breaking. Got a set of led spotlights from 4WD supacenter so I can see the Roos from further back. Lol. The larger booster and master cylinder from a zd30 d22 make it stop a little better anyways.

Cheers
Grant

 

[unkn0wn]

Hi Mate

you should be able to adjust the before boost / on boost curve with the pump to give you the desired fuel / EGT.

The boost level really depends on the EGT. if you have a decent intercooler on the truck id go t town.
My d22 was running 18 Psi through the PWR W2A & stock td27 turbo and qd pump.
My 21 ran various configs,
td27t stock i let it go to about 10psi without intercooler, with a front mount it was about 16psi.
after the turbo blew i put on a gt25 from a silvia, way over sized and i ran that about the same 15psi.
the guy who bought it after me had some actuator trouble and it was running like 25psi for a few months just fine...it had a large over sized intercooler so the egts were allways perfect.

 

[Boriskov]

You found the TD27t pump enough?

I've just fitted mine, and it's completely smoke-free with the idle screw off the stops. I'm still running a 10mm though.

I also was only able to get decent pump timing by advancing 1 tooth. I'm using the QD32 timing gear though. Did you use the TD27 one?

16psi with TD27 top mount intercooler.

 

[Mahakipawa]

Hi Boriskov.
Yip on my qd32 motor the td27t pump was heaps.
I just assumed the timing gear was the same. Side by side the one on the td27t pump and the qd32 pump were identical so I just lined up the marks then adjusted the pump to .47.
I had to wind the fuel screw in a bit to get it to start. I had the pump totally to bits and put a new seal kit in it so it might not have been exactly as it was in the td27t. In theory the idle screw should stay where it was and adjust the mixture screw until it idles at 750rpm smoke free???
I suspect I may have put the throttle arm back on one spline out on mine.
I did adjust the boost inrichment pin to give it more fuel but egt temps went straight to 500 without much load so I moved it back . There is a stopper under the diaphragm that you could remove to if you need more full boost fuel .
Twist the pin to max fuel, take out stopper , wind the tension off the diaphragm return spring and wind the fuel screw right in and you should be able to melt the old girl into a pile of molten scrap.
https://www.tillix.com.au/mechanical-diesel-engine-tuning/ Take a look at this webpage, I found it very helpful for tuning.

UnknOwn, what kind of egt are you comfortable running on your motors?
The mechanic at work says 350c but my truck mechanic mate says 450 and that truck motors start melting at 550 ish.

Cheers
Grant

 

[bods]

Just to add to the above, the old rule of thumb used to be 550c post turbo with trucks. The Kenworth I used to drive with a C15 cat in it, the pyro gauge was green until 550c then a small yellow section before going red...

Here you go... Hopefully that works...

 

[Mahakipawa]

Sory I think he said trucks run up to 550 and start melting at 650 , after the turbo. I'm doubting my memory of the conversation now. Dose that sound correct?

 

[bods]

Yeah that's about where the red starts lol. New technology is a bit better, the newer diesels, especially smaller ones, run up around 700 pre turbo from the factory... In 4wds that is. Most trucks haven't even got pyro gauges anymore...

The older stuff though, I wouldn't push any higher than 550. My yd25 D22 I try not to go above 550 post turbo. I have the probe mounted in the dump pipe about 50mm from the turbo outlet. It does get up there, especially on decent hills. I'd hate to see what it would be pre turbo...

 

[melts]

unkn0wn sent me here, I ended up buying his D22 so now the legend lives on. somewhat. I don't know half what he does

but I have learnt one thing, the part number for the throttle cable for the QD D22 is 18201-2S700
if yours is frayed buy one now cheaper online rather than get slugged the Nissan tax on it. Couldn't find anyone local that even had the part in their system.

also the EGT in the D22 rarely sees over 450, seems to sit around 100 idling and 400 doing 110km/h in 5th. Has been detuned to 12PSI though as the W2A isn't in there anymore. Will maybe one day get that sorted.

If anyone knows whats on the meter fused circuit that can short (well pull 60 amps) when the ute gets puddle jumping wet, I'd like to know. Lost the dash and alt for a day out 4wding after puddles. Confirmed fuse blew, and tested load with a clamp meter and saw 60 amps before I broke the circuit. Still trying to figure that out.