Hey all, when driving longer distances or just hitting the open roads and can quite comfortably sit around 120km/hr, when the rev gauge hits the 3000rpm and above the temp gauge rises significantly. Has anyone else had this issue and resolved it? when heats up i drop back to below 3000rpm sitting around 110- 115 km/hr and temp gauge drops to normal temp ranges. Any feedback would be appreciated
Str 2006 3ltr D22 temp issues?
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04SilverSTR
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id be looking at the mechanical fan to start with, i may be worn and not working proply, hows you radiator look? clean or full of stick and mud? also got any lights on the front ?
bryan
bryan
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at those speeds it shouldn't need the fan.
what accessories are on the car? winch? bar? lights?
what accessories are on the car? winch? bar? lights?
Thanks for the replies. At the moment i have 2 spotties that sit in the middle smack bang in front of the radiator so that could be the issue! the other the other outcomes mentioned may also be worth a go might start with the chemical coolant flush.
D
Dave
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Genuine radiator or some piece of shit aftermarket item ?
My temp gauge never moves once up to temp. Even at 150km/h. Haha.
My temp gauge never moves once up to temp. Even at 150km/h. Haha.
ive had the same problem on a trip up to exmouth.
driving at around 95-100 towing a boat. starting hitting the top of the guage and just when its about to go off the top of the normal bracket (as its still very hot but theres extra past the bracket) it would drop rapidly.
without slowing down or changing any driving habits it would cool itself down. its worth noting that before my big trip (around 16 hours) i did a complete service including dropping and replacing the coolant with a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water. no obvious cracks or leaks in the radiator or any of the hoses.
I think either the temp before the thermostat opens is either set high by default or i have a sticky / faulty thermostat. il have a look at getting it replaced and let you know
when not towing its fine, drove 5 hours straight at 110 on a 35 degree day with aircon on, and the gauge barely moved. Im also getting a water level gauge put in for pre-caution
driving at around 95-100 towing a boat. starting hitting the top of the guage and just when its about to go off the top of the normal bracket (as its still very hot but theres extra past the bracket) it would drop rapidly.
without slowing down or changing any driving habits it would cool itself down. its worth noting that before my big trip (around 16 hours) i did a complete service including dropping and replacing the coolant with a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water. no obvious cracks or leaks in the radiator or any of the hoses.
I think either the temp before the thermostat opens is either set high by default or i have a sticky / faulty thermostat. il have a look at getting it replaced and let you know
when not towing its fine, drove 5 hours straight at 110 on a 35 degree day with aircon on, and the gauge barely moved. Im also getting a water level gauge put in for pre-caution
Hi all, I'm having a pretty similar problem with my 04 D22. Normally the temp gauge sits on about half way, sitting on 115km however last couple times I've been on a decent drive, the temp creeps to about 2/3.
I didn't think this was a problem, however the air con is cutting out once it hits about 1mm above half way.
I've just flushed the radiator and replaced the thermostat, no change!
Thinking it may be the radiator fan? I saw a post someone saying the check the resistance spinning the fan by hand once the engine is hot. I can feel increased resistance, but it's not hard??
Any suggestions would be appreciated!
I didn't think this was a problem, however the air con is cutting out once it hits about 1mm above half way.
I've just flushed the radiator and replaced the thermostat, no change!
Thinking it may be the radiator fan? I saw a post someone saying the check the resistance spinning the fan by hand once the engine is hot. I can feel increased resistance, but it's not hard??
Any suggestions would be appreciated!
At 115 there's plenty of airflow so it won't be the fan, more likely grass and the like caught between the aircon condenser and radiator, or spotties and winch reducing airflow. If your aircon cuts out the engine temp is to high so be careful or you'll cook it, the factory gauges are no where near accurate.
Hmmm..... more investigations this weekend! I did blow out some grass seeds with the compressor and hose.... might get the pressure cleaner onto it and see if I can get much more out! Burped the radiator again for good measure and seemed to get a small amount of air from the cooling system, so hopefully that helped!
nicko
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Happened to me towing a the boat.
Took the radiator out.
In between the radiator and the front fins in front of the radiator was completely caked in dirt dust dead bird and leaves. Stupid design. Anything that gets in there can't escape cos there's foam at the bottom.
