Time to change the clutch

[Aussie Frontier]

Just wondering who has changed their clutch or had it done for you.
What sort of time are we looking at?
Going to be putting in a new DMF ( $100 ) and a new Exedy HD kit ( $474 )
I am weighing up between doing it myself and getting it done
I still have to get a tranny stand for the trolley jack and a set of torx sockets for the crankshaft bolts so say another $200 so in total if Im doing it its going to be say $700 and another $100 for sundries ( might as well put in fresh oil )
I reckon doing myself will take about 6 hours simply cos Im learning as I go
Going by doing same job in my old 4runner getting the gearbox separated from the engine and getting it back in is the hardest job
I reckon 2 guys actually knowing what they are doing would maybe be 2 hours.

Thoughts?

 

[4 naving]

Id go for it Aussie. I payed around the 3k mark for my new exceed installed, so you will save a big wad of cash and know the job is done right.
Just remember to disconnect the batteries before you start.

 

[mike1303]

I had mine done in Fyshwick mate. My Mechanic is a top bloke. Send me a pm if you'd like more info.

I got a SMF conversion from 4terrain

 

[Aussie Frontier]

Well a bit of an update
I spoke with Excedy and they say not to install a HD clutch with the DM flywheel. As I already have a DM flywheel it looks like its a stock replacement for now .
Now bear in mind that I am still on the stock original clutch and have over 108000kms on that and a rough calc we reckon we have done over 1000 flat tows , anything from Aussie Legends , maybe 200kg ringing wet, to the Bandag Bullet at over 8 Tonne . So the stock clutch has done pretty well.
Now before you say WTF why buy another DM well at $100 brand spanking new I couldnt say no.

If not a rude question Mike do you know roughly how long it took and what was the labour content of the final price.

 

[Rumpig]

I had my D22 done recently and the workshop said 8 hrs. Labour was something like $1000.

 

[Aussie Frontier]

Holy Crap 8 hours,,,, I think I got the 4Runner done in less time than that (mmm ok so I cheated and had the exhaust off already lol ). Workshops are always so honest with the time lol

 

[mike1303]

My truck was in for two days.
And labour came out at around 1200 I think.
The clutch was that much again....

 

[Aussie Frontier]

OUCH
Looking very much like a weekender under the truck lol
So far I have spent
$100 for a new DM flywheel
$374 for a Excedy OEM replacement clutch kit with spigot bearing
$84 for a transmission thingy to go on the trolley jack cos i dont want to play silly buggers with scissor jacks n straps again lol
$72 for a set of Torx impact sockets to undo the flywheel bolts

$630 total spend

other than that will be new oil for the gearbox and hopefully thats everything. Fingers crossed

My 18 year old son even volunteered to help so i will be on my own after about 30 mins lol

 

[bobys]

I got 2 Clutches done on 2 different D22's at Gosford. The OEM one was about 1900 fitted and the HD one was about 1750 fitted. It sounded reasonable at the time. (Last year)

 

[wattysan]

After the Dual Mass Flywheel gave way on Fraser Island on New Years Eve this year and subsequent massive recovery journey behind the back of Landcruiser Tractor. New Solid Flywheel and Heavy Duty Clutch in Hervey Bay cost $2,300. Would have been cheaper in Brisbane with quotes around $1,900 but the best I could manage in the holiday season.

 

[Aussie Frontier]

Going by what others are saying those arent bad prices

When I was talking to the guys at Excedy they explained the limitations of the DMF hence I went with a stock clutch and not HD.Mine is a true street queen that sometimes hitches up the skirt and flat tows busted cars but always means that I go real easy on the clutch

 

[4 naving]

The d22 clutch is harder to get to as the torsion bars need to come out to get to the box.
You will be happier with the dm flywheel in yours Aussie as the single mass can cause vibration at certain revs. I think it will suit your application better.

 

[Aussie Frontier]

I have to admit that apart from the sensation of something clunking into place you dont feel anything through the DM. I have checked everything from mounts to uni joints and all good so the funny clunky sensation at time has to be the DM

Found this on ClubFrontier

1. Place the truck on jack stands. 20” and above of clearance from the bottom of step rails works best.

2. Disconnect Battery

3. Remove both front tires

4. Remove the tire wells on both sides. They are held on by plastic push pins, and one screw that also holds the mud flap.

