Squealing noise goes away when clutch pressed

[Newnav100]

I’ve tried to find the source of this but can’t come up with an answer. It sounds like a pulley squeal and it’s their on idle out of gear but once I push the clutch in it goes away . I can hear it in gear when driving also. It’s a 2008 d22

 

[Horatius]

Thrust bearing?

 

[Newnav100]

Really bloody hope not.

 

[Horatius]

I know what you mean, a big job just to change a little bearing.

That's similar to how mine went though. Noticed a squeak while idling. It had completely collapsed, took it out in peices. If you lay under and have a listen you might get a better idea.

 

[Newnav100]

I know what you mean, a big job just to change a little bearing.

That's similar to how mine went though. Noticed a squeak while idling. It had completely collapsed, took it out in peices. If you lay under and have a listen you might get a better idea.

Do you know any way to tell for sure or Eliminate any other possibilities?

 

[Horatius]

Do you know any way to tell for sure or Eliminate any other possibilities?

You should be able to remove the rubber boot from the pivot arm and get a torch to have a look at the bearing itself. Might have to temporarily unbolt the slave cylinder while you do it, the rubber should slide off. Mine had basically fallen apart, when the clutch was pushed it squeezed it all back together which stopped it squeeking.

You could take the belts off the motor to make sure it isn't a pulley, if you can pinpoint the noise to the bell housing area, that's a good indication.

 

[Horatius]

ps. be careful if you undo slave cylinder to take the rubber boot off, as it's then easy for the pivot arm spring to unclip from the pivot while doing it. Usually they clip straight back on but best avoided if possible. Should be able to slide it back far enough to have a look without taking it right off anyway.

 

[Newnav100]

ps. be careful if you undo slave cylinder to take the rubber boot off, as it's then easy for the pivot arm spring to unclip from the pivot while doing it. Usually they clip straight back on but best avoided if possible. Should be able to slide it back far enough to have a look without taking it right off anyway.

Thanks for the help I’ll get in and have a look

 

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have you got enough free play on clutch pedal ,the thrust bearing may be making contact all the time

 

[Newnav100]

have you got enough free play on clutch pedal ,the thrust bearing may be making contact all the time

What does that mean?

 

[ericcs]

i'm betting it is the spigot bearing in the end of the crankshaft where the gearbox centre shaft goes in. don't confuse this with a thrust bearing, which compensates for crankshaft end float. The throw out bearing, which only turns when the pedal is pushed, so will make noise when the pedal is pushed, not go quiet!

 

[Newnav100]

i'm betting it is the spigot bearing in the end of the crankshaft where the gearbox centre shaft goes in. don't confuse this with a thrust bearing, which compensates for crankshaft end float. The throw out bearing, which only turns when the pedal is pushed, so will make noise when the pedal is pushed, not go quiet!

Well that would be even worse ! So either way if I can pinpoint the noise coming from the bell housing the gearbox is gotta come off and maybe all new clutch and bearings while I’m at it. F**k this car has been six months of constant hell and money ! I’m about ready to cut my losses and run

 

[Horatius]

i'm betting it is the spigot bearing in the end of the crankshaft where the gearbox centre shaft goes in. don't confuse this with a thrust bearing, which compensates for crankshaft end float. The throw out bearing, which only turns when the pedal is pushed, so will make noise when the pedal is pushed, not go quiet!

Mine squeaked/squeeled quite well when it went. The bearinghad parted company with the enclosure that is held in place by the fork. The bearing wasn't good either, but the only time it was quiet was when the clutch was in, pushing it all back together.

You could be right though. Have heard of it, but never actually known of a spigot bush to wear out in one of these (which doesn't mean much of course). Either way, there's something wrong in the clutch unfortunately.

 

[Horatius]

Well that would be even worse ! So either way if I can pinpoint the noise coming from the bell housing the gearbox is gotta come off and maybe all new clutch and bearings while I’m at it. F**k this car has been six months of constant hell and money ! I’m about ready to cut my losses and run

How many miles? Only that I brought a replacement clutch (and rear main) before I took the gearbox out (all for a thrust bearing), not sure I would have bothered. It was in quite good condition for 300k kms, think it would have lasted the lifetime of the car. Still an ordinary job either way though.

 

[Newnav100]

How many miles? Only that I brought a replacement clutch (and rear main) before I took the gearbox out (all for a thrust bearing), not sure I would have bothered. It was in quite good condition for 300k kms, think it would have lasted the lifetime of the car. Still an ordinary job either way though.