I wouldn't pressure wash the radiator that would destroy it. Air compressor from a distance and water is fine. Took it to outback 4wd for a diagnoses as to why its running hot and loosing power above 80kmh, they didn't even pick up on the shit in between the radiator. They just said the radiator is ****ed.
Took the radiator out.
In between the radiator and the front fins in front of the radiator was completely caked in dirt dust dead bird and leaves. Stupid design. Anything that gets in there can't escape cos there's foam at the bottom.
I wouldn't pressure wash the radiator that would destroy it. Air compressor from a distance and water is fine. Took it to outback 4wd for a diagnoses as to why its running hot and loosing power above 80kmh, they didn't even pick up on the shit in between the radiator. They just said the radiator is ****ed.
FYI managed to solve the problem by replacing the radiator cap
Was towing a full furniture trailor and had a ton in the tray (literally one metric ton haha) at 80kph in 4th. Temp gradually rose so I pulled over when it hit the top of the bracket and let it cool for 10 minutes. Its also worth noting the expansion tank was full to the brim and boiling (again literally).
Upon pulling back out onto the highway the temp went from normal (a bit less than halfway between H and C) to the top of the gauge in 1km. So I pulled over and crawled the car at 40kph back the way i came into some shade.
After letting the car cool down enough I took the radiator cap off and would have put around 7 or so litres in. Again the overfill was full and boiling.
the reason it was the radiator cap diverts coolant to the overfill tank when the pressure is very high. Mine had lost some resistance and was diverting coolant at slightly lower pressures. Because the overfill doesnt return into the main cooling system it was effectively pulling small amounts of coolant out slowly until it was almost dry.
Because the coolant was being sucked out slowly it was fine for about an hour then (when it shat itself within one km) was ridiculously crap. It also explains why ive only ever had the problem towing big loads - because to build up enough pressure that the radiator cap failed the car has to get pretty bloody hot from a continuous high load.
Replaced the cap and drove non-stop for another 150+ kms with no problem (car still had to work really hard so was hot but not overheating).
For others out there most servos in woop woop sell radiator caps for $20 and they are fairly standard so if you get the same problem get your radiator as full as possible and try and get to one. If its not the cap you've only wasted 20 bucks
Was towing a full furniture trailor and had a ton in the tray (literally one metric ton haha) at 80kph in 4th. Temp gradually rose so I pulled over when it hit the top of the bracket and let it cool for 10 minutes. Its also worth noting the expansion tank was full to the brim and boiling (again literally).
Upon pulling back out onto the highway the temp went from normal (a bit less than halfway between H and C) to the top of the gauge in 1km. So I pulled over and crawled the car at 40kph back the way i came into some shade.
After letting the car cool down enough I took the radiator cap off and would have put around 7 or so litres in. Again the overfill was full and boiling.
the reason it was the radiator cap diverts coolant to the overfill tank when the pressure is very high. Mine had lost some resistance and was diverting coolant at slightly lower pressures. Because the overfill doesnt return into the main cooling system it was effectively pulling small amounts of coolant out slowly until it was almost dry.
Because the coolant was being sucked out slowly it was fine for about an hour then (when it shat itself within one km) was ridiculously crap. It also explains why ive only ever had the problem towing big loads - because to build up enough pressure that the radiator cap failed the car has to get pretty bloody hot from a continuous high load.
Replaced the cap and drove non-stop for another 150+ kms with no problem (car still had to work really hard so was hot but not overheating).
For others out there most servos in woop woop sell radiator caps for $20 and they are fairly standard so if you get the same problem get your radiator as full as possible and try and get to one. If its not the cap you've only wasted 20 bucks
Replaced the water pump as clutch fan is mounted to it, replaced thermostat, flushed radiator twice and still having this heating issue in the vehicle. only replacing the temp sender unit left then might have to look at moving spot lights mounted in front of radiator. As already mentioned i dont think this would cause but options are starting to get limited
I had exactly the same issue. Overheating towing and over 110Km/h. I replaced the radiator with a new one and problem gone! I took radiator to specialist and they said it was a common problem with the design. Both hoses on one side so doesn't completely cycle properly through the radiator so shit accumulates in the opposite side and blocks most of the surface area. so cant just flush the radiator to get rid of all the shit.