5. Remove The Heat shield on both headers. There are 3 bolts that hold it on the manifold. Mine were so corroded that I had to use my air hammer to remove. I then threw it in the trash.

6. Remove the 3 nuts holding the cat to the headers. The top nut you can get to underneath the car, but the other two are facing towards the front of the car. A couple of long extensions with swivels and you should be able to get them off. You might have to heat them with a torch and spray them down with PB break. Also some other guys here were able to just unbolt the headers and take it out in one piece. I wasn’t going to chance it since the corrosion was so bad.

7. unplug all 4- 02 censors , and remove the brackets. The lower brackets are on the transmission and the upper two are located on the engine block.

8. Remove the bolts connecting the wye pie to the resonator. Unbolt the two exhaust brackets located right after the wye pipe. There are some grounding straps on the exhaust , you can take them off great if not just cut them. Pull the exhaust out of the truck and the cat/resonators in one piece.

9. Remove the crank angle sensor located on the passenger side.

10. Remove the starter cover plate, and then the starter. There are two bolts that hold the starter. one facing the front the other facing the rear.

11. Drain the oil in the transfer case and transmission

12. Remove the clutch solenoid.

13. Mark the front and rear drive shafts position with the axles and remove.

14. Unscrew the gear knob, remove the cup holder and the bolts holding down front cover. Once that’s out of the way, remove the boot cover plate and the 3 screws holding down shifter plate. The shifter comes right out and also remove the big spring. Place a rag in the hole so no dirt gets in.

15. Place a jack under the transfer case and start removing the cross beam. and remove the 3 bolts holding the transmission to the cross beam and remove. You might need to use a crow bar to get it out , mine was a real pain.

16. Setup your transmission jack under ( I used a motorcycle jack, it worked but a pain) and secure. Once that done you can remove the jack holding the transfer case.

17. Slowly lower the transmission, disconnect all plugs, hoses and remove the wiring harness off the transmission & move them to the side.

18. Lower the transmission some more until your able to see the top 4 bolts from behind transmission. Get some long 1/2in extensions,swivels and a breaker bar.

19. Remove the rest of the bell housing bolts and the small plate located in front of the bell housing .

20. Pull and wiggle it side to side. while changing the angle on the tranny jack. You might have to use a crowbar one it gets cracked open.

21. One the tranny is out, remove the small bolts holding the clutch pressure plate off .

22. Now if your going to change the flywheel its. held on by T55 bolts, if not you can still change the pilot pushing really easy. Grab some paper and water, find a bolt that fits inside the bushing some what snug. Fill the hole with wet paper and bang it down with the bolt and a dead blow hammer. Keep on repeating this step and eventually the bushing will start to come out due to the hydraulic force. Grab a needle nose pliers and pull all the paper out. Put a light coating of motor oil in the hole and slowly tap the new bushing in with a mallet.

23. Grab your new clutch and center tool. Install the clutch & centering tool in the direction marked on the clutch. Place the new pressure plate on the fly wheel and follow a random tightening pattern. The service manual that you can get free online will have an illustration on tightening pattern.

24. Remove the arm and throw-out bearing assembly. Bring the assembly to a machine shop to have new bearing pressed in.

25. Grease the throw out bearing arm pivot points and the shaft as show in the online manual.

26. Now the fun part installation! grab two of your friends, have one help pivot and wiggle the transmission into place, while the other pivots the motor. You might have to put a socket on the front balancer pully to rotate the engine so the splines can lineup.

27. Once you get it in and the guide pins are all lineup begin tightening the bell house bolts , to seat the transmission to the motor.

28. Just repeat the rest of the sets backwards and you should be golden.. Also before you install the gear shifter , fill your transmission that way. It’s much easier will less mess.


