Turbo actuator

[longy509]

Hi i was just playing around under the hood and noticed that the turbo actuator is not moving while at idle if i pull the hose on top off it drops and then lifts back up when i replace hose, when a bit of throttle is given it bobs a bit then stops what could be causing this and what is the fix

Cheers,
Longy

 

[Black_Outlaw]

Your Boost Control Solenoid is F****D..

That's *exactly* what happened to mine.. Replace and enjoy proper boost again..

It's a common failure item (according to the Nissan Parts Guy).. Approx $130 for a new one.

 

[longy509]

Thanks mate il have a look around for one

 

[longy509]

I replaced the solenoid with no change then i noticed the hot pipe was split on the edge of the hose clamp i have replaced this with a forefront hot pipe the ute has stopped blowing smoke now but the actuator is still very random, i have been popping the bonnet and checking it a fair bit sometimes it is moving and sometimes its not what else could be causing the actuator to only move randomly,

Thanks

 

[Old.Tony]

There are five main things that affect the movement of the actuator arm, in order of common-ness:

1) Vac hoses - Cost about $20 to replace the whole lot from the vac pump on the intake side of the engine all the way to the turbo via the solenoid. If your hoses can turn on the connections, they've probably hardened. A small leak is enough.

2) Solenoid. You've replaced yours, it's included here because it's a common failure point.

3) Electrical connection to solenoid. Happens a fair bit to those that use pressure-washers in their engine bay. Undo and redo the connector a couple of times.

4) Brake booster. It's also vacuum controlled and a couple of people have reported this as an issue in the past. Both cases also experienced poor (more difficult) braking performance, so if your brakes are good, cross this one off the list

5) Actuator diaphragm. Bloody uncommon and in your case probably not it since the actuator is doing what it's supposed to do most of the time. It's included because it's part of the system.

I'd guess at 3, but wouldn't be surprised if the hose to the actuator had hardened a little and was leaking vacuum on you every now and again.

 

[longy509]

Thanks OT i will duck down to supercheap tomorrow and grab some vac hose

 

[tweak'e]

whats the boost doing?
if thats ok, is there a problem?

 

[longy509]

The boost seems alright most of the time i think its hard to say as i rekn i was driving around with that split hose since last november at least and i have just gotten used to it . The torque app is telling me it maxes out at about 18.5psi

 

[Old.Tony]

That's not too bad, to be honest. Mine rarely gets that high. Driving style makes a difference, of course!

Pushed hard up a hill you should see it peak at around 24psi or so.

 

[steel d40]

And don't forget the vac hoses at the vac pump under the oil filter There's a short length there that has a very hard life. If it bleeds vacuum- no boost.

 

[longy509]

Alright i replaced all 4 hoses with the 3mm blue vac line so ill keep an eye on it over the next few weeks and hopefully the non moving actuator is fixed.
Tony as you mentioned i did notice the hose on top of actuator turned quiet freely so that could of been the culprit

 

[kernels]

Just to confuse the situation even further, on my 2013 Thai ST model, I also don't see any movement of the actuator at idle. Car is driving perfectly, even better than new. Is it possible there has been a change to the software that makes it not oscillate ?

Happy to upload a video demonstrating if it would be of any help to anyone.

 

[longy509]

Mine is still random sometimes its moving sometimes it not im just going to leave it alone now the ute is running well and not blowing much smoke.

 

[Old.Tony]

It's possible that the 2013 ST has a different program. The turbo shouldn't really be doing a lot at idle anyway, it's not like you need boost to turn the engine over at 750rpm (unless the engine is a little bigger and sitting in the bowels of the Pacific Princess or something like that - although I suspect that those suckers are all NA).

It's just an observation looking under the bonnets of several D40s and seeing the actuator moving a little. Obviously the older ECU program that controls the turbocharger doesn't give a hoot that current_rpm = idle_rpm and throttle_position = 0.

Makes diagnosis of the later models a little more difficult - have to get a second person to jump in and squeeze the pedal!

 

[Iceman]

Looking at my d40 2010 ST the actuator bobs up and down as expected. However i am not convinced the turbo is quite right. Hauling ass it will get up to 19.5 psi ok but just seems a little 'off' i also suspect a boost leak as it make a hissing noise between 4 and 8 psi of boost.
I wanted to observe the turbo at higher revs but when reved with no load it only makes a couple pounds of boost. So how can i get it to boost without attempting a death defying bonnet surf?

 

[Old.Tony]

Go-Pro is your friend.

 

[Old.Tony]

Actually, further to that ... boost leaks are EASY to spot if you don't have a catch can fitted. Just go looking for the black oil!

 

[Iceman]

Well driving along today and boost just died. Max 2psi. In the middle of nowhere in the mountains. Checked everything and came to conclusion it was boost control solinoid. Eventually got it to a nissan stealership and $650 later was informed it was the solinoid... Hang on didnt i just tell them thats what it was...?
At least they took one out of a new truck on the lot to get me going.
Yes tony i have been looking at go pro and think i might start saving up.

 

[longy509]

I dont know what the NZ $ is compared to AU but nissan spare parts sold me the soleniod for $150 so they just stung you 500 bucks to plug 3 hoses and 1 electrical conection in the rude bastards

 

[Jased22]

That's nissan for ya