torsion bars stuck

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WJ22

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Hi Guys

Anyone with any advice on removing stuck torsion bars, Ive got the rear bolts completely removed then removed the metal circlip. When I try to pull back the bars to release the front they just wont to budge.

I backed off the 3 bolts at the control arm side but they just don't want to move. I Think the Problem I have is that i'm on my back under the ute on axle stands and don't have much room to work, so to pull on them is hard to get much on them.

I noticed there were no dust boots on them either so I don't know if they are full of sand and dirt. Ive given them a good soak in WD40 and was going for another attempt tomorrow. I tried giving them light taps with a hammer too but no luck.

Any one got any tips in removing these stubborn Ba#####s?

Any info would be much appreciated

Cheers
 
Hi, normally you have to jack the front of the vehicle up so the wheels hang down and then slide the torsion bars back. If you don't then they still have tension on them. Might need a bit of a tap as well.

Cheers
 
Sorry but I was assuming you have also removed the cross member if not you will have to support the gearbox and then drop the cross member as well

Cheers
 
yea mate front is up off the ground on stands, Wheels hanging and rear anchor bolts completely removed so there should be no tension on the bars, I just cant get them to pop out the front, Been soaking over night now in WD, another attempt but they are just stuck in, Cant get a proper pull on them whilst on my back under the ute, they just seem solid. Been tapping away lightly with a small hammer but no luck so far!!

Think my arms will fall off before they give!!

Cheers
 
For memory, on the control arm theres a collar type part with 3 nuts on it, 2 small 1 big (24mm i think) once u undo them slide the collar back on the torsion bar and swing the torsion bar down and pull out.

Sent from my SM-G360G using Tapatalk
 
yea Ben I got them bolts out, one was 22mm and 2x14mm, the collar part is also stuck and wont budge, had a good go at it with a hammer and nothing seems to want to move.

Ute has only done 75000k's so everything underneath is clean, no rust or anything. The only thing I noticed with them 3 bolts was there seemed to be some Red Lock tight type stuff on them and they took some effort to crack. I don't know if that was on it from factory or the bars have been played with by previous owner. I have only undone them bolts on the driver side so far so I don't know if that stuff is on the other side as well but to be honest the bolts seem new and untouched.

Ute had Steel bar on the front when I bought it so I don't know how long its been on but the front suspension had sagged drastically, I'm just worried that the receiver and the splines are done.

Don't know what else to try, Its had a serious soak now for 2 days with WD...my last hope was to buy a gas blow torch tomorrow and try some serious heat on it, other than that i'm stumped to be honest.

Might have to reassemble and take it in somewhere.

Every video clip I've seen on torsion bars they seem to fall out of the car!!

Trust my luck really.

Cheers mate
 
Hi I just read the last post from ben85 and checked your original post. When you say you backed off the three nuts on the retainer flang I have assumed you meant completely removed the flang. If you didn't then it won't budge. I might be right of track but it's worth mentioning.
It should come of relatively easily though

Good luck
 
yea cheers mate, finally got them done, they were a job to get out, had to hammer out the cover off them after releasing the 3 nuts.... all sorted now though thank god

cheers mate
 
So I learnt the hard way here, How not to adjust you'r new bars to the nissan spec.

Aftet adjusting the anchor arms to the nissan spec, ( Think it was something like 23-32mm of protrusion from the crosmember to the bottom of the bolt on the ankor arm before inserting the bar) then Tightening up to 70mm (from the lower bolt to the top of the bolt ) The car just sat on the bumpstops.

So had to re start, Eventualy i adjusted the anchor arms to full lenght (with the firts bolt flush with the top sitting on the crossmember) Then tightened them all up, That gave it enough grab to lift the front up with plenty of room to adjust more if needed. She now sits perfect with exactly 70mm of down travel on both sides at 740mm from lower rim to arch.

Next time I think ill just pay the guys down at the shop to do it as it was a Battle to say the least!!! They said they would have only charged me $100 to sort em out.. Forgot to mention that I completely rounded the 2 14mm nuts on the cover on my second attempt, so I had to either remove the Bottom arm or grind and drill out the bolts....I went for option B!! and nearly died in the process, My little cordless power drill also nearly kicked the bucket!! Anyway, Got new High tensile bolts from bunnings! Just got to keep an eye on these now as I had to put 3 washers on it as theres only about 5mm clearance at the back between the bottom arm and had to adjust to get them to fit.

Anyway was a Battle in the end due to me making a small job a huge one! Very happy with the new ride though its a 100% better than what she was. Hopefully some one will read this and not make the same mistakes I did ����
 
Last edited:
hey mate, good to see you got it all sorted out, after you have re adjusted them [i had to re do it 3 times over about 3 months] you want to make sure that your adjustment bolts sit up inside the cross member so that they don't get knocked off by a rock or log when you're out bush, it's a pain to do but worth it
cheers doug
 
Cheers mate,

yea eventually ill go back to adjust them so they are inside the crossmember but at this stage i'm well and truly over it!! just glad its all done and dusted with, Got the wheel alignment sorted and its all sitting nice now, I mainly only drive on the beach so It shouldn't be a big issue, but I know what you mean, it could take a hit with a rock or anything even on the beach..

What I did notice though that I had no dust covers on them, when I spoke with Nissan they had none in stock and they said that only the Jap made D22's came with them, Mine is Thai Built so apparently no dust boots on the torsion bars...(First I heard of that but that came from Nissan)

When I eventually pop them off again to adjust I think ill get some as I don't want them caked with Sand.

Cheers
 
I’m doing the torsion bars at the moment and yes they certainly don’t pop out like on all the videos. It also would have been nice if the videos told you about the circlips. :pissedoff:

I had a mechanic mate come around and have a quick look and he said plenty of fluid on them and grab then with vice grips and twist and knock and when you get them sorted bring it around to the workshop and we’ll check it on the hoist :love sign:

So I’ll give them another spay with wd40 and then again tomorrow arvo and hopefully straight out on the weekend.:chainsaw:
 
So I’ll give them another spay with wd40 and then again tomorrow arvo and hopefully straight out on the weekend.:chainsaw:

if it's the control arm end getting stuck you should be able to get a pry bar under the side of the bracket and it might need a few good knocks before you can pull it back.

I don't have any great suggestions for the other end. I actually had to cut mine out.. they were the originals which had been in there for 18 years, was replacing them with HD ones


Any time you take the bars out it's worth putting some grease on the splines
 
Thanks mate, thought about cutting them, then thought against it, I’ve got plenty of time it’s not my daily driver, I soaked them again tonight so we’ll see how we go tomorrow
 
Finally got the torsion bars out, the passenger side came out te easiest so to speak, as I was able to hammer the rear bracket and then used vice grips to hammer out of the socket.

The drivers one was a Pia the bracket was still up there no couldn’t hit it. Wouldn’t budge with vice grips, so angle grinder thru the middle and straight out.

I couldn’t get the spline all the way I at the front on both, so I’ll go and see the mechanic during the week and see what he says.
 

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