Now this is for a 4x4 but apart from the front drive shaft its pretty much the same

 

[Rumpig]

Reads like more than a couple of hours.
When i did a clutch in my HZ Kingswood yonks ago, i put the throw out bearing in the wrong way, because i was in a mates workshop ( hoist, rattle gun ) we had the gearbox out and back in, in 20 minutes. Won't do that on a 4x4.
Pack the Esky.

 

[Aussie Frontier]

We used to do the tranny in my racecar in mear minutes but then we could take the complete front clip off lol
The only real issue as I see it is the exhaust cos if those bolts are seized I will be in trouble.
Other than that there are a heap of small jobs like disconnecting sensors etc
Getting at the top bellhousing bolts is always a pain but can be done if careful as per the above intructions.
Changing the actual clutch only takes minutes as its just a bolt off bolt on job. Doing the throw out bearing mmmmm still thinking bout that one lol.I got most tools but not a press

 

[Aussie Frontier]

Ok I have all the bits sorted
Genuine exhaust gaskets and seals $80
Flywheel ( Genuine Nissan Dm) $100
Excedy Clutch Kit ( Clutch Plate , Pressure Plate Spigot bush and thrust race bearing) $347
Clutch Alignment tool $7
Gearbox cradle for trolley jack $84
Makita Brushless 1/2" drive impact wrench with 3 Amp battery $330

Total spend $974

But I will be able to use the tools again so really the clutch swap out will cost me $527 so happy enough with that

 

[vicszd]

me too

Hello everyone and marry Christmas to all ! Great site- I love it ! I cant wait to do a muster ! ok clutch ............................

Yup after 250'000 klm's mine has a shudder- yup you read it right !
I have looked at the bolts and I'd bet a dollar it's the original one ! Could this be right- I have never towed and the owner before me never did- It's not to bad going forward but in reverse it's worse ! And i'm betting it's the rear main letting go that's done it too- I don't know for sure but I did find a bit of oil at the back of the block/bell housing when I fitted the front elocker.. all sump bolts are tight and ive just had injectors and timing kit put in it so it's not a leaky rocker cove gasket!

Ok so I start looking at clutches and prices and can find the exedy h/d safari ones from as low as $440 to over $900.. how can this be I think so I write to exedy and ask them what is the rrp for these clutches - he's answer , umm we don't really have a recomended.retail.price ! Huh wtf !

So I ask him about the ones for under $500 on evilbay and he tells me to use only exedy dealers !
Does anyone know if these clutches on ebay are rejects in some way? He did tell me there are numbers on the box to identify them - I was going to write to the seller on ebay and ask them for these numbers off the kit I will be purchasing and getting back to him to check the batch numbers etc! That's all I can think of doing !

I did get a price of an exedy dealer/mechanic in Cranbourne who told me he can do one for $770 and about the same to fit so $1500 would cover it !
not a bad quote I thought But.....

I don't trust mechanics ! not any more ! I am yet to find one of my father calibre (honest and thorough) that's for sure ! Even close friends/mechanics have screwed me before and I'm over it - even if it takes me a week I'd rather fit it myself !

So guy's any suggestions on what to do ? I have also come across the "extreme" brand ones that are supposedly made here in oz- any insight to this brand ?

I'm planning to go around oz next year so I have done a ***** load of prep work on her and want it as right as I can get it before I set off -so any info is good info to me !
The turbo is the original one also so I've ordered a forefront one for that piece of mind ! The diffs have been serviced and all I have left to do is buy a long range tank (any recommendations) buy clutch and fit and fit turbo and she's all done.......hopefully

 

[vicszd]

Ok I have all the bits sorted
Genuine exhaust gaskets and seals $80
Flywheel ( Genuine Nissan Dm) $100
Excedy Clutch Kit ( Clutch Plate , Pressure Plate Spigot bush and thrust race bearing) $347
Clutch Alignment tool $7
Gearbox cradle for trolley jack $84
Makita Brushless 1/2" drive impact wrench with 3 Amp battery $330

Total spend $974

But I will be able to use the tools again so really the clutch swap out will cost me $527 so happy enough with that

Howdy fella ! shame your not in Vic "Au,frontier" or I would hire your cradle off you