Throttle Issue with 2013 D22

[tweak'e]

block off egr would be the first thing.

air and fuel filters would be the firs thing. reset the fuel data and pay to do a TPS learn as well.

the MAF cleaner is a good idea.
if possible put a reader on and see what the maf is reading as you drive. could well be a failing maf.
the maf controls all the fueling.
just do some basic checks like check there is no leaks from intake pipes and IC. MAF only works well if there is no leaks after the turbo.

check temp sensor connections, nothing corroded.

failing all that start looking at fuel system.

 

[Navig8tor]

thanks tweak'e

I've already blocked the erg (haven't installed a catch can as yet).

Air and fuel filters have been checked and replaced whilst it was in the shop last week.

How do I reset the fuel data? I assume this is a matter of disconnecting the battery?

Whilst I was looking over it before I disconnected and re-connected the MAF sensor, then took it for a drive and it didn't play up. Perhaps it may have been something super simple like disconnecting and reconnecting it???

 

[happy john]

Sounds like your slowly getting there, re the ECU reset disconnect the battery then apply a load such as turn on the lights to drain any voltage remaining to the ECU. Make sure you have the radio security codes beforehand. I wonder if you got a shitty batch of fuel?.

 

[Navig8tor]

Thanks happy_john

I just disconnected the battery and drained all remaining volte to the eco, then re-connected the battery.

I took it for a drive and it didn't seem to have any issues.

I'll monitor it again in the morning when I go to work to see if it does anything.

 

[tweak'e]

no, theres a set procedure in the manual for it. it should be posted on here somewhere.
modern ecu's store data fairly well even after power is removed.

 

[tweak'e]

How to Set Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic Results)
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the MI starts
blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
ECM has entered to Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic results).


How to Erase Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic Results)
1. Set ECM in Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic results). Refer to “How to Set Diagnostic Test Mode II
(Self-diagnostic Results)”.
2. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
The emission-related diagnostic information has been erased from the backup memory in the ECM.
3. Fully release the accelerator pedal, and confirm the DTC 0000 is displayed.

 

[Navig8tor]

Thanks for this tweak'e

Where will the MI blink? Does this blink on the dash somewhere?

Where will the DTC0000 be displayed ??

 

[bods]

Mi is the little picture of the engine on the dash. Malfunction indicator light.. this light will blink to show code numbers. What it blinks for code 0000 I'm not sure though...

 

[Navig8tor]

Ok so i'm literally in the car as I've typed this.

The MI symbol is flashing and its sequence is;

1 x 10 flashes at a slow rate
3 x 10 flashes at a fast rate

and this process is just repeating

Doing a little more looking into the codes I'm thinking this code is 0103 which if I'm correct it's a MAF Sensor/Circuit?

 

[bods]

Could be right. I'd do the reset and check it again after the next time you drive it and see if it is all clear...

 

[tweak'e]

Ok so i'm literally in the car as I've typed this.

The MI symbol is flashing and its sequence is;

3 x 10 flashes at a quick rate
1 x 10 flashes at a slow rate

and this process is just repeating

Doing a little more looking into the codes I'm thinking this code is 0103 which if I'm correct it's a MAF Sensor/Circuit?

that looks more like 0000 which is no error found.

then hold the throttle down for more than 10 seconds and it should be clear.

 

[Navig8tor]

my apologies, I got the sequence mixed up as I started from scratch to get it right.

So the correct sequence is;

1 x 10 flashes at a slow rate
3 x 10 flashes at a fast rate

I've also tried the re-set steps and the flashing won't clear.

 

[Navig8tor]

Okie I really need your help

Driving to the train station my issue has gotten worse. The car's made a huge shunt and then all of a sudden not boost pressure at all.
You can hear the turbo spooling but it's going nowhere, the thing struggled to even get to 70kms and keep that speed lettlelone go any faster beyond that.

Is it a wastegate issue?

 

[bods]

Is the engine light on? Pop the bonnet and have a look around. If it is a wastegate issue, have a look at the arm that is on the top of the turbo and make sure it is tight

 

[Navig8tor]

hey bods

When this happened, no the engine light didn't come on.

I've also checked the wastegate arm both yesterday and again this morning and it was nice and tight.

 

[bods]

It could be a split or the pipe from the compressor housing to the wastegate diaphragm may have come off. It is pretty hard to see, but unless you have split an intercooler hose it would be something to check. Did it pump out a heap of smoke when it happened?

 

[Navig8tor]

No mate, not white smoke out the back.

Another mate of mine is thinking it might be the compressor wheel as you can still hear it spool but it's as if boost is not being released.

 

[bods]

Nah I wouldn't expect to see white smoke. A real big heap of black smoke if you have lost boost. If you had no smoke at all it will be a fuel system problem

 

[Navig8tor]

The turbo is still spooling but it's as if that boost pressure isn't being released.

After the car shunted it then struggled a little to make it to 70kms/hr and then keeping that speed. Just a complete loss of power.

 

[bods]

You wouldn't usually hear any turbo sound at all if the compressor wheel has collapsed. You would also get a heap of smoke because the computer is injecting enough fuel for a certaib amount of air which it is no longer getting. If you can't hear any massive boost leaks from the turbo or intercooler or hoses then it is time to look at the fuel system. Being a 2013 I'd be on the phone to nissan about getting it in for diagnosis.