The D.I.Y. ZD30 remap thread.

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To know what the maps are it helps to read the d22 manual so you know how things work, things like the description of the egr and what the MAP range is give you an idea of what the axis may be. Boost pressure is in mbar, the throttle is volts, injection quantity is mm3, temperature is in kelvin. There's plenty of maps I don't know but there probably not ones I need to change so it's not stopping me from trying different things, it's all about making one change at a time and then testing it.
 

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I haven't being posting much because I assume anyone interested has got a copy of winols and is learning how to use it. It does take a while to get the hang of it, so if you've got any questions, fire away, i'll do my best to answer them.
I've got rid of the smoke down low by changing the drivers wish but still have the fuel cut once I go past 18 psi, it's starting to give me the ***** but without an instruction manual it's just trial and error.
 
I remeber posts about the d22 zd30 engine going into limp mode when boost is pushed above 18psi and no one could work out why, I think most peoples concensus was it was a safety feature to stop the engine ever over boosting. Is this the fuel cut past 18 psi you speak of?

I have read over all the info and first I think ill need to buy an ecu and see of I can find a local guy to socket it. I know a local guy that does wfi dyno tuning and it a pc wizard, so he is my best bet. Then I may look at getting some chips and a reader/writer. Ideally though rumpig id rather you work it out and then I could buy the written chips off you for a price of your choosing, assuning you figure out how to make the zd30 safely more responsive down low and/or across the board.
 
Hi Shorty,
Your right, it is overboost protection and most ecus have a Singe Value Boost Limiter but not all of them. which means it must be a map. There's quite a few 2D and 3D boost maps so I just have to keep working thru them as there's bugger all info on our car to guide me.
I realise not everyone will enjoy the technical aspect of remapping so I will be offering to burn a set of chips for anyone that doesn't want to buy a chip burner, only to use it once, they'll just need to get an ecu socketed themselves. I've found the best gains are as easy as turning off the egr and modifying the drivers wish, I just need someone with a stock engine with EGT and boost gauges to be a guinea pig as my car is far from stock and wouldn't be a good test bed.
 
Have you worked out how to remove the torque limiters in the main file sequence? Ive been told this really opens up TD engines. The way it works: you are in 2nd gear and boost has just come on, you are calling for 80 - 90% of WOT (wide open throttle), the ECU will limit the amount of fuel to protect the engine. It is gear, throttle and rpm dependant
 
How much are the chip reader writers to buy? I can try and hit this efi tuning bloke up and see if he has any ideas for the boost limiting. Would it help contacting nissan technical? Or probs get some muppet who knows nothong
 
Have you worked out how to remove the torque limiters in the main file sequence? Ive been told this really opens up TD engines. The way it works: you are in 2nd gear and boost has just come on, you are calling for 80 - 90% of WOT (wide open throttle), the ECU will limit the amount of fuel to protect the engine. It is gear, throttle and rpm dependant

The ZD30 ecu seems pretty simple (as far as ecus go) and doesn't seem to have any gear limiters or a speed limiter. Most of the euro cars torque limiters are atmospheric pressure verses rpm, but I think ours might use requested injection quantity as a proxy for engine load, verses rpm- not sure yet. There's plenty of 2D limiters as well.
 

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How much are the chip reader writers to buy? I can try and hit this efi tuning bloke up and see if he has any ideas for the boost limiting. Would it help contacting nissan technical? Or probs get some muppet who knows nothong

The chip burners are around $120, chips something like $5 each. Nissan wouldn't help with something like this, they'd more likely take legal action to stop it if anything. Everything we need to know you'd find on Ecuconnections it's all just a matter of studying cars that are similar to ours as there's no info on any diesel nissans. The E46 320D bemmers run a vp44 and are direct injection so are similar but they run a vnt and MAF so have differences. The tuning guides I posted in a earlier link only cover the very basics, there's heaps more to learn, so it will take time to come up with a good tune.
 
Hi rumpig i like where your going with this. I have read a majority of the post seems like a good way to get more power out of the little zd30. If i come across another ecu i might give it a go. Soldering isnt an issue as im an electrician with engineering.
 
If you want some sockets and blank chips PM me your address and I can send some out. Chips can be erased and rewritten so you only need two, if you are going to try socketing yourself you might want more than two sockets. I'll start posting on all the different maps soon, i'll turn the boost down on my car and come up with a basic starter tune.
 
Im keen to have a crack but scared of destroying my ute haha.

With a boost and EGT gauge nothing should go wrong. If you make a mistake with writing the chip all that happens is the glow plug light stays on and the car turns over but won't start. I've tried at least 150 different changes without anything going wrong, just make sure to keep the original ecu as backup.
 
With a boost and EGT gauge nothing should go wrong. If you make a mistake with writing the chip all that happens is the glow plug light stays on and the car turns over but won't start. I've tried at least 150 different changes without anything going wrong, just make sure to keep the original ecu as backup.
Ah cool so there is always an inherent safety net there. I have neither gauge but plan to get them in the future and add a manual boost controller. My only other concern is upping the boost with no intercooler and stock turbo. Turbo looks in good nick, ie impellor blades are all good and it spins well and has no whine to it when boosting, so it should be okay and ill keep and eye on it and replace with a forefront turbo if it starts to whine as an intercooler is not an option for me with my 80 series airbox
 
Ah cool so there is always an inherent safety net there. I have neither gauge but plan to get them in the future and add a manual boost controller. My only other concern is upping the boost with no intercooler and stock turbo. Turbo looks in good nick, ie impellor blades are all good and it spins well and has no whine to it when boosting, so it should be okay and ill keep and eye on it and replace with a forefront turbo if it starts to whine as an intercooler is not an option for me with my 80 series airbox

Stock turbo should be o.k to 16 psi but without an intercooler intake temps go up significantly which effects exhaust temps to. Water injection is the next best option.
 
Ah yeah im really not looking to spend a whole lot more cash on the car so id prefer not to intercool or do water/meth injection.

I really just wanted to increase the acceleration down low which is why I was trying to find a throttle controller, then I thought this may be the best bet plus I can modify some other little things at the same time. Not looking to tune the crap out of the car and push it to its absolute limits
 
From driving around with ecutalk plugged into the laptop, at cruising speed your normally on 1.0 - 1.2 volt on the throttle position sensor, give it a bit to overtake and you see 2.5 - 3.0. If you have a look at this image you can see that the drivers wish is pretty flat in that area which is why we all complain about the throttle response. Changing the drivers wish and turning off the EGR improves response dramatically. Blocking the EGR by itself helps, but the ecu doesn't know this has been done so it still pulls fuel to compensate for the exhaust gas being added, turning it off in the ecu stops it pulling fuel altogether. Doing this isn't a performance remap, it's how the Nav should have been from the factory! The second pic is the drivers wish I'm currently using.
 

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