Clutch seems fine at 210,000. The long story is I bought it for 6 grand at auction . Went to drive it home started overheating . Was 150kms from home so kept stopping and topping up coolant and running the heater got it home. After checking everything it was either a cracked head or head gasket. Took the head off and rang around to get it resurfaced. Was told by every shop within 200kms don’t bother just get a new head. Got a brand new head and paid a mechanic to bolt it down and reset the timing . Took 3 weeks and they kept me in the dark . Rang me one day and said they had to pull the motor to reset the timing and reseal the plate . They had already done this when they told me. $1800 later towed it home got everything back together like turbo back on all hoses electrical connections intake and exhaust manifolds and new radiator as the last dipshit had thrown a heap of stop leak in it and blocked it( they also cut the centre of the thermostat out so I wouldn’t know it was overheating before buying) . So now it’s running but has no power. Go over everything before admitting defeat and taking it to another mechanic to try to find the problem. Found out eventually the new head didn’t come with the cam sensor peice that bolts onto the back of the cam. Took the peice of the old cam and gave it to them. They rang me and said it’s ready. Apparently they had to take the cam out to bolt the piece on( seems like ********) and said the timing was out two teeth and they had to readjust( seems like more ********). Rang the first mechanic who just said the timing was spot on when we gave it back, so I have no legal recourse. Anyway it’s all running fine now. I’ve replaced oil, oil filter , air filter, coolant , new cylinder head, new gaskets for everything, radiator, new belts, cleaned out intake and intercooler , emptied cat as there were chunks falling out, new brake rotors and pads, new Tyers , there’s probably more I can’t remember right now. So I’ve finally been driving it for about two weeks after 6 months of that **** and now I run into this. So I’m about done with thing. Sorry for the long rant

 

[Newnav100]

Clutch seems fine at 210,000. The long story is I bought it for 6 grand at auction . Went to drive it home started overheating . Was 150kms from home so kept stopping and topping up coolant and running the heater got it home. After checking everything it was either a cracked head or head gasket. Took the head off and rang around to get it resurfaced. Was told by every shop within 200kms don’t bother just get a new head. Got a brand new head and paid a mechanic to bolt it down and reset the timing . Took 3 weeks and they kept me in the dark . Rang me one day and said they had to pull the motor to reset the timing and reseal the plate . They had already done this when they told me. $1800 later towed it home got everything back together like turbo back on all hoses electrical connections intake and exhaust manifolds and new radiator as the last dipshit had thrown a heap of stop leak in it and blocked it( they also cut the centre of the thermostat out so I wouldn’t know it was overheating before buying) . So now it’s running but has no power. Go over everything before admitting defeat and taking it to another mechanic to try to find the problem. Found out eventually the new head didn’t come with the cam sensor peice that bolts onto the back of the cam. Took the peice of the old cam and gave it to them. They rang me and said it’s ready. Apparently they had to take the cam out to bolt the piece on( seems like ********) and said the timing was out two teeth and they had to readjust( seems like more ********). Rang the first mechanic who just said the timing was spot on when we gave it back, so I have no legal recourse. Anyway it’s all running fine now. I’ve replaced oil, oil filter , air filter, coolant , new cylinder head, new gaskets for everything, radiator, new belts, cleaned out intake and intercooler , emptied cat as there were chunks falling out, new brake rotors and pads, new Tyers , there’s probably more I can’t remember right now. So I’ve finally been driving it for about two weeks after 6 months of that **** and now I run into this. So I’m about done with thing. Sorry for the long rant

Edit. But yes the clutch is fine no slippage but if I’m gonna pull the gearbox wouldn’t it make sense to replace the clutch if I have to take the old one off anyway?

 

[ericcs]

the spigot bearing/bush is usually just a bronze sleeve in the cars I've worked on, and have just been dry, hence the squealing. either way, the box will have to come out!

 

[Been a while]

Edit. But yes the clutch is fine no slippage but if I’m gonna pull the gearbox wouldn’t it make sense to replace the clutch if I have to take the old one off anyway?

At 200+ks original clutch- yup!

New "pre soaked" spigot, machine F/W, new clutch ensemble, T/Bearing, slave and master seal kit, line, rear main and you should do the gearbag to tailshaft seal... check mounts! Job done! Lol j.k , it's a Navara! the jobs never done

Oh, buy a "gearbag cradle" for your trolley jack! Ebay have them... good luck.

 

[Newnav100]

At 200+ks original clutch- yup!

New "pre soaked" spigot, machine F/W, new clutch ensemble, T/Bearing, slave and master seal kit, line, rear main and you should do the gearbag to tailshaft seal... check mounts! Job done! Lol j.k , it's a Navara! the jobs never done

Oh, buy a "gearbag cradle" for your trolley jack! Ebay have them... good luck.

In your opinion, with the kms and having spent around $13000 already would you bother? I’m seriously tossing up just getting rid of it and taking the loss . I don’t have the time or funds to keep pouring money into a car I’ve barely driven.

 

[Horatius]

Edit. But yes the clutch is fine no slippage but if I’m gonna pull the gearbox wouldn’t it make sense to replace the clutch if I have to take the old one off anyway?

The common wisdom would be "yes" change everything while it's apart. Though I'm confident the clutch on mine would have been fine for the life of the car, only changed it because I had one ready to go. Are you keeping it?