Hi, so having had my D40 in an local garage who told me to take it to an auto electricians, who then told me to take it to a diesel specialist it’s now come down to a new timing chain. Does anyone know a reliable garage that will swap out a chain in Yorkshire or Lancashire? Everyone I’ve tried has said it’s a pig of a job and they won’t do it. Found one in Bradford but the reviews are awful talking about taking a year and having a truck back with bits missing…. If anyone can point me in the direction of a decent place that would be appreciated.
Timing Chain Yorkshire
- Thread starter RWright
- Start date
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Keep us posted on it. Unfortunately I'm on the wrong side of the world to help with a good mechanic close to you (unless you are willing to ship it to Australia and freight the thing to central NSW!).
landmannnn
Member
Good call, as you probably know Bradford is the home of UK organised car crime, so you need to start well clear of that town.
Isn't that D40 specialist with all the youtube videos in Yorkshire? (his whole channel is 99% working on the D40)
West Yorkshire Engine Services
If that's close to you, he seems to know all there is to know about the Navara
https://www.youtube.com/@westyorkshireengineservice9160
West Yorkshire Engine Services
If that's close to you, he seems to know all there is to know about the Navara
https://www.youtube.com/@westyorkshireengineservice9160
Attachments
I looked into them for the work, all I found was warnings that they weren’t to be trusted, horror stories of taking a year to do the work and bits missing etc. I haven’t used them myself so have no experience, but when there is a group set up with 2000 members talking about the scams they pull then it’s not filling you with confidence!!! Just putting this up for peoples information.
landmannnn
Member
The bloke making the videos served prison time for defrauding customers. You just made him some more money by watching his videos.
You wouldn’t happen to know someone in the Brisbane area who replaces the timing chain for a reasonable price? My lad has purchased a 2009 D40 at an auction and a friend’s mechanic had a look at it as a favour. He said it is in really good condition but has a slow timing cover leak. He said that model Navara was notorious for the timing chain snapping and as the mechanic would already be in there to fix the oil leak, he may as well replace the timing chain. (Please excuse me if I haven’t explained it correctly, I’m just the lad’s Mum and know diddly squat about cars.)
No dramas at all, there are members here from all walks of life.
I don't know anyone in Brisbane, there used to be a place in Caboolture that worked on 'em.
Not all D40s had timing chain issues. My own are fine at 380,000km but I do very regular oil changes, and actually had the last one done 1600km into the service period because I had a warning about low oil - now this turned out to be a broken wire to a sensor, but just in case, I had them flush the engine and fit a new filter and put fresh oil in anyway.
There's a significant difference in cost between replacing a gasket and replacing the timing chains. I cannot argue that in some cars, the chains do have issues which may be related to the tensioners not keeping the chains taut. If money weren't a problem you'd just throw it at the car to make sure it was reliable (and then keep up the oil changes, which is vital).
Pulling the timing cover off will reveal whether there's an issue with the chains, sprockets and tensioners. I guess it's up to you: do you want to simply not have to worry at all = change the chains, or potentially save some cash and inspect first?
what about YD25 at Ipswich.
I didn't know Paul was up there! Yes, an excellent choice.
welshy1
Member
Hi Tony can you explain why the valves dance on top of the pistons on a fresh rebuild and how do I stop this I use a 2 notch head gasket ans till have some troubles is it me doing something wrong when rebuild them iget the timing spot on 6mm drilling the pump top dead centre ALL TIMING MARKS LINED UP SO WHAT AM I DOING WRONG LOVE TO KNOW PLEASE MATE
There's not a lot of variation in the gasket thickness, it starts at 0.9mm for 0 cutouts and in 0.025mm increments goes to 1.025mm for the gasket with 5 cutouts - what I'm trying to get to here is your gasket choice is probably NOT the cause of your woes.
Did you have the head machined at all?
If memory serves, the timing marks can line up with the crank exactly half a turn out - but hopefully someone else will come along and verify that before you go pulling it apart again.
welshy1
Member
Matethsnks for the reply but you have Mme on the crank k marks being 1turnout I get pistons on top dead centre line up the aa mRks on the crank gears and the harmonic ondesd centre on the mark I noticed it has 2 marks but not sure what the other is for love to sort this please mate S I am very fussy on lining allures up right up the the I jectir pump being cc ok so what am I doing wrong as I use a .75 head gasket as we hope some can helpless get this right please cheers
welshy1
Member
Maye I hope some one else reads this and set me straight on this problem as I mentioned I use a 2 notch gasket which is 0.075 mm so it should not be a problem with the valves dancing mate I might be pulling the head down to tight I go to 80 ft pound ok so I might go back to the correct tension being 40 nm back off then pull head forward then back to 40 nm then 2 x 90 degrees turn as per book ok
welshy1
Member
No Tony stock ok
It might not be the right gasket, depending on the work done. The manual describes a technique to measure the piston's protrusion in order to use the correct thickness gasket. The technique, copied from the manual (page 240):
a. Set piston at a point close to TDC.
b. Set the dial gauge at the location as shown in the figure. Turning
crankshaft gradually, set the gauge scale to “0” where the piston
protrusion is maximized.
c. Move the dial gauge stand so that the tip of dial gauge can contact
cylinder block. Read the difference.
d. Measure two points from each cylinder in order to obtain each
mean value of them. Choose a properly thick gasket corresponding
the highest number of the four values.
It then has a table for choosing the right gasket. I'll summarise this below (and check it to make sure I've not made a typo):
Protrusion in mm / gasket thickness / notches or cutouts
0.230-0.255 / 0.900 / 0
0.255-0.280 / 0.925 / 1
0.280-0.305 / 0.950 / 2
0.305-0.330 / 0.975 / 3
0.330-0.355 / 1.000 / 4
0.355-0.400 / 1.025 / 5
Cylinder head bolts should be tightened to 39.2Nm (29ftlb) in the order shown:
The process for new headbolts is to tighten all bolts to 39.2Nm in order, then add a further half turn (180 degrees) to each bolt (again, in order). Loosen each bolt in order, then re-tighten to 39.2Nm. Having done that, in order tighten each bolt another 90 degrees (one quarter turn) and then, in order again, tighten each bolt another 90 degrees. This completes the cylinder head bolt tightening task.
You now have to measure one more thing (I'll post this directly from the manual):
4. After installing cylinder head, measure dimension from the front end surface of cylinder block to that of cylinder head.
Standard : 23.53 - 24.07 mm (0.9264 - 0.9476 in)
* If out of the standard, check fitting of dowel pins and cylinder head.
You'll have at least some of that info already, but I thought it good to put it all in here in case someone else is reading it.
a. Set piston at a point close to TDC.
b. Set the dial gauge at the location as shown in the figure. Turning
crankshaft gradually, set the gauge scale to “0” where the piston
protrusion is maximized.
c. Move the dial gauge stand so that the tip of dial gauge can contact
cylinder block. Read the difference.
d. Measure two points from each cylinder in order to obtain each
mean value of them. Choose a properly thick gasket corresponding
the highest number of the four values.
It then has a table for choosing the right gasket. I'll summarise this below (and check it to make sure I've not made a typo):
Protrusion in mm / gasket thickness / notches or cutouts
0.230-0.255 / 0.900 / 0
0.255-0.280 / 0.925 / 1
0.280-0.305 / 0.950 / 2
0.305-0.330 / 0.975 / 3
0.330-0.355 / 1.000 / 4
0.355-0.400 / 1.025 / 5
Cylinder head bolts should be tightened to 39.2Nm (29ftlb) in the order shown:
The process for new headbolts is to tighten all bolts to 39.2Nm in order, then add a further half turn (180 degrees) to each bolt (again, in order). Loosen each bolt in order, then re-tighten to 39.2Nm. Having done that, in order tighten each bolt another 90 degrees (one quarter turn) and then, in order again, tighten each bolt another 90 degrees. This completes the cylinder head bolt tightening task.
You now have to measure one more thing (I'll post this directly from the manual):
4. After installing cylinder head, measure dimension from the front end surface of cylinder block to that of cylinder head.
Standard : 23.53 - 24.07 mm (0.9264 - 0.9476 in)
* If out of the standard, check fitting of dowel pins and cylinder head.
You'll have at least some of that info already, but I thought it good to put it all in here in case someone else is reading it